04-06 Sealed Transmission fluid change interval? (The Mother thread)
#211
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I don't know honestly, I have never tried to do this procedure myself but your logic is sound. You need to find and remove the plug. The overflow would not have a tube or be exposed to the elements. It's only there for measurments and to allow exceess fluid out. The plug has to be able to come out somehow. Then use section 6 to raise the temp of the transmission and check again.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 10-05-14 at 07:23 AM.
#212
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I think I have answered my own question after researching on the net. I found the A-761E LS430 transmission repair pdf and it shows more detail on the pan and actually calls the plugs on the bottom different names. Looks like the one called over flow has a lip on the inside which would not allow as much fluid to drain out.
I cleaned the outside of the pan and will check for my leak in a few thousand miles. I might just need to replace the gasket in a few months and figure out what the inside of the pan really looks like.
I cleaned the outside of the pan and will check for my leak in a few thousand miles. I might just need to replace the gasket in a few months and figure out what the inside of the pan really looks like.
#213
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Interesting. I guess it makes sense. I would do the procedure again in another 5k or so. 9 quarts are in the system total. Two quarts at time for each drain and refill. I have done mine twice and probably once more soon. Then again every 30k or so.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 10-05-14 at 08:23 AM.
#214
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Remove the 24mm refill plug and the rear tranny drain plug. I have done a drain and refill 3 times with WS ATF and 3 quarts has always drained out. I then refill with the same amount. I do drive the 06 LS 430 up on front ramps when I do this servicing. My tranny is extremely smooth.
#215
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I learned quite a bit from this thread, there was some excellent opinions and experiences. I have a LS 460 and changed my fluid at 73k miles. My initial plan was to just do a simple drain and refill...and continue to do that every 15k miles, but the fluid was so dark that I figured I had better change the filter and clean out the pan (which I ended up doing). But I'll tell yeah, I DO think the best way to service transmission fluid is by doing simple dump and refills, because you just don't want to remove all the friction material that has accumulated in that fluid and then introduce new fluid that has lots of detergents in it....it can wash those clutches and do catastrophic damage, yet that is what I did. So far my car is shifting fine - it's been four thousand miles since the tranny service - and I plan to do simple dump and refills every 30k going forward.
Keep in mind I never would of changed all the fluid at once, but did because I knew my car had a paper style filter, which I though should be changed....and because the fluid was so dark it scared the crap out of me. As it turns out - other than for the filter - I didn't need to drop the pan and change all the fluid. So far I've been good.
Keep in mind I never would of changed all the fluid at once, but did because I knew my car had a paper style filter, which I though should be changed....and because the fluid was so dark it scared the crap out of me. As it turns out - other than for the filter - I didn't need to drop the pan and change all the fluid. So far I've been good.
#217
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How much did Toyota charge to do this? I was quoted around $400 from Lexus. I'm concerned if they'd really do the service or not if I pay for it to be done. My LS has 118k miles and no record of this having been done. The Manual for Maintenance says at 120k to do this for the LS with a disclaimer ONLY if the car is operated primarily while towing! But to be honest, I'd feel better having it done for piece of mind.
#219
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Documentation of the Lexus recommended 04 - 06 60k mile transmission service.
http://consumer.xtime.com/menu6/?&pr...tic&make=LEXUS
http://consumer.xtime.com/menu6/?&pr...tic&make=LEXUS
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 10-21-14 at 12:38 PM.
#220
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I just had the tranny service performed at my local Lexus dealer. $170 well spent.
What a difference it makes in how this car shifts (especially when going from R to D when backing up).
This '04 LS has 151,000 miles and I don't think my sister ever took it for transmission service.
What a difference it makes in how this car shifts (especially when going from R to D when backing up).
This '04 LS has 151,000 miles and I don't think my sister ever took it for transmission service.
How much did Toyota charge to do this? I was quoted around $400 from Lexus. I'm concerned if they'd really do the service or not if I pay for it to be done. My LS has 118k miles and no record of this having been done. The Manual for Maintenance says at 120k to do this for the LS with a disclaimer ONLY if the car is operated primarily while towing! But to be honest, I'd feel better having it done for piece of mind.
#221
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Any suggestions on the best way to take off the refill bolt? I know its a 24 mm on the side after removing the cover. I'm having trouble fitting a socket and ratchet into the tight space. also having issues of getting a good firm fit of a 24 combo wrench or crescent wrench on. Any suggestions or links to specific tools would be greatly appreciated.
#222
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I used a 24mm wrench, the kind where the closed end is bent at a slight angle, use the closed end. tight fit but it gets the job done. You are right, a socket will not fit in there.
I had my car on a lift, I can see how doing this on your back in the driveway would be a disadvantage.
Make sure to use a new crush washer when reinstalling.
I had my car on a lift, I can see how doing this on your back in the driveway would be a disadvantage.
Make sure to use a new crush washer when reinstalling.
#223
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Well, I finally got it all done. With some finesse and patience I fit a 24 mm racheting wrench onto the refill bolt and worked it slowly loose. I then replaced the bolt with a custom made 18mm head bolt from another car project than has a larger bolt head instead of the super shallow 24 mm bolt head. Next time I'll be able to get a firmer grip though I'll still have to use a wrench of some kind.
In other news, I drained around 3 qts from the drain and check bolts. Then I dropped the pan and got another .75 quarts along with the filter/strainer which held another cup of fluid. Somehow I didn't have a gasket on my transmission pan and the bolts were not remotely snug. Strange, but I'm glad I caught it by DIY method. The bolts are a pain to get out and reinstall, if you've done it you know exactly which ones I;m talking about. Cleaned the 3 small magnets and the metal slime off the pan and had it in pristine condition. Replaced by check bolt and drain bolt with new cooper crush washers and then went to find the cooler line to disconnect. I had to disconnect the return line at the radiator instead of the usual "initial" return line. It worked just fine after I taped the hose to the gallon jug I was using. I popped a long drain funnel with a 1/2 clear tubing to the refill opening and started dumping ATF.
I'll not get into what ATF fluid I used but I didn't use WS. The cheapest I can get it is 7-7.50 qt + 9% tax and when doing 12 qts I went with anther option. The ATF I used cost around 58 or so for a 12 qt case and then I added some Lubegard Platinum for good measure.
The ATF was dark but not exceedingly so. I guess my 2 D&F's by a toyota and lexus dealer around 10k ago when I got the car did some work. Went through around 15 16 quarts, then warmed up the car for around 10 mins. Jacked up the rear end, since I was using ramps. Got the car leveled, turned off the car, opened the check bolt, about a cup drained out. When I started slowing down to a drizzle I replace the check bolt and took the car for a spin. Didn't notice a difference, which is good i guess.
Some thoughts on the whole D&F vs Flush. 3-4 quarts if D& F only. with a capacity of around 11.5 quarts for the whole system. Once I figured out the cooler line to disconnect it wasn't too much more hassle to do the cooler line method. The critics that say it'll make the transmission explode or have issues, I suppose I'll get to know in the near future. I plan on changing my tranny fluid 1x year or 6k miles if I have the time. Max maybe every 2 yrs or 12k miles. Basing that on Aisin aftermarket fluid pdf that recommended changing tranny fluid every 2 yrs or 20k km. Also since I'm not using WS fluid, if the fluid I using doesn't have the long-life additives that make the WS a lifetime fill I'll replace it more often.
"Ever since the development of A/T, the electronic and hydraulic components has became more complicated. Therefore it is very important to service A/T regularly. In general, carmakers suggest changing ATF every 60~80k KM, some carmakers even suggest for lifetime maintenance free. This suggestion has to be viewed from many aspects. With the higher quality living standards and deteriorating traffic condition, AISIN suggests car owners to change ATF every 2 years or 20000km. Without proper maintenance for the ATF, it will reduce your car performance, higher fuel consumption, or causing damage to the transmission."
Of those that say not to replace the fluid, I think it benefits to have around 11.5 quarts to "dilute" the wear metals and allow for more fluid deterioration than a ATF capacity of say 4-5 qts.
I like clean fluid so I use slightly cheaper high-quality fluid with similar chemical properties and change it more often.
Also, the filter has a paper element. It is NOT a metal strainer. If you order one you'll see the paper element very plainly. It's yellow. So I'd say it's definitely a replacement filter not a reusable one.
In other news, I drained around 3 qts from the drain and check bolts. Then I dropped the pan and got another .75 quarts along with the filter/strainer which held another cup of fluid. Somehow I didn't have a gasket on my transmission pan and the bolts were not remotely snug. Strange, but I'm glad I caught it by DIY method. The bolts are a pain to get out and reinstall, if you've done it you know exactly which ones I;m talking about. Cleaned the 3 small magnets and the metal slime off the pan and had it in pristine condition. Replaced by check bolt and drain bolt with new cooper crush washers and then went to find the cooler line to disconnect. I had to disconnect the return line at the radiator instead of the usual "initial" return line. It worked just fine after I taped the hose to the gallon jug I was using. I popped a long drain funnel with a 1/2 clear tubing to the refill opening and started dumping ATF.
I'll not get into what ATF fluid I used but I didn't use WS. The cheapest I can get it is 7-7.50 qt + 9% tax and when doing 12 qts I went with anther option. The ATF I used cost around 58 or so for a 12 qt case and then I added some Lubegard Platinum for good measure.
The ATF was dark but not exceedingly so. I guess my 2 D&F's by a toyota and lexus dealer around 10k ago when I got the car did some work. Went through around 15 16 quarts, then warmed up the car for around 10 mins. Jacked up the rear end, since I was using ramps. Got the car leveled, turned off the car, opened the check bolt, about a cup drained out. When I started slowing down to a drizzle I replace the check bolt and took the car for a spin. Didn't notice a difference, which is good i guess.
Some thoughts on the whole D&F vs Flush. 3-4 quarts if D& F only. with a capacity of around 11.5 quarts for the whole system. Once I figured out the cooler line to disconnect it wasn't too much more hassle to do the cooler line method. The critics that say it'll make the transmission explode or have issues, I suppose I'll get to know in the near future. I plan on changing my tranny fluid 1x year or 6k miles if I have the time. Max maybe every 2 yrs or 12k miles. Basing that on Aisin aftermarket fluid pdf that recommended changing tranny fluid every 2 yrs or 20k km. Also since I'm not using WS fluid, if the fluid I using doesn't have the long-life additives that make the WS a lifetime fill I'll replace it more often.
"Ever since the development of A/T, the electronic and hydraulic components has became more complicated. Therefore it is very important to service A/T regularly. In general, carmakers suggest changing ATF every 60~80k KM, some carmakers even suggest for lifetime maintenance free. This suggestion has to be viewed from many aspects. With the higher quality living standards and deteriorating traffic condition, AISIN suggests car owners to change ATF every 2 years or 20000km. Without proper maintenance for the ATF, it will reduce your car performance, higher fuel consumption, or causing damage to the transmission."
Of those that say not to replace the fluid, I think it benefits to have around 11.5 quarts to "dilute" the wear metals and allow for more fluid deterioration than a ATF capacity of say 4-5 qts.
I like clean fluid so I use slightly cheaper high-quality fluid with similar chemical properties and change it more often.
Also, the filter has a paper element. It is NOT a metal strainer. If you order one you'll see the paper element very plainly. It's yellow. So I'd say it's definitely a replacement filter not a reusable one.
Last edited by writes123; 10-28-14 at 09:31 AM.
#224
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Bad idea on not using WS fluid in my opinion. All the additives are mainly friction modifiers for the transmission clutches. Also, there really is no need to drop the pan or replace all the transmission fluid. Simple drain and refill is the best and safest way to maintain the fluid.
#225
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Bad idea on not using WS fluid in my opinion. All the additives are mainly friction modifiers for the transmission clutches. Also, there really is no need to drop the pan or replace all the transmission fluid. Simple drain and refill is the best and safest way to maintain the fluid.