LS430 headlight aim
#16
Manual adjustment
First off, I want you to take some wall shots like I have shown above. Park on level ground about 30' from a wall, and you should see both of your cutoff's on the wall. If you don't, do the following.
Measure the projector height from the center of your projector to the ground. That number of inches should olny decrease by like 1-2" by measuring the height of your cutoff on the wall. For example if your projector height is 35" then your cutoff height should be no less than 33" from the ground. Got it!
Your owners manual should help you adjust headlight aim, if not, then dealer if you don't feel like tackling it yourself.
Measure the projector height from the center of your projector to the ground. That number of inches should olny decrease by like 1-2" by measuring the height of your cutoff on the wall. For example if your projector height is 35" then your cutoff height should be no less than 33" from the ground. Got it!
Your owners manual should help you adjust headlight aim, if not, then dealer if you don't feel like tackling it yourself.
As for the adjustment levers, I see in manual there is section on doing this with pictures, but when I open the hood, the fuse boxes and all are covering up pretty much the whole top and back of the projectors. Do I remove these or am I just not looking at the right places and openings? I have a 12" long phillips head screwdriver that I'm sure will do the job, but need to find the levers.
Thank you.
#17
I'll try to do what you described above and provide some pictures. I need to try to find a flat wall like that somewhere near town, or work first.
As for the adjustment levers, I see in manual there is section on doing this with pictures, but when I open the hood, the fuse boxes and all are covering up pretty much the whole top and back of the projectors. Do I remove these or am I just not looking at the right places and openings? I have a 12" long phillips head screwdriver that I'm sure will do the job, but need to find the levers.
Thank you.
As for the adjustment levers, I see in manual there is section on doing this with pictures, but when I open the hood, the fuse boxes and all are covering up pretty much the whole top and back of the projectors. Do I remove these or am I just not looking at the right places and openings? I have a 12" long phillips head screwdriver that I'm sure will do the job, but need to find the levers.
Thank you.
So when are we going to see pics of your LS?
#18
Pics pics...
ha ha... I'll post some time this weekend. I get home when sun's going down, so can't get good pics.
Haven't done anything with it yet. Just standard, bone stock, 2004 blk/blk LS430 with smartaccess. I probably won't lower the vehicle, but will get 18 or 19" at some point. I'll definitely be getting 5% tint once permanent plates come and I get ride of the temp sticker in back window.
Anyway.. be on the look out for my beauty...
Haven't done anything with it yet. Just standard, bone stock, 2004 blk/blk LS430 with smartaccess. I probably won't lower the vehicle, but will get 18 or 19" at some point. I'll definitely be getting 5% tint once permanent plates come and I get ride of the temp sticker in back window.
Anyway.. be on the look out for my beauty...
#21
Pics of my baby
Okay, I adjusted the "****" that's underneath the rubber cover that is just at the end of the rubber hood seal on the car. It adjusts the verticle fine, but I can't get the two lines to match. The "step" is moving up and down with relation to the driver's side lamp, so I don't think it's an "alignment" issue where I'll be able to match the two steps.
I had thought that perhaps the driver's side was too low, but it's not the case. I guess this is what the Scion driver who posted was explaining. Ugh... stinks then to have that 'step.' Oh well...
Anyway, on a better note, here are some pics.
I had thought that perhaps the driver's side was too low, but it's not the case. I guess this is what the Scion driver who posted was explaining. Ugh... stinks then to have that 'step.' Oh well...
Anyway, on a better note, here are some pics.
#22
Debadging
For some reason.... all the emblems in the back were very very loose, so I actually thought I was going to luck out with having an easy debadging job. Took the Lexus off... AHHHHHHH !!! There are two alignment holes. CRUB !!!! So I removed all the emblems and "rebadged" with 3M tape. Stinks !!!!
#23
Smashing nothing
If you read my signature and I say 'still smashing' for my Green RX, I'm making a "Hulk" reference. Now with the LS, the Hulking Green RX is almost a little baby...
But, gotta love the LS. Saw it parked when I was coming out of a store and the black color LS is just SO SO STUNNING ! Really is a dream come true.
But, gotta love the LS. Saw it parked when I was coming out of a store and the black color LS is just SO SO STUNNING ! Really is a dream come true.
#25
Lighting
Tinted windows is first. There are a few places in town that use "Color Stable" tint for the back, with micro edging (so you don't see any edges when window is lowered). I won't do the front as it's not "legal" to tint the windshield, or front two windows. Cost is $280+ I did my old Civic myself for about $60... but I dare not attempt and possibly mess up my LS.
I put the "Barbara Walters" lighting to taking the pictures, so the front end actually looks slightly better than it is. There are minor chips on the hood. I was wondering if applying clear-bra now would be worth it, in terms of looks. With the chips and minor surface variance, won't the bra sort of "bubble" and stand out at the chip points?
I may get :
HID bulbs (so similiar) for the fog lamps.
LED the interior lights
Add a DVD player with headrest displays.
All in due time... I'm just enjoying my LS right now in stock and see what I need more. I must say, I do feel "proud" to own the vehicle and never thought that I could be this "shallow" and be so "car status" loyal...
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