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Just did 9 quarts fluid exchange on my 2004 with 101K miles using the procedure listed in post #305 and #313. Very straightforward process, took maybe 2 hours total. Car shifts a bit smoother, and it's nice to see black fluid replaced with bright red fluid. As long as you have Techstream, it's easy to monitor the transmission temperature and if you're relatively agile you can open the overflow tube while the car is on the ground. Tip: have the car on a level surface once techstream indicates transmission temp around 110F. Shut the car off while you get your ratchet and shallow drain pan ready. Wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt since the exhaust is right next to the overflow bolt. When you're ready turn the car back on, by the time you're draining the temp will be at 115F.
For what it's worth, I intentionally overfilled by about half a quart (to make sure there was something to drain) - the car drove fine. But it's so easy to get the level right, everyone should do it.
Also - here's an idea in case you don't have a helper to watch the fluid fill - use an action camera and app to remotely monitor the fill container. It takes about 5 seconds to get a quart but having video confirmation is nice.
Just did 9 quarts fluid exchange on my 2004 with 101K miles using the procedure listed in post #305 and #313. Very straightforward process, took maybe 2 hours total. Car shifts a bit smoother, and it's nice to see black fluid replaced with bright red fluid. As long as you have Techstream, it's easy to monitor the transmission temperature and if you're relatively agile you can open the overflow tube while the car is on the ground. Tip: have the car on a level surface once techstream indicates transmission temp around 110F. Shut the car off while you get your ratchet and shallow drain pan ready. Wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt since the exhaust is right next to the overflow bolt. When you're ready turn the car back on, by the time you're draining the temp will be at 115F.
For what it's worth, I intentionally overfilled by about half a quart (to make sure there was something to drain) - the car drove fine. But it's so easy to get the level right, everyone should do it.
Also - here's an idea in case you don't have a helper to watch the fluid fill - use an action camera and app to remotely monitor the fill container. It takes about 5 seconds to get a quart but having video confirmation is nice.
Just wanted to confirm with you that you didn’t shut the car off while measuring atf level?
The interesting thing. I've done it 2X on my wife's GM SUV at 70k. And like you say, it "IS" important.
Hers is a standard type with a huge opening to pour the fluid in, and a dipstick. The drain plug is tapered, so rather than fool around with thread sealant, I simply bought new plugs online for $3 and used them, as they come mfg'd with thread sealant.
And even though it has a dipstick, it was a bit tricky to get the fluid level back to full, despite measuring what came out (her car is like 5 qts). So if it's tricky to put the correct amount back in on a vehicle with a dipstick, having to simultaneously drain/fill implies a bit trickier to boot.
When I watch the YouTube with the guy showing Toyota equipment that accommodates varying temps, I can't help but think Toyota would not go to so much trouble if it weren't important and difficult a job. I prefer my wife's traditional setup so trial and error can get the level correct. And right or wrong, my indie INSISTS the vehicle must be level in addtion to the correct temp....
I wonder what is the difference in volume between room temp and whatever the proper temperature is. I think if we know the difference, there is no need to wait until the transmission reach the proper temperature. I am thinking that for ~2 qt of fluid the difference in volume is probably not that much.
I maybe over simplifying this, but just thinking out loud. I need to do this myself, but just have not had a chance.
I agree. With a 2.5 quart drain and fill performed in let's say approx 60 minute time-frame, the AT fluid volume change (with the typical minimal temp difference) during a drain and fill is going to be pretty small relative to total 11 quart AT capacity.
I am not arguing about being more precise and using tech tools but it should not stop anyone from doing a drain and fill with simple measure and replace method.
I have previously done several drain and fills on my car in the AM (with the car cold so no change in AT fluid temp). Carefully measured what AT fluid drained out and replaced with very close to same amount. No issues.
I agree. With a 2.5 quart drain and fill performed in let's say approx 60 minute time-frame, the AT fluid volume change (with the typical minimal temp difference) during a drain and fill is going to be pretty small relative to total 11 quart AT capacity.
I am not arguing about being more precise and using tech tools but it should not stop anyone from doing a drain and fill with simple measure and replace method.
I have previously done several drain and fills on my car in the AM (with the car cold so no change in AT fluid temp). Carefully measured what AT fluid drained out and replaced with very close to same amount. No issues.
Again, like you, not arguing. And obviously you've done a fine job and nothing has happened with your vehicle.
But your method is eyeballing, as is mine with my wife's GM. Measure 5 out, warm, so put something just under 5 in, room temperature. We're talking 1/4 quart less. Yet it took 4 rechecks to get it to full, hot.
Our cars do not function in a lab, but the Toyota tool is quite sophisticated and if I paid say $82 for a drain/fill at an indie, they should be doing it by the book....and I'd rather have it that way if I can't recreate it at home...
edit What I'm trying to say is I can recover from eyeballing with my wife's car, because it has a dipstick, but my LS does not have one. Who's to say? Could be 1/4 quart has no effect either way. Maybe 1/2 quart. Maybe even 1 quart. But what is for certain is that eyeballing will not be the same. Toyota compensates for 130, 140, 150, 160, 170, 180F. We don't know what temp the fluid is coming out, and they wouldn't compensate if it did not matter. Just saying. It does seem from a practical sense DIY doesn't harm anything. People have even posted their job on ramps. A dealer would never do that, they say has to be level.
I agree. With a 2.5 quart drain and fill performed in let's say approx 60 minute time-frame, the AT fluid volume change (with the typical minimal temp difference) during a drain and fill is going to be pretty small relative to total 11 quart AT capacity.
I am not arguing about being more precise and using tech tools but it should not stop anyone from doing a drain and fill with simple measure and replace method.
I have previously done several drain and fills on my car in the AM (with the car cold so no change in AT fluid temp). Carefully measured what AT fluid drained out and replaced with very close to same amount. No issues.
Agree. That is what I am planning to do. Car cold, measure what come out, and replace it. I have a ScanGauge that is mounted permanently in my LandCruiser. I may disconnect it and install in the LS to see the tranny fluid temp and then at the correct temperature open up the overflow tube for my sanity check and I am really curious how much fluid will come out.
Only reason that I have not done the drain and filled is time. My weekend seems to get filled with un-planned trips and other things that pop out of nowhere. My next opening is around Christmas. I have a few days off and various activities for the kid should be completed by that time. I plan to spend sometime in the garage, kinda my happy place lol I just hope it will not be too cold. My garage is not heated.
Correct, the car needs to be running when you're checking the ATF level/overflow tube.
These instructions imply a new gasket is needed each time the fluid needs to be added. Again, imho anyone who has dealt with ATF, I get we're not in a physics lab, but the amount that the volume changes based on a small temp difference is more than one would think. I've dealt with increments < 1/4 quart, and with a dipstick, it took about 4 adjustments each time to get it to where it should be, on a GM vehicle. And there are posts on this forum where the car isn't even level and on ramps. So it could very well be it doesn't matter. But I would not want a shop working on my vehicle like that, I'd want them following the instructions...
These instructions imply a new gasket is needed each time the fluid needs to be added.
Correct, if you follow instructions to the letter then you should replace the crush washer on the overflow plug. I did not have the exact size handy, so I just tightened it and shutoff the engine. Later I put the car back up to check for leaks, and verified the bolt was torqued properly with a torque wrench.
Again, imho anyone who has dealt with ATF, I get we're not in a physics lab, but the amount that the volume changes based on a small temp difference is more than one would think. I've dealt with increments < 1/4 quart, and with a dipstick, it took about 4 adjustments each time to get it to where it should be, on a GM vehicle. And there are posts on this forum where the car isn't even level and on ramps. So it could very well be it doesn't matter. But I would not want a shop working on my vehicle like that, I'd want them following the instructions...
I'm not sure if this section of your post is meant for me, but here's my opinion. The overflow bolt can be easily removed on a standard suspension car with the car sitting on a level surface. No matter how you choose to change the fluid, through drain and refill method or the oil cooler method, it would still make sense to follow the factory procedure and check the level. Otherwise you're just guessing, which makes no sense when there's a way to check.
I'm all for torque wrenches but at 15 ft lbs. it's pretty difficult to be accurate, and I don't own a 1/4" drive nor anything that can do in lbs. What I mean is torque wrenches are not accurate below 20% of the upper end of their range. So my 5-75 is only accurate down to 15 (this is true but also confirmed by the calibration certificate). But in practice I have observed--it can click, and the socket can still move based on one applying normal force....many experienced techs argue they don't need a torque wrench they go by feel to avoid overtightening...
I finally did a drain and refill @125K miles. Fluid is dark red almost black. I thought I saw that PO had this done at ~70K so I am kinda surprised to see condition of the fluid. I should have done this when I bought the car last summer. I am planning to drain and refill couple more time in the next few weeks. I drove the car afterward, just I expected, I did not feel any changes in how the transmission work.
Overall easy process except it is very tight space to get to the refill port. I was under the car and was thinking. I believe the transmission fluid line goes thru the radiator right? Has anyone tried to do drain and refill by disconnecting this line, start the car real quick to get the pump going. Just need measure how much fluid it come up, then pour the same amount in. I have done this on other cars and just pour the fluid from the dipstick. I am thinking I can just connect a funnel into the line and gravity fed the fluid. I may need to add a plastic tube to extend the transmission line a bit.
Nvm, I see someone has done fluid change by disconnecting the line. I need to read the whole thread lol
I finally did a drain and refill @125K miles. Fluid is dark red almost black. I thought I saw that PO had this done at ~70K so I am kinda surprised to see condition of the fluid. I should have done this when I bought the car last summer. I am planning to drain and refill couple more time in the next few weeks. I drove the car afterward, just I expected, I did not feel any changes in how the transmission work.
Overall easy process except it is very tight space to get to the refill port. I was under the car and was thinking. I believe the transmission fluid line goes thru the radiator right? Has anyone tried to do drain and refill by disconnecting this line, start the car real quick to get the pump going. Just need measure how much fluid it come up, then pour the same amount in. I have done this on other cars and just pour the fluid from the dipstick. I am thinking I can just connect a funnel into the line and gravity fed the fluid. I may need to add a plastic tube to extend the transmission line a bit.
Nvm, I see someone has done fluid change by disconnecting the line. I need to read the whole thread lol
Yeup, see my post, post #305 and #313 for how to exchange fluid using the transmission cooler hoses. Having done drain and fills underneath other cars I can say the transmission cooler hose method is much easier.
I just did my first three drain and fills, using the measure and replace method described many times in this thread. My car had a complete transmission flush at 80,000 miles at the dealer and now (at 120,000 ,miles, about 6 years later), the fluid coming out at drain # 1 was also as described in post 386 and I am very glad I did it.
A few tips for the first timer- the space around the fill bolt is very tight and you really need to make sure you have the tools to remove it (and remove it!) before you drain the fluid. I had to buy a 3/8 in drive 6 point 15/16 socket which fit a low profile breaker bar to have access to this bolt, my open ended and crescent wrenches did not work. The ratcheting wrenches in my tool box + a 15/16 or 24 mm socket were all too bulky for the tight space around this fill bolt.
I used a hand pump to reflll the transmission and it worked great. The pump came in a blister pack with the tubing all coiled up and so of course the tubing, with a coiled set, would not allow all the fluid to be pumped out of the Toyota WS ATF bottle, so I zip tied a wooden dowel to the end of the supply tube and stuck that all the way down to the bottom of the bottle that way I could completely pump out the full quart.
The top 10mm bold on the cover for the fill bolt is a total pain to get back in and I gave up, lower bolt is in there snug and I think that will be just fine.
1st 2 drain and fills I used jack stands, 2 1/2 quarts out and in, each time. Third time on ramps, more room under car, 3 qts out and in. Somewhere on here someone did the calculations on what % of the original fluid is left after X drain and fills, but I can't find it In any event, the shifts are butter smooth and I am glad I did it. I plan on 3 drain and fills every 20,000 miles.
I just did my first three drain and fills, using the measure and replace method described many times in this thread. My car had a complete transmission flush at 80,000 miles at the dealer and now (at 120,000 ,miles, about 6 years later), the fluid coming out at drain # 1 was also as described in post 386 and I am very glad I did it.
A few tips for the first timer- the space around the fill bolt is very tight and you really need to make sure you have the tools to remove it (and remove it!) before you drain the fluid. I had to buy a 3/8 in drive 6 point 15/16 socket which fit a low profile breaker bar to have access to this bolt, my open ended and crescent wrenches did not work. The ratcheting wrenches in my tool box + a 15/16 or 24 mm socket were all too bulky for the tight space around this fill bolt.
I used a hand pump to reflll the transmission and it worked great. The pump came in a blister pack with the tubing all coiled up and so of course the tubing, with a coiled set, would not allow all the fluid to be pumped out of the Toyota WS ATF bottle, so I zip tied a wooden dowel to the end of the supply tube and stuck that all the way down to the bottom of the bottle that way I could completely pump out the full quart.
The top 10mm bold on the cover for the fill bolt is a total pain to get back in and I gave up, lower bolt is in there snug and I think that will be just fine.
1st 2 drain and fills I used jack stands, 2 1/2 quarts out and in, each time. Third time on ramps, more room under car, 3 qts out and in. Somewhere on here someone did the calculations on what % of the original fluid is left after X drain and fills, but I can't find it In any event, the shifts are butter smooth and I am glad I did it. I plan on 3 drain and fills every 20,000 miles.
Try and get the front end as high as possible to get as much WS out as possible. I bought a 24 mm wrench to get the fill plug out. The 10mm stayed out for 2 years. I finally got it back in last month when I did a few drain and fills.
[QUOTE=TominPT;10631930]I just did my first three drain and fills, using the measure and replace method described many times in this thread. My car had a complete transmission flush at 80,000 miles at the dealer and now (at 120,000 ,miles, about 6 years later), the fluid coming out at drain # 1 was also as described in post 386 and I am very glad I did it.
A few tips for the first timer- the space around the fill bolt is very tight and you really need to make sure you have the tools to remove it (and remove it!) before you drain the fluid. I had to buy a 3/8 in drive 6 point 15/16 socket which fit a low profile breaker bar to have access to this bolt, my open ended and crescent wrenches did not work. The ratcheting wrenches in my tool box + a 15/16 or 24 mm socket were all too bulky for the tight space around this fill bolt.
Another option for anyone reading this in the future-
Either a 24mm or 15/16" will work as there's only a few thou difference. I was able to get the open-end wrench to work by putting it in place then sliding a thin (approx 1" thick) piece of wood up into the tight space which wedges against the wrench holding in place.
12-14-18, 05:10 PM
