deanshark

Well, I decided It's time to do the motor mounts. (on my 93) (within a few weeks anyway) After reading more threads about how my car shakes at idle, and fixing other things that needed to be done anyway, I've come to the conclusion that my motor mounts have to be toast. Due to finances is why they haven't been done yet, and not a part you'd want to go aftermarket on. I got my hands on some OEM cheaper then normal and should have them this week.
I've read alot of threads on how to change them but they're old (like from 07-09) and some don't have pics anymore.
Just wondering two things. Has anyone come up with an easy way to get the drivers side mount off? And, is there anything else I should be looking to change while I'm crawled up underneath with the engine jacked up a bit? It's gonna be bad enough getting under there with my disability I don't want to have to go back in a couple months from now.
Any suggestions are appreciated.

paulo57509

After reading how difficult it is to replace the engine mounts, I've wondered if loosening/removing the mount fasteners and then lifting one side of the engine at a time to replace that side's mount. This was the way I used to do it back in the day.

deanshark

I've done plenty of dogbone mounts and alot of old school mounts, but never any mounts this hard. I read one thread where "billydpowe" said to leave the passenger mount out while you change the drivers side, then go back to passenger. All have agreed that the drivers side upper nut is the worst. Just hoping there's an easier way that someone figured out. No matter what, its gonna take me a while to do everything.

bradland

It's been so long since I've owned an early 90's model. Weren't they built with the same design, basically, as the later 400's? The engine cradle is fairly easy to drop out and remove if you have the engine supported from above.
I know it sounds like a lot of work but I'd rather spend all day turning a wrench than all day busting knuckles. Here's a pic from a member on the 430 side who dropped the crossmember during an oil pump replacement.

deanshark

Thanks brad, that is an amazing picture and a good opinion on how to do it but I'm trying to take off as little as I have to. But if I did it that way I'd want to change out too many parts such as inner, outer tierods, ball joints, control arms, and all the bushings. Not financially feasible at this time. Plus, I don't want to take a chance on breaking something else by removing something that doesn't have to be removed. Only extra I plan on doing, unless I come across something, is the front brakes cuz the wheels will be off, and maybe the lower ball joints if needed. (we all know what a bad design those are)
Oh, and I don't mind bustin a knuckle or two along the way, it's all part of the job.

I will check all this out when I get under there to see if this way is easier. I appreciate the thought, thanks.

bradland

I get it Dean it's a lot to consider. Just the engine support itself would set you back about $90. I haven't tackled a motor mount job yet so I'm surmising but I do know jobs like these can often be a forest for the trees situation.
On the 430 side when there's a discussion re rear strut replacement someone always chimes in to warn the back seat has to come out first as if that's a deal breaker to a DIYer.
I've replaced the rear struts on my 430. Removing the rear seat is BY FAR the easiest part of that job...

Losiracer2

You should be able to get the 17mm nut off with a regular box end wrench. Remove the pass side first, then let it drop that side and then it gives more room to get the driver side and around the steering box side. I didn't have to remove the subframe, just be careful of the heater control valve (I have a 1999, not sure if earlier ones do also) and also be weary of the power steering reservoir hoses, mine both broke and had to be replaced.

Peacebay

The motor mount replacement on my 99 was a pretty crappy job but not impossible. Keep close track of the heater core valve at near the firewall. I jacked my engine up too much and ended up cracking it.

ankurdave

I replaced my engine mounts in 2019. As others have said, it was not fun but very worthwhile.

• I disconnected the heater core valve from the firewall and jacked up the engine as far as I could, using a block of wood under the oil pan.
• This caused my power steering return line to leak. It was easy to replace with some generic
  Gates 3/8" hose
  Gates 3/8" hose
  .
• I removed the passenger side mount first and reinstalled it last.
• I used a 17mm stubby wrench for the upper nuts, chaining it with another wrench for leverage.
• When reinstalling the passenger side mount, I had to loosen the 2 crossmember bolts on the passenger side to gain a little extra room so I could fit the new mount into place.

deanshark

Thanks everyone. The heater valve was on my mind already. I think it's just a problem on the 2nd gen but I will keep an eye on it. I hope this isn't too bad of a job cuz I'm not as young, or in shape, like I used to be. It can't be the worst job I've done on an LS400, Not like the heater core on my old 93.
I'll make sure I have some extra hose. I might as well change it, if it's out in the open, anyway. Thanks again.

deanshark

I got the mounts yesterday, I can't wait to get them on but it will still be a couple weeks from now. I'm getting excited to get rid of this shake, so it can feel like a Lexus should.

Question on the 17mm nut on upper drivers side; I've been reading alot about loosening it with a long box end wrench with the second wrench for leverage, then switching to a stubby 17mm and still only be able to turn it a tiny bit before repositioning it.

To anyone who's done these; Can I use a stubby ratcheting wrench or is there enough room for a regular ratcheting wrench with a swivel head? I just want to make sure I have all the correct tools before I start just so I don't have to call someone for a ride to the parts store to buy one wrench.

ankurdave

Others may know better, but to my recollection, the main constraint was space above the nut.

• There wasn’t enough space for a socket wrench. I had a Harbor Freight “T-Bar With Flexible Ratchet“ socket wrench but it didn’t fit.
• A flex-head wrench of normal length might have worked, but I didn’t have one.
• Once the nut was loose, it was pretty easy to remove it the rest of the way by hand.

Jake07

[QUOTE=deanshark;11371062].

To anyone who's done these; Can I use a stubby ratcheting wrench or is there enough room for a regular ratcheting wrench with a swivel head?

When I was doing mine, that's exactly what I was wishing I had. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

I'm very inexperienced with stuff like this, so it was pretty rough for me. Took me 2 days lol. Also jacking up the motor was the most frightening thing for me cause I needed more room but felt like I had already jacked it up a bunch.

Unfortunately I went against the teachings of the Lexus forum masters and went the cheap route and got non oem parts. I can still feel a very slight vibration in the shifter ****; not sure if it's because of that or something else. If anyone knows that would be appreciated. (Transmission mount has been replaced too)

Anyways, good luck on the motor mounts!!

paulo57509

Those GearWrench type of wrenches are useful but there needs to be clearance for the large heads.

Is there room for an offset or obstruction type wrench?


Top - Offset
Bottom - Obstruction

Losiracer2

Yeah you won't have a lot of room for a normal 3/8th drive ratchet and socket to fit atop the nut, only a box wrench will work. I did use a 17mm and a smaller 14mm added on for extra leverage to break that nut free from 20 yrs ago, mainly because my car was from Ohio so it had some corrosion to overcome. But after its free a ratcheting 17mm box wrench with flex head would work.

If you have a flex head 17mm ratcheting wrench, I think that would be ideal, as it would be low clearance and have a ratcheting to speed up the process to get that nut off much more quickly. I just used a 17mm box wrench since that's all I had.