Subwoofer replacement
#16
Perfect it isn't but a good drop in replacement for the original it is.
For the wiring, a quick search in the forum finds you this.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...to-16ohms.html
#17
If you use a separate amplifier for a bigger sub, how is this wired? Is the input to the separate subwoofer amplifier coming from the head unit, or from the ML amplifier?
I'm unclear if the output of the head unit is two channel, or if it is already splitting the signal into a channels for each speaker.
I looked at pictures of the (2004-2006) ML amplifier, and I see three female Molex connectors but I'm unsure what each plug is connected to. Does anyone have wiring diagrams?
I'm unclear if the output of the head unit is two channel, or if it is already splitting the signal into a channels for each speaker.
I looked at pictures of the (2004-2006) ML amplifier, and I see three female Molex connectors but I'm unsure what each plug is connected to. Does anyone have wiring diagrams?
#18
How does the Dayton compare to the original? Do you listen to bass-heavy music (i.e. hip hop or EDM)? I refoamed the Mark Levinson sub and it has very little bass output and buzzes loudly on tracks with very low frequency bass. It's possible that the voice coil was slightly off-center when I glued the new surround back on, or perhaps the sub has inherently low excursion. Either way, I'm now looking into buying new sub but I'm skeptical that any single 8" subwoofer will have sufficient output at very low frequencies.
And I mainly listen to hard rock/metal, but I do have some drum and bass and hip hop/rap in the mix too!
Last edited by YoshiMan; 07-31-24 at 08:07 PM.
#19
The ML system is all about accurate reproduction, or High Fidelity (HiFi).
If you want a lot more bass I would recommend considering an aftermarket system but you are looking at $$$$.
The Dayton Audio gives about the same level of bass as the OEM after break-in.
That said, if your OEM sub is buzzing then it is busted and any replacement will be an improvement.
I'm not into bass (more of a ProgRock & DeathMetal fan) but the bass in some Peter Gabriel tracks and the soundtrack to Blade Runner 2049 can rattle loose stuff in the door pockets!!
If you want a lot more bass I would recommend considering an aftermarket system but you are looking at $$$$.
The Dayton Audio gives about the same level of bass as the OEM after break-in.
That said, if your OEM sub is buzzing then it is busted and any replacement will be an improvement.
I'm not into bass (more of a ProgRock & DeathMetal fan) but the bass in some Peter Gabriel tracks and the soundtrack to Blade Runner 2049 can rattle loose stuff in the door pockets!!
#20
To make it easier I’m pretty sure you’d need a Line output converter you take the already existing subwoofer wires and connect it to that and you’d connect that LOC line output converter to the new amp. You’d have to run a power wire from the battery to new amp. There are some detailed instructions on here on how to do it.
I have a background in audio but not car audio. Is it typical to have the subs placed in the trunk with no opening into the main cabin? My guess is that low frequencies (<100 Hz) would pass through seats just fine but I’d like confirmation before wasting my time.
#21
Having subs in the trunk is totally normal in car audio but they are running a lot more power than the factory amp. So you’d need an aftermarket amp but then you’d be defeating the purpose of finding 8ohm subs and wiring them to get 16 ohms.
I had a sub in the trunk but even with low frequency rule there was so much energy lost between the solid wall, sound deadener, seat, etc that it wasn’t for me. It sounded good inside the cabin but the trunk lid and everything outside was rattling too much. Cool when I was younger but not so much now.
I had a sub in the trunk but even with low frequency rule there was so much energy lost between the solid wall, sound deadener, seat, etc that it wasn’t for me. It sounded good inside the cabin but the trunk lid and everything outside was rattling too much. Cool when I was younger but not so much now.
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FelixBabakuntos (08-05-24)
#22
One long-term idea I have, if I’m not satisfied with the single 8” output, is to build a box with two 8-ohm subs (8” or 10”) with similar sensitivity to the ML sub and wire them in series (giving 16 ohm total resistance) to the ML amp. I can’t think of any reason why this shouldn’t work.
I have a background in audio but not car audio. Is it typical to have the subs placed in the trunk with no opening into the main cabin? My guess is that low frequencies (<100 Hz) would pass through seats just fine but I’d like confirmation before wasting my time.
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FelixBabakuntos (08-05-24)
#23
But yeah, I do see your overall point -- the increase isn't likely to be as great as one might think and it'd only be helpful at higher power when excursion limitation becomes an issue.
Trunk mounted sub is not ideal anything above 100Hz drops off sharply in the cabin.
Have any of you had experience with putting it the heavy sound deadening mats around the subwoofer area? Did it increase bass output significantly?
Also, what kind of connector is used by the stock ML subwoofer? Is that a 2-pin Molex or is it something else? I don't want to cut the connector off the ML to put onto the new sub -- I'd rather just buy the connector from Amazon.
#24
Also, what kind of connector is used by the stock ML subwoofer?
#25
Not to derail the topic but this interests me. I know people are using other woods but I thought it was a strength and weight preference. Is there really a difference in sound quality between woods?
#26
Too subjective for me to say definitively. I'm running a very old B&O speaker box as a sub 3 sides are rosewood veneer on some kind of plywood not exactly sure what it is but sounds awesome. Different materials certainly have different character MDF is used because it's cheap, cuts nicely, and sounds good. But it has a kind of dead character I'm not crazy about.
#27
#28
If you use a separate amplifier for a bigger sub, how is this wired? Is the input to the separate subwoofer amplifier coming from the head unit, or from the ML amplifier?
I'm unclear if the output of the head unit is two channel, or if it is already splitting the signal into a channels for each speaker.
I looked at pictures of the (2004-2006) ML amplifier, and I see three female Molex connectors but I'm unsure what each plug is connected to. Does anyone have wiring diagrams?
I'm unclear if the output of the head unit is two channel, or if it is already splitting the signal into a channels for each speaker.
I looked at pictures of the (2004-2006) ML amplifier, and I see three female Molex connectors but I'm unsure what each plug is connected to. Does anyone have wiring diagrams?
This and the other picture are the 2 subs I just picked up
This is just a screenshot of the LOC I got. It has a bass control **** if you wanted to run it up to the dash aswell
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FelixBabakuntos (08-06-24)
#29
Yes, please update as you go through it.
How would your subwoofer amplifier be powered? I assume you’d add breakouts to run the power wires from the ML amplifier to the new amplifier, thus wiring the two amplifiers in parallel?
How would your subwoofer amplifier be powered? I assume you’d add breakouts to run the power wires from the ML amplifier to the new amplifier, thus wiring the two amplifiers in parallel?
#30
There is no way the factory wire could power an amp required for that speaker. He will run a wire directly back from the battery, probably 4-8ga.