BBE4300

Yes sir, exactly those two.

BBE4300

Here are the before and after photos.

The old ones look bad, but the ride wasn't bad at all, and no strange clunks or anything.

Changing it out to the new GSF OEM bushings was satisfying, though.

lorenr

iTrader: (1)

Those bushings are way worse than the the ones I replaced. I used the same RC F bushings and the difference was amazing. The car is now amazing.
Had no idea that the lower control arm bushings could make that big of a difference. No question that any LS 430 with a 100 k miles should change the bushings. The springs and shocks are fine, it's those bushings that are the problem.

Loren

LatinLS430

iTrader: (1)

This bushing would cause clunking noises over some bumps?

StanVanDam

LH LCA Bushing+Bracket, 2015-2022 RC-F 5L V8 & 2016-2020 GS-F 5L V8, 48076-24010
RH LCA Bushing+Bracket, 2015-2022 RC-F 5L V8 & 2016-2020 GS-F 5L V8, 48075-24010

is what I installed on my 2002 LS430, back in 2022. I kept the protective plate in front of both, no issues with fitment keeping it there. As the cross-threading happened to a few of us, perhaps try installing the left-side bracket with the car jacked up from the front cross-member such that both wheels are off the ground. I did my left-side with the right-side on the ground, which maybe caused the subframe to be slightly misaligned.

Also note that there is minimal mention on these forums about changing lower ball joints, stabilizer bar links, outside tie rods, and inner tie rods, which I did a week ago. All were factory original from 2002 and were very worn causing steering looseness and alignment not holding (I did a lot of offroading a few years ago). Got an alignment at Toyota immediately after changing those 3 parts on each side, they use the Hunter Hawkeye Elite alignment machine, and the tech got it perfect with a before/after printout. Steering is much tighter than before, front toe is 0.06' both LH and RH, caster is out of spec positively due to these new LCA bushings (LH 6.1', RH 5.0'), which the tech says is perfectly fine and helps steering return to center quicker, and camber is within spec at LH -0.6 and RH 0.0, total front steer ahead 0.00' and total toe 0.12'. Can't get any better than that.

My LH side upper control arm bushing that holds the steering knuckle is also very loose compared to right-side, will need to remove air spring to change that sometime in the summer, already bought "ABN Automotive SAE Air Conditioner & Fuel Line Quick Disconnect 7pc Tool Kit" from Amazon for $20.

Clunking over bumps can be worn out bushings, inner or outer tie rods, or undertorqued bolts such as the ones for LCA, strut/spring mounts, stabilizer bar links, UCAs, tie rod, lower ball joint, brake calipers, or even a worn brake pad spring, etc. You have to remove the castle nut pins to retorque the LBJ, UCA, and outer tie rod that goes into the LBJ. Generally you should install new pins as these are marked non-reusable parts, but you can reuse with careful extraction.

To torque your bolts properly: Calibrate your torque wrench using a table vice, a known weight, and a string to hold the weight at a set distance, converted from inch pounds to foot pounds. Example: 24 inches from the center of your square head drive * 20 pound weight = 480 inch pounds = 40 foot pounds. So when you hang a 20lb weight 24 inches away from the center of the square head, with your torque wrench set to 39 ft*lbf, it should click. Adjust the spring/screw in very small increments and retest at 39, 40, and 41 ft*lbf to ensure calibration, and ensure temperature of torque wrench during calibration matches temperature of actual operating environment. Then torque all your bolts to factory spec.

JOEYD2008

Thank you so much for the pictures. Do these bushings compromise the smoothness of the LS430? I can't decide between these vs 48075/48076-30030. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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