@Bexar Hey man, I made the exact same mistake and have stripped that hole as you did. What was the process you went through/any tips to get that fixed?

 

Same. I did my passenger side no problem. Same order of operations on the driver side, which followed the service manual on which bolts to do and when to load and unload the suspension. Cross-threaded the closer of the 2 subframe bolts on my driver side. It's in there tight enough that I don't think it will go anywhere, but I will eventually take it to a shop or dealership to see if they can get it on a lift and line it up right.

I used the RC-F/GS-F brackets+bushings, 45516-50030 and 45516-50040. I kept the original metal protector hats on the front of the bushings per factory install. Someone on a YouTube video said they threw those out, but I think these metal shields protect the bushings from flying rocks and other road debris coming from the front.

Also noticed that my LCA bushings were oriented incorrectly from the factory, the little nub was on the top instead of on the bottom. Either they pressed in the bushings wrong, or used left-side brackets on the right and vice-versa. It's the only thing I recall that was installed incorrectly from the factory. Both left and right side brackets will fit on either left or right, so you have to use the one where the nub is on the bottom.

 

@StanVanDam Yep sounds like you might be okay, the one I've cross-threaded was the big M16 bolt that goes through the bushing bracket itself so i'm guessing it's pretty critical.

Currently trying to get a helicoil up there but it's recessed by the front subframe crossmember which makes it very difficult to drill out... Out of ideas right now!

 

@icasak99 That bolt goes into the LCA, you should probably just replace it at this point. I cross-threaded the inner bolt and had to tap it. Make sure to remove that original metal protector/bracket in front of the bushings otherwise they won't align properly and the ride will be too harsh. I drove around for a couple months with those on and the ride was tight but almost too tight and I got too much feedback. Once I removed it the right was sporty but not as harsh and the two other bolt holes lined up perfectly. (Also used GSF/RCF bushings)

 

@nvwls I've stripped the threads up there so I think we might be talking about different bolts. The other side went in perfectly, I started by hand both times but unsure why this side is so difficult, maybe I skewed it when I went to remove the bolt.

 

Sorry misunderstood what you said, I thought you meant the center bolt. I stripped the inner one, looks like you stripped the outer one, basically the same thing. Short of replacing the subframe your best bet is still to tap the threads. I didn't have any difficulty reaching the inner bolt threads, are the outer ones more recessed?

 

Yeah the thread is completely recessed and that brace is in the way of easy access. I might just try tap it again and see what happens....

 

Just wanted to add my experience in replacing original lower control arm bushings on my 2005 ML LS 430 with 140k miles.

- I got OEM bushings from Lexus of Akron online rather than the IS/GS new ones because I had a free way to remove the original bushings. They look a little old, but are in much better shape than the originals.
- removal of the bushings per instructions was easy
- put bushing in freezer for a few hours and a friend with a 3" arbor press popped them right out and inserted the new ones (although the passenger side nub is about 15 deg off center; I wasn't going to complain since I paid $0.00 for his help)
- reinstallation went well and I was very careful to not cross thread the 17mm small bolt on the inside of the car. I had to use a lever to slightly pull the control arm to the inside to get it aligned.
- I tightened the horizontal nut at the end of the control arm first, then the two side bolts, then did it again to make sure everything was snug all by hand to ensure nothing got catawampus.
- used my trusty Hazard Fraught torque wrench set to 104 ft-lbs for the two 22mm bolts and 44 for the 17mm bolt and went around all bolts 2x
- reattached the splash shield and bob's your uncle.

I'll probably check torque if I remember after a week or so of driving.

Did I notice any improvements? Yes - I'm sure a decent amount of this is psychosomatic, but the soft 'clunk' going over driveway ramp and potholes is gone; turn in feels better; slightly less steering corrections needed at speed on highway.

I haven't yet noticed a need for an alignment.

 

did you ever happen to get yours fixed? If so what process did you do? Im trying to tap the few threads i messed up but if you have a safer solution id love to hear it.

 

Sorry if I missed this but did anyone who replaced it with the IS aluminum bushing keep the little "splash plate" piece that went behind the original bushing? I removed mine as it didn't seem to have enough clearance to fit and even though the steering has tightened up significantly, my car seems to have developed a new clunking sound. Appreciate the help!

 

Hmmm. Assuming the facelift cars are the same as pre-facelift, it should be no problem to get just the bushings themselves. I bought a pair of OE Lexus LCABs for my '05 (I could be wrong but I think they were about $90 each), brought them to my indie mechanic, and they had no trouble installing them. Really cleans up the handling. Highly recommended. I don't trust aftermarket parts for these cars ... the OE ones are always much higher quality.

 

Here you go.
https://shopfigs.com/v5/index.php?ro...h=Ls430%20%231

 

I still have the plate on, and I changed to GSF OEM Bushings

 

Hi There, did you use Part No. 48075-24010 & 48076-24010?

 

Hi There, did you use Part No. 48075-24010 & 48076-24010?