KINGLS430

Is it possible to atttach another amp and sub to the line comming out of the ML head unit for the present sub woofer and amp. In others words is it possible to run another sub woofer and amp of the same line as the present sub woofer and amp and run them both at thesame time with the same sound?

motohide

The LS430 in both Mark Levinson and Standard Audio uses multiplex signal to level and DSP control between the amplifier and head unit. Also the radio tuner is also separate in the trunk via multiplex signal too. That this means is that there is no separate subwoofer signal traveling between components of the OEM system, only a pure, non-faded line link in 2 channels. So there is no way to tap out the sub channel in-line.

The easiest way to run a subwoofer channel then, is to tap a speaker signal from the amplifier that runs to the subwoofer itself. There are two subs in Mark Levinson (ML) and 1 for Standard, and either one is fine as its running from the same internal cross-over point on ML system or the Standard.

You can no longer drive the OEM subwoofer from this OEM Amplifier output if you tap it for signal, but you can run an aftermarket amplifier for each sub you need (including the OEM ones), as many as you want, by converting this subwoofer speaker output into a line level by use of a line level converter (the box you find at audio stores, for turning speaker outputs into RCA signals... OR, by using amplifiers that CAN take speaker level outputs as inputs.) Do make sure that the amplifier you buy and line adapter, does have proper frequency response low enough needed to drive the subwoofers correctly.

This is easy for installers really as you can just basically disconnect the OEM SUBWOOFER connection, run it into the line level adapter then to the amp, or amplifier already equiped with speaker level inputs... Then wire the amplifiers power it from the battery and capacitor, trigger it from the OEM amp remote wire (on the amp) , and multiply (split) the signal for as many amplifier/subwoofer combo you have.

Note: If this all sounds really confusing, then you should consult a professional audio installer...
Because as cheap-looking an OEM pieces may look, these components are BIG BUCKS to replace if you fry them doing something wrong... something in the $700 range just for the OEM AMP!!! USED!!!

KINGLS430

Ok so my head is spinning so I will have my Audio guy look at it. But from what i just read there is a way to run 2 10's or 12's in the trunk and the ML subs in the car all i need is the right aftermarket Amplifier?

GATO

iTrader: (1)

Hey Motohide,

I've always ran a sub on all my previous vehicles (ES,GS) and they all have sounded nice....except my new LS

With the LS.....I stepped it up a bit with a nice JL 500/1 Amp and a pretty mean sub.....only problem is it doesnt hit that hard.......

The shop that installed it says cause the LS's cabin is soo tight it doesnt allow much to come in from trunk. Which kinda makes sense to me....
he was telling me to do away with my cooler box and make a port to allow the bass to come in..... I like my cooler box (keeps my Monsters chilled)
So, anyways, I was thinking of removing the actual OEM sub and building a custom box for my 12 inch sub to point upward into that hole, essentially coming into the cabin and bouncing off the back windshield. Thaughts??

beangrower

i was thinking of removing the sub and using that hole as a port, then build a box around that. however, plans changed and now i have a big air tank in the way. so no im looking into a good 8" free air sub. not much to choose from though. currently running a separate 10" sub box. oh yeah, i have a non UL so I can jus fold the arm rest down and let the sound come thru from the trunk.

KINGLS430

The trunk wouldn't allow a lot of bass to come through damn i never thought of that. Guess it's back to the drawing board UNLESS........ U can build a box to hold a single 10 Like a Polk MOMO and trim the OEM hole in the back so it will fit NE thoughts? I just want to be careful cause i was in my friends car when he blew his rear window out cause his woofer was close and too powerful.

motohide

That would be correct. Aftermarket amplifier that can accept speaker-level input, a installation of power cable and preferably a capacitor, and run in a series for as many amp/sub units as you'd need. This tapped from the speaker line out of the OEM subwoofer driving singal of the amplifier.

motohide

Yes, the LS430 has a completely sealed trunk (set apart from the cabin to reduce resonance and more accurately control cabin temperature) If you think about it, it's also obvious as to make the OEM sound system nice, it's sealed so that the OEM SUBWOOFER mounted on the shelf deck, can use the sealed trunk as an enclosure!

So to have a maximum effect for bass to pass through efficiently, one would need to make a large enough hole for air pressure to equalize in the cabin. One method would be to open the pass-through access behind the arm-rest. Obviously if equipped with a cooler/heater box you can't do this. Another solution would be to remove the shelf mounted subwoofer (OEM) and also maybe cut a hole through the liner (interior trim of the dear deck, inside the trunk) if it develops rattles.

I would think the latter makes more sense as you are basically replacing the function of the rear OEM sub by installing the added and more productive subwoofer box in the trunk. BY OEM SUb removal you also get the benefit of more amps (electrical draw of the amplifier) being available for the rest of the speakers in the car as the OEM amp no longer has to drive the subwoofer...by far the most power consuming component of the speaker array. This won't raise the wattage of the amplifier, but it will reduce the power surge and shortage that occur when OEM amplifier draws more current than the system can give from the car's harness. (And the reason most aftermarket amplifiers for subs are installed with a capacitor)

GATO

iTrader: (1)

next question, is the sound system in these cars somewhat governed....what I mean is, when you turn the volume up to about 42.....the bass starts to fade out.....is this done to avoid speaker blowing????

if so, can you by-pass???

KINGLS430

Ive noticed that too, 42 is the maxx volume that i can hear/feel the bass.

soaringsc3

I have the same question but for an sc300 is that possible??

KINGLS430

Personally the mark levinson system is good but not great my sisters toureg has better sound then my Lex. I'm not kidding. but if you look at BMW's work with Harmon Kardon Mercedes work with Bose and Audi's work with Bose and Bang & Olufsen. Lexus's stero doesn't compare but then again this is only my opinion. Anyone else?

motohide

The DSP section of the factory radio is 'tuned' to fade out excessive bass at the head unit and thereby feeding this signal to the amplifier via the multiplex cable... Since we cannot modify this portion of the signal in a LS430...you're stuck with this... As in the above mentioned setup, we are only taking the final speaker output to drive the amplifier signal.

Only way to completely customize the output is via an aftermarket audio system head unit... (with or without factory amplifier)

With factory amp, we'd need a sound and signal converter like supplied in a Beat Sonic unit, without any factory amps, you can re-wire the entire seound system yourself (yeah including all 10 speakers or 7 in the case of non ML)

Short Answer therefore for this application of this thread... No, you can't bypass it... Bass will tone down. However some amplifiers do have remote output control so you can compensate the subwoofer output from the cockpit... Try like Rockford Fosgate's 4000 series amps with optional remote subwoofer output controller.

motohide

That's another story and another thread... Long Long story...
But, Simply... All OEM sound systems have it's limitation and NONE are designed to roam your local parties providing your neighbors with extreme BASS... It's designed to sound nice and pleasant to the occupants only. So beyond this, you just need to get creative and gather up qualified people and spend tons of money on a custom setup that fits your abnormal needs...like me! LOL...

motohide

Same method applies for SC300. However SC300 has normal line level signal between amp and head unit so tapping or feeding signals to the factory amp via aftermarket head unit is a bit easier.

Still, you need to just sink your head into the OEM wire diagram of these components, understand what's taking place in these lines and design your system. It's pretty extensive, what needs to be done and none of it is as simple as wiring a 1980 Corolla with single DIN unit that did everything, running 4 speakers... All Lexus is a bit more complex... and 2001-on with multiplex signals are VERY complicated.