When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Are these the correct GSF bushings that one could use on their LS430?
Turns out they are cheaper by $100 AUD, when comparing them to the IS/GS/RC bushings I ordered from eBay, and arrive faster as well? Wish I seen this site earlier. Megazip is the site
Are these the correct GSF bushings that one could use on their LS430?
Yes those should be correct. I almost ordered from there, but went with a states based website for time reasons only. I'm still digging the bushings. They are not coming off. Goodluck.
Guys, the front (forward/small) LCA bushings have to be removed with fire. You have to burn them, then they are easily removed.
I replaced mine with Moog.
They made a huge difference in handling feel and tightened the front end.
BUT. Subjectively the ride over small cracks/bumps became noticeably harsher. You will feel it.
I'm not sure if it's the difference between the old Vs new bushings or the OEM that were softer Vs Moog.
After 10k miles there are some tiny cracks, not sure how deep they are.
So I can't vouch their reliability yet.
Sorry for dead thread revival but it seems like this is the only information I've been able to find regarding the replacement of the forward LCA bushings. I believe mine are pretty shot at 180k as everything else in the font suspension has been replaced and I have wondering on the highway and clunking around turns. I also had somebody drive the car backwards and forwards and there is movement in the tire backwards and forwards when the brakes are applied. Big bushing is about 4 years old so I am thinking it still has plenty of life left, looks fine anyway.
Regarding the forward bushings; what are you using to pull them? just hammer and a punch of sorts? are you burning away the rubber or just heating the control arm, then extracting? will propane torch work or do I need map gas?
ls430w140 also had mentioned the Moog bushings were not fitting back into the subframe once installed in control arm. Was this an issue of not fully seating the bushings all the way initially or will I really need to make some "modifications"? And final question: do I need to fully remove the control arm or am I able to leave the balljoint and shock attached, remove both bushing attachments and rotate it down to do the removal and install?
Sorry for all the questions. I am at an apartment and while no one has given me grief so far, I'm technically not allowed to work on cars in the parking lot. I need to be sure I can start and finish the project in one go as leaving the car undone over night is not an option. Its very tempting to just buy the control arm with the forward bushings installed but it looks like OEM are around $500 dollars when all I need are the $30 bushings replaced. The mevotech units could be an option but im hesitant at that price. Not sure if there is another option in between those two.
Sorry for dead thread revival but it seems like this is the only information I've been able to find regarding the replacement of the forward LCA bushings. I believe mine are pretty shot at 180k as everything else in the font suspension has been replaced and I have wondering on the highway and clunking around turns. I also had somebody drive the car backwards and forwards and there is movement in the tire backwards and forwards when the brakes are applied. Big bushing is about 4 years old so I am thinking it still has plenty of life left, looks fine anyway.
Regarding the forward bushings; what are you using to pull them? just hammer and a punch of sorts? are you burning away the rubber or just heating the control arm, then extracting? will propane torch work or do I need map gas?
ls430w140 also had mentioned the Moog bushings were not fitting back into the subframe once installed in control arm. Was this an issue of not fully seating the bushings all the way initially or will I really need to make some "modifications"? And final question: do I need to fully remove the control arm or am I able to leave the balljoint and shock attached, remove both bushing attachments and rotate it down to do the removal and install?
Sorry for all the questions. I am at an apartment and while no one has given me grief so far, I'm technically not allowed to work on cars in the parking lot. I need to be sure I can start and finish the project in one go as leaving the car undone over night is not an option. Its very tempting to just buy the control arm with the forward bushings installed but it looks like OEM are around $500 dollars when all I need are the $30 bushings replaced. The mevotech units could be an option but im hesitant at that price. Not sure if there is another option in between those two.
This is not a job you want to tackle unless you have a lift. It can be time consuming. I watched my Indy do the job, and it took some time. Lots of hammering, use of a torch as well. It can be a pain. You don't want to work in the street. We used OEM bushings.
Sorry for dead thread revival but it seems like this is the only information I've been able to find regarding the replacement of the forward LCA bushings. I believe mine are pretty shot at 180k as everything else in the font suspension has been replaced and I have wondering on the highway and clunking around turns. I also had somebody drive the car backwards and forwards and there is movement in the tire backwards and forwards when the brakes are applied. Big bushing is about 4 years old so I am thinking it still has plenty of life left, looks fine anyway.
Regarding the forward bushings; what are you using to pull them? just hammer and a punch of sorts? are you burning away the rubber or just heating the control arm, then extracting? will propane torch work or do I need map gas?
ls430w140 also had mentioned the Moog bushings were not fitting back into the subframe once installed in control arm. Was this an issue of not fully seating the bushings all the way initially or will I really need to make some "modifications"? And final question: do I need to fully remove the control arm or am I able to leave the balljoint and shock attached, remove both bushing attachments and rotate it down to do the removal and install?
Sorry for all the questions. I am at an apartment and while no one has given me grief so far, I'm technically not allowed to work on cars in the parking lot. I need to be sure I can start and finish the project in one go as leaving the car undone over night is not an option. Its very tempting to just buy the control arm with the forward bushings installed but it looks like OEM are around $500 dollars when all I need are the $30 bushings replaced. The mevotech units could be an option but im hesitant at that price. Not sure if there is another option in between those two.
I would recommend purchasing new OEM control arms. They don’t sell that bushings (split in half) unless you go with aftermarket. My moog bushing didn’t fit into original bracket, but this is likely due age and constant alignments and torquing the bolt further which gradually decreased it. Since the install, I have never had any issues with them, moogs are still going strong.
I replied my Lower Control Arm Bushings with the ones for an Lexus IS. The IS has the aluminum housing instead of the steel ones on the LS430. It was easy to do myself and only took about an hour to do both sides. The Aluminum ones are a little thicker, but the bolts are way too long anyway. It corrected my problem of a clunk when hitting minor chuck holes. I have put 2,000 miles on the 2002 LS 430 without any problems since the installation. I purchased them on eBay for $115 each and a genuine Lexus part in original package. The old rear bushing on the Lower Control Arm came off very easily, as I just had to pry down a tad away from the floor and it came right off. Car has 137,000 miles on it. Hope this helps.
Just replaced mine with the IS versions....WAY past due. No more creaking, should have taken about 45 minutes but buggered threads made it a long go Long bolt on drivers side and short on passengers side. FYI large bolt is 16MM x 1.5 pitch and small is 12MM x 1.25.
I agree---I waited too long also. Its nice to have the car with no creaks or clunks. Easy job to do, as long as you pry the control arm away from the floorpan a tad and it almost falls off.
Quick note on this job. BE CAREFUL when removing and reinstalling the bolts that go through the bracket, subframe, and into the frame.
I purchased some GS-F LCA bushings and thought it would be a pretty easy install.
I was not paying attention to where I jacked up the car and after I took out the 22mm bracket bolt, the subframe had shifted out of line with the frame.
I was in a rush and when I went to put the bolt back in it was slightly crooked, but I ran it in anyway figuring it would straighten out. Instead stripped the threads in the frame.
Shop wanted $1400 to fix it. Decided to do it myself with a friend.
Had to order a Time-Sert kit and spent many hours dropping the subframe etc to install it.
Not fun or cheap. Be careful and make sure everything lines back up. At least she's back on the road.
@Bexar what did you do wrong in terms of jacking the car? I am assuming using the front center jack point, then leaving it on jackstands that go under the door panels is alright?
05-22-20, 09:23 PM
Goodluck.
