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I'm assuming the "bolts" are caliper pins? I've never replaced caliper pins but make sure their greased (using caliper grease) well. Also note any unique identification marks on the caliper pins for installation purposes.
Great post but I think , he should add that the sensors are only on the passenger side. I started on the driveside and was going crazy looking for the sensors on the car I just bought. I was really happy to find a plug unplugged for the sensor ,which was making the warning light go off
Any tips on getting the wheel back on without cross threading the bolts?
This is a serious question.
I changed wheels on 4 different cars and never had an issue, but I have a hard time getting the wheels on right on the LS430. Even before cross-threading the bolt, my local shop mentioned that several of the bolts looked like new while others don't, which makes me believe that the previous owner struggled with this as well.
I don't use any power tools.
Been there... A few years ago while I had my tires rotated at a local tires store, I watched the mechanic uses his impact gun to start each lug nut. Sure enough, one lug nut ended with cross-thread.
The owner's manual demonstrates the proper way to install lug nuts - Do it by hand as far as you can, because you cannot damage the threads by hand like you can with power tools.
The bolts are aluminum (1-time use) to bolt the calipers on, not caliper pins. Do NOT grease or lube the threads on those bolts!!
I am pretty sure the caliper bolts are steel and not aluminum but I could be wrong. Regardless of material torquing down the caliper bolts to 80ft'/lbs stretches the bolts so they are not supposed to be reused. I think many reuse the bolts but technically the old bolts should be discarded and new bolts should be installed if the caliper is unbolted. Note that the brake caliper on the LS does not need to be removed to replace brake pads.
I have the bolts as they were returned to me when the dealer did the brakes with OEM parts, after I bought it (cuz I noticed the pulsation after taking it home), and they feel like aluminum, quite lightweight.
I wish our brakes were bigger, but I guess it was a sign of the times. Newer cars will have rotors 15" or so, ours I believe are 12.x? Tiny for a car this size. The backs are quite pricey too. The cost of the OEM sensor wire kills me, although yes I know, just get an aftermarket for $8.
p.s. it was drilled into my head when I was a teenager, always use a torque wrench for the wheels. Pleasingly, Costco does do that! They have modern clean shops, and the latest tools too. I still wouldn't bring my BMW because I observed them not using the proper adapters, but otherwise, they do a good job.
Just bought this car 2 weeks ago, figured it would need brakes. Since I could
not really see pad thickness with the wheel on.
Got all my brake parts. Changed out rear brake pads last week and looked at the
thickness difference. Hardly any at all, so they were almost new. Front rotors
arrived and I was all prepared to change it all out. Measured the front rotors
on the car and compared to the new. They are new. Pads were new to. This car
is unbelievably easy to change pads on, you don`t even need to take the calipers
off. Just retainer clip held in place by a pin and locking pin.
So, I just put the new parts in to storage and await the day I might need them.
Just bought this car 2 weeks ago, figured it would need brakes. Since I could
not really see pad thickness with the wheel on.
Got all my brake parts. Changed out rear brake pads last week and looked at the
thickness difference. Hardly any at all, so they were almost new. Front rotors
arrived and I was all prepared to change it all out. Measured the front rotors
on the car and compared to the new. They are new. Pads were new to. This car
is unbelievably easy to change pads on, you don`t even need to take the calipers
off. Just retainer clip held in place by a pin and locking pin.
So, I just put the new parts in to storage and await the day I might need them.
Wonder if your experience was like mine....previous owner used cheap rotors (doesn't mean they saved anything, that's how the muffler tires shops make their $$$)....so I was in negotiations after the fact unfortunately, days after picking up, to say hey the brakes pulsate and I didn't notice when I test drove....so at first they were gonna turn, then they agreed to redo with OEM. I asked for all the parts back, and so I ended up with 4 caliper bolts proving they replaced as Lexus required, I got a Lexus / Toyota box back with Akebono pads inside hardly worn at all, I got a sensor wire back which proves they also did that with OEM, and I got the discs back already cut and smooth, so this must have taken place while we were negotiating. Anyway, my rear hats are totally rusted indicating a cheap aftermarket, as are the fronts that were returned, yet the faces of the disc are smooth....now when I get a multipoint, one told me 12/32 on fronts, 9/32 on rears, another told me 9/32 all around lol...going with 9 it's gonna be a long time before I need to do the rears, at which point I want to toss those ugly rusted rotors....
Now the OEM Toyota still has a tiny band of rust where unswept on disc, proving the entire disc is not coated like BMW. But the hats will never rust, and they seem to have minimum thick stamped on them...
btw I looked up the 2017 LS460 and looks like Lexus still puts tiny rotors on the cars (except the F sport)...oh well
I need to pull the pads to see what was installed on the one I maintain.
One thing - I'd avoid using anti-squeal/disc brake quiet on the pads for our cars(or any Japanese product). It's an old school product intended for use on pads without shims - like ones on older American cars with riveted friction or brake pads without supplied shims. Use of this stuff can damage the piston boots, and the shims won't work as intended.
Toyota does sell a shim kit with the inner/outer shims and a packet of silicone-based moly grease. I use Molykote M77, Honda's shim grease for OEM shims and the sliding surfaces of the pads.
I need to pull the pads to see what was installed on the one I maintain.
One thing - I'd avoid using anti-squeal/disc brake quiet on the pads for our cars(or any Japanese product). It's an old school product intended for use on pads without shims - like ones on older American cars with riveted friction or brake pads without supplied shims. Use of this stuff can damage the piston boots, and the shims won't work as intended.
Toyota does sell a shim kit with the inner/outer shims and a packet of silicone-based moly grease. I use Molykote M77, Honda's shim grease for OEM shims and the sliding surfaces of the pads.
Just as an aside, I did the BMW myself and followed the always change rotors with pads thingy...anyway, since my car was nearly new, in the high 10's or about 20k, the rear brakes squealed when coasting to a stop. Not just me, tons of forum folks said it's embarrassing. The conclusion was even though your pads may be 30-40% worn, the only way to cure is to get new pads.
Since my car still had a full warranty, I took it to the dealer. Noise is NOT covered, BUT they took it as a courtesy. Cleaned all 4 corners, reinstalled pads with anti squeal as I saw years later when I did my brakes. Did absolutely nothing for the noise.
So I was resolved to get my answer. When doing the rears, I changed ONLY the pads, they were 65% gone, old rotors, sure enough, quiet as a public library. I think this has to do with the semi metallic pads....
This was my first confirmation. At 48k, the backs were 65% gone, and the fronts, maybe 35%. Many cars today wear out the rears faster than the fronts, due to the traction/stability etc.....I love the BMW OEM brakes...I think the LS deserves larger brakes...and they're not even cheap at all.....
p.s. I used the paste on the BMW brakes, and even siicone on the pins, which they say is a no-no....whatever!
01-05-16, 06:10 AM
brake repair kit and bolts necessary?
