joe42276

Just did 100k service myself for LS430 ('01)... new timing belt, tensioner, water pump, pulleys, etc... Gotta say, I'm impressed with Toyota engineering. Everything went so smooth. It was pretty easy and painless. everything was accessible and everything came off as it should. The only tip is to get a hold of a crankshaft bolt tool. This makes it all effortless.

I changed all the tensioner and pulleys too... but man, they are quality parts... looks like they could go another 100k. I only replaced them because I already purchased them already.

The timing belts are also marked, so it's practically goof proof for not getting the timing right.

Took about 4 hrs... Not bad. Went well.

lex2001

Joe,

Would you mind writing a step by step tutorial on what you did and how?

Thanks.

Nauticalx

I'm assuming you used the repair manual to guide you? What is your level of experience and training on vehicles? I've done brakes, tranny fluid changes, spark plugs, etc but I decided not to mess with changing a timing belt myself until I just read your post.

joe42276

My level? Hmm, well, I've rebuilt several engines before, tuned, standalone ecu's, built turbo kits, nitrous'd most of my cars...etc... I also worked for several tuning shops as an installer (both japanese and euro shops) but I guess I'm getting older... I still like modd'ing cars, but in very subtle ways, and enjoy maintaining cars in peak, reliable condition. By profession I have a BS in transportation design, and I work for a major Japanese Automaker (CG Modeler/Designer).

Anyway, if you have a socket wrench set, and can remember what bolt goes where... then you can do this... And YES, I always have a factory shop manual before I tear into engine components. (borrowed it from my company's library gotta love the resources!)

Anyway, I'd love to leave any tips to share... I just wish I took pics now.
I'll try to break it down simply....

Nauticalx

OK, so you're definitely more experienced than I am....are you certain that this is advisable? I have a repair manual and looked at the steps but got scared off once I looked at some steps needed to ensure that the timing didnt change... any change in this could cause the valves to go crashing into the piston heads right?

joe42276

Well, I recently changed the Timing belt and water pump, so while it's still fresh on my mind, I'll put down some tips and such of what I did. Hopefully it'll help someone when they do it too. (if you disagree with how I did things, or have problems, don't blame me, I'm just noting down how my experience went, using my own experience, and preferences )
This write up may be a bit scattered, so just bear with me

tools needed (that I can remember)
-metric sockets (8, 10, 12, 14, 17, and a bigger one for the crankshaft bolts (I used a socket from a wheel wrench)
-torque wrench (crankshaft is 181 ft./lb.)
-crankshaft pulley bolt removing tool
-channel lock pliers for spring hose clamps
-vinyl hose (from Lowes... $2-3 for several feet... used for draining coolant)
-3 empty one gallon water bottle
-Engine silicone gasket maker (in a tube)
-Ramps or jack stands
-pan for collecting oil

---------------------------------------------------
2001 LS430 w/ 100k miles

-Drive car up on Rhino ramps (front)
-Remove under belly pan.
-Look for the coolant drain valves... one on each side of the engine block.
-Hook up a 18" vinyl hose (from Lowe's $2-3?) to the drain valve.
-I also used the same vinyl hose on the radiator drain (original one is kinda short)
-I used 3, empty one gallon containers to collect the coolant. One container per valve. I drained about 2.5 gallons this way.
-Close the drain valves now.
-Unplug the 2 big radiator hoses, and 2 small ATF hoses from the radiator.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
-From the topside, remove the entire air intake shroud, air filter box and intake hose (couple clips, couple hose clamps, and couple 10mm bolts)
-Remove engine cover (10mm x2)
-Unclip the wire harness from the radiator (1 connector) <--powers the fans
-Remove the top radiator brackets (1 on each side, 1 bolt each)
-Lift, and remove radiator.
-Put a socket (14mm?)on the drive belt tensioner, and rotate left... it will remove tension, so you can remove the belt
-Unclip the cam position sensor connector <-- on driver side cam pulley cover
-Remove the plastic timing belt covers (lots of 10mm bolts, and a couple 12mm) (keep note of what went where)
-There is a smaller black hose near the throttle body (it's a coolant line that goes into the thermostat housing) Disconnet this hose.
-Remove thermostat housing cap (3 bolts) and remove old thermostat.
-Remove thermostat housing (this is where the upper radiator hose is attached to the engine) (2 bolts). This might take a little effort, but pull straight. It has a silicone bond to it, and a rubber O-ring on the pipe (you'll see when you pull it out.) I reused the Oring, but you'll have to scrape the old silicone gasket off.
-Remove alternator bolts (3 of them)
-Pull the Alternator off the mount points and move it aside (don't disconnect any wiring)
-Remove AC compressor bolts (14mm, 3 of them)
-Pull the AC compressor off to the side (I think there was a small electrical connector that I disconnected, but don't disconnect the AC hose)
-Remove center pulley braket assembly

-------------------------------------------------------
Removing crankshaft bolt:

-Rotate the crankshaft to TDC... (Line up the arrow to the tick mark) If yo did this right, then the tick mark on the camshaft pulleys will also line up w/ the arrows. ( a wheel wrench socket will work on the crankshaft bolt)
-The crank pulley tool is odd. You'll have to bolt it to the pulley with the 2 supplied bolts, and amazingly, it hold very well.
-screw the Crankshaft tool onto the pulley. Use a breaker bar or what you have to hold the tool, and use the wheel wrench socket to loosen the crankshaft bolt. Remember... leverage is your friend!
-Once loosened, the crankshaft pulley will slide off.
--------------------------------------------------------

-Now proceed to remove the rest of the plastic timing belt covers.
-Loosen the timing belt tensioner (12mm x2)
-Remove timing belt. Double check to make sure the camshaft pulley and crankshaft pulley tick marks are lined up to the little marks on the engine.
-Remove water pump.

***you're 1/2 way done now!***
----------------------------------------------------------

-Inspect all your roller pulleys. They should feel smooth, w/ a slight resistance... as if it were packed with grease. They shouldn't free spin like skateboard wheels. Anyway, they should be smooth, quiet, and clean.
Mine were in great shape and could have been reused... but I already had
new ones ready, so I changed them.
-Now take a break.

-----------------------------------------------------------
-Ok... now after your break, install new water pump with new gasket.
-Install new timing belt. The oem Toyota belt has white markings on it designating the tick marks for the cam and crank pulleys (I love it!)
-Install NEW timing belt tensioner (some people reuse this, but it's just
insurance for me) and pull the pin to activate it.
-I like to turn the crankshaft over twice to make sure the pulley tick marks line up properly (if you do this, the white markings on the timing belt won't line up anymore... just disregard it and observe the pulley tick marks)
-Reassemble the plastic timing belt covers... You took good notes of where
everything goes..right??
-Install crank pulley (with crank tool again)... 181 ft/lb torque.
-hook up the alternator
-hook up AC compressor
-Install thermostat housing to water pump (use silicone gasket maker on the rectangular opening)
-Install new thermostat and gasket
-Hook up the small coolant line to thermostat housing
-Install radiator (2 brackets on top) & connect fan wire harness
-Connect the big radiator hoses and small ATF hoses to the radiator.
-Install air intake hose and air filter box ( with new filter )
-Don't put the air intake shroud on yet
---------------------------------------------------------------------

-Fill the radiator and reserve tank with Toyota LLC Coolant
-Top off the ATF (I filled it using a skinny funnel through the dipstick)
-Make sure everything that needs to be connected again (wire harness, etc) has been connected.
-Fill out the Timing Belt Change record sticker (comes w/ timing belt) and stick it onto the can pulley cover.
-Start engine, and turn heater on full blast.
-Personally, I like to squeeze the radiator hoses (kinda purging the air)... but I don't really know if this is neccessary. I just do it
-I ran the engine for about 10 min... untill heater was blowing hot air, and keep topping off coolant.
-Check for leaks
-If everything seems ok, then install the air intake shroud, and engine cover
-Install belly pan
-Enjoy the peace of mind that your Lexus is happy, and so is your wallet

-----------------------------------------------------------
**I know this seems complicated, but if you are somewhat mechanically inclined, all the steps were painless. All the bolts came off as it should. It's a lot of steps, but nothing was hard. If something is really difficult on this procedure, you're probably doing it wrong, or using the wrong tool.

I'll try to post the torque specs on the engine parts for this as well.

good luck!~

lex2001

Thanks Joe. It's greatly appreciated!

anotherLS

iTrader: (9)

can you do mine for me Joe? hehe just asking...where in Cali are u located dude id rather pay you than the dealer!!!

blacksc400

iTrader: (4)

I have done many of my Lexus's timing belt changes, kind of getting good at it, I just did my LS400 for under 3 hours!

Well, LS430 might take longer since I will be more careful and there are more covers!

Good write up!

Bob04

Thanks for your post. Info like you are posting here is very useful to those of us that want to do it ourselves.

Just a couple of questions. How much for the parts, and where did you get them?

joe42276

I might have missed some items here, but this is the list I used to pick up.

Here is the webpage. It's basically Carson Toyota's online store. Their prices are very reasonable. I would have purchased online here, but I needed the parts ASAP, so I went to a local dealer, and asked for them to match the price... and they were able to do that.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214915

**from the list, the items listed, my original pulleys really seemed to be in great shape. If you'rs are fine too, you could probably save a bit extra by reusing them. (Don't skimp on the timing belt tensioner... Please change that for sure (good insurance)). You probably can reuse the drive belt tensioner too (it's not vital, but if it gets loose, you might hear some belt squeal... that's all)

*** by reusing the old pulleys and drive belt tensioner, you can save about $300 off the list of items shown. Up to you. (I may be wrong on this, but I believe the dealer will only "inspect" your pullies when doing timing belt service... not replace, unless they are bad or noisy, etc.)

****I have yet to do the fuel filter, but it's definitely going to be done soon.

-Hope this helps~

Bob04

That's exactly what I needed. Thanks for all the info.

joe42276

glad i could help~

BT3100

Sorry to bump an old post but this is an excellent description of the process!
Best I have seen..
Thank You!