02 Rotors needed, suggestions
#1
Driver School Candidate
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NJ
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02 Rotors needed, suggestions
Has anyone put others than OEM rotors on their 430 without having issues. I read some thread saying some brands actually warped after little use. I don't want drilled and slotted. I am considering the Magnum drilled rotors being sold by a company in Canada. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.
#3
Driver School Candidate
Great experience with after-market rotors
I put cross-drilled and slotted rotors on all 4 corners of both my 96 LS 400 and my 2003 LS 430 along with stainless steel lines.
I got everything from a place called R1. Their online store does not show their complete inventory for the LS. Call and ask them.
Stop times were reduced and most importantly brake modulation is MUCH better. I went with a more aggressive ceramic pad on my LS 430 and the first 3 stops require a noticeable increase in pedal pressure.
The only downside is a slight hum sound when applying the brakes hard.
I highly recommend upgrading the brakes, and R1 has all the pieces.
I got everything from a place called R1. Their online store does not show their complete inventory for the LS. Call and ask them.
Stop times were reduced and most importantly brake modulation is MUCH better. I went with a more aggressive ceramic pad on my LS 430 and the first 3 stops require a noticeable increase in pedal pressure.
The only downside is a slight hum sound when applying the brakes hard.
I highly recommend upgrading the brakes, and R1 has all the pieces.
#5
Instructor
Wish I Had Done My Own Brakes. Total Cost With Pads And Rotors Turned Was $470.00.
Really Is Only An Hour Job After My Buddy Showed Me How Easy. The Rotors On The Ls Are A Monster And Do Not Need To Be Turned.
They Are Like Twice As Thick As Any Other Rotor I Have Ever Seen.
Lsman
Really Is Only An Hour Job After My Buddy Showed Me How Easy. The Rotors On The Ls Are A Monster And Do Not Need To Be Turned.
They Are Like Twice As Thick As Any Other Rotor I Have Ever Seen.
Lsman
Are you experiencing a specific braking problem that can be fixed with new rotors? Do you have the measurements of your rotors' run-out and thickness? How many kilometres/miles of use?
#6
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
You probably just need to bleed the brakes and possibly change the fluid. Contrary to popular belief, braid-armored lines don't really swell noticeably less than rubber-armored lines. The real purpose of braided lines is that they are more rugged and resist being torn away by flying track debris better than rubber armored lines. Unless the OE lines are in unusually bad condition, the difference you'll notice when you replace everything will be due to the bleeding and fluid change. I was told this by a racing brake engineer for Performance Friction several years ago, and I've actually tested it myself on a 300ZXTT. Everyone loves the look and placebo effect of the "braided stainless steel brake lines" though.
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