I have a 90 ls400 275k miles, i drove it 20 miles to work just fine and when i left stopping at a stop sign the rear end of the car had some loud thuds as it jolted to a stop and my rear right wheel was locked but if i gassed it my rear left wheel was still spinning.
Reverse worked fine and temporarily fixed the issue so i drove it to a gas station where my rear right wheel completely locked up again so i reversed it into a parking spot, i checked the brake lines they looked fine but old(maybe fluid isn’t recycling back to abs?) but some homeless guy started pressing me so i left my car in a bad part of town and can’t inspect it any help is much appreciated

 

Sounds to me like your Emergency brake is locking up. The hardware (springs) gets rusted and sometimes will fall apart which, in your case, sounds like it's activating the E-brake. When going in reverse it will move the broken spring so you can move the car a little, til it jams again. I'm not guaranteeing that's the problem but is what it sounds like.
I had a very similiar issue with my old 93. Had the clunks and everything, but I was able to drive mine although very loudly. I eventually changed the E-brake shoes and hardware and it was fine after that.

 

That sounds like a great place to start, towing is almost $250 since it’s far and would need a flatbed, might be a dumb question but if my e brake is the issue could i cut the cable just to get it home? I have noticed a small vibration and my idle has been very slow (tachometer doesn’t work) and i was unable to find the reason it was driving poorly but could disconnecting that cable get me home?

 

I would not cut the cable. They can be costly to replace. See if you can remove the drum/rotor to remove any broken/damaged parts. If not, you’ll have to call for a tow. Another option could be to have a mobile mechanic meet you at the car.

 

No, don't cut the cable. That just gives more opportunity for more problems in the future. I know your thinking though, in my younger years I might have done that just to get home.

Actually, I've done alot worse then that "just to get home". I never wanted to waste money on a tow truck either. I once drove 63 miles with 2 pairs of vice grips, a screw driver, and a chain holding my front end together after a ball joint snapped. Oh, the stupid things we did when we were young. (gotta use what ya got available)

If I was you I'd pull off the tire, remove the caliper, and pull the rotor off to get rid of whatever broke inside. If that's even what the problem is. Or, get AAA and have it towed back to your house so you can work on it where you're comfortable and not in such a rush.

 

Towing while it can be $ is a safer choice. If you don't have AAA or other roadside assistance program is worth it to get the tow service alone. On our AAA the Classic is 7 miles though the tow truck drivers have driven my cars up to 15 without any added costs. Tip the driver a $20 or so. Still less than paying an out of pocket and these memberships have other benefits that make them worthwhile. I had the Plus which is 200 miles but since covid we don't travel. Most my runs are local that I'm not far from home or service shops, well within the 7 miles coverage of the basic membership $54.

 

i have roadside assistance but it will only cover $100 tow so my buddy’s gonna tow it for me, what all should be replaced if the e brake is the issue? i think leaving my e brake engaged during freezing temps and snow is what did it

 

the shoes and hardware for the E-brake
https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/
EDIT; https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ware+kit,10289

Just showing what you would need. Can be cheaper elsewhere without shipping, if you have a very tight budget.


And seeing how the rear brake pads and rotors would be off ya might think about changing those also if they need it. If not, just lightly sand the rotors to get the dust off.

When I did my E-brake I had a hard time on the passenger side with removing one pin in the hardware to where I had to remove the speed sensor behind the dust plate so I could get it out to replace it.

 

That link goes to your cart only. For everyone else, it will go to their cart and whatever they put in it. Post a screen shot if you can.

 

OOOps. wasn't thinking, thnx.
Link changed.

 

awesome thanks for all the help, for some reason when i picked my car up my brakes were very soft but my brake lines are fine and fluid is full so i guess it’s just time for a full brake overhaul…

 

Fluid is full, but is the fluid healthy? Water in the system? Boiled fluid? Corroded or burnt? Manual stipulates fluid needs to be changed every 2 years or 30k miles.

 

Fluid is actually not healthy i bled all my brakes with fresh fluid a year ago/3k miles ago but now it is dark orange and has air bubbles, i only got it home last night so i didn’t know this.
I noticed some snow got under my hood before all this happened but would that still cause them to lock up? crazy i drove almost 25 miles like that

 

I mean if we're talking bubbles - that certainly could explain them feeling weird once you started driving. As to "dark orange" idk who what when where how shade of orange that is. The smell test is the real teller here. It's chemicals, or, very clearly it's burnt smelling.

But all of that happened in a year? Oh dear.

Take a good hard look at all of your brake hardware sir. I suspect you've got some troubles lurking!

 

Yeah i think i might have found my problem lol, thats why my brakes are soft but could that also be why they locked up? My brakes have had no issues until the freezing weather, definitely getting new lines and fluid but do you think the e brake boot is still an issue?

This is my brake fluid reservoir, nasty

this is how it should look