pizitz70

Hey guys-

After hearing my blown factory ML sub for too long, its time to correct my problem. I have chosen the option of bypassing the ML sub completely and installing an aftermarket sub and amp. I’ve read (and re-read) all the threads on here regarding aftermarket sub replacement. I think I have a solid game plan, but since this board is one of the most knowledgeable ones I’ve found, I’d like for any audio experts out there to review my plan and make sure I’m not going to damage any of the factory components, and make sure I’m choosing the proper equipment to get the job done correctly. Yes, I realize this subject has been mauled over so many times—sorry for yet another, but I need this help before pulling the trigger.

The vehicle:
• 2001 LS430 UL w/ML audio

What I have:
• Polk Audio db1212 Single 12" Hatchback Subwoofer w/enclosure
• Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-1 amplifier
• Scosche SLC4 Speaker to RCA Four Channel Line output converter
• EFX Amplifier Wiring Kit 4-gauge w/Patch Cord

From what I’ve read, this is the process:


1. Unplug the line level wires currently going to the OEM sub amplifier and connect them to my RCA-to-line-level convertor
2. Connect an RCA cable from the RCA-to-line-level convertor to the new amplifier.
3. Connect the line-level outputs on the new amplifier to the new Subwoofer speaker connectors.
4. Run power from the battery to the new amplifier
5. Figure out a way to connect the remote-on connection from the OEM amp to the new amplifier


Some questions I still have:

1. Does anyone know where the OEM sub amplifier is actually located on this car? I’m sure its below one of the panels, although I haven’t gone digging in the manual yet.

Any advice is always appreciated. Thank you.
-Brian

Boomer01

I had an audio shop install my system so I'm no help.

GS3Tek

iTrader: (8)

Amp is in the right rear panel next to the navigation unit

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sea...archid=4858339

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

Not to sound like an butt but why comment just to say you can't help!

wildace

iTrader: (1)

if just getting a subwoofer then i suggest (which i did on my car a few months ago) is tap the wires going to the factory sub on the car. connect your line output converter to that and then hook up the amp. thats how i have mine set up. LOC need the amplified signal which is the signal that goes to the speakers.

StanVanDam

Does anyone have pictures to show how to remove the subwoofer from the back deck? Is it accessible via the trunk or do you have to remove parts of the rear seats?

sojah

iTrader: (1)

i am like 90% sure it requires removing the rear seats. i had a shop do mine and i am like 90% they also just used the factory lines and an rf converter then converter rca outs to amp and amp to sub then install amp kit as usual but i forget about the remote wire??

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

The remote wire can be ran to the acc wire near the key cylinder or if you can find the factory amp(somewhere in the trunk) you can get the amp turn-on signal from there. The fuse box is other location you can get the acc power for the remote turn-on.

AznRacer

iTrader: (2)

You dont need to find a remote wire source. Just get this unit im currently using it'll convert your oem sub wire to rca and it also have a built in remote wire for your amp. The unit comes with 1 negative wire, 1 positive wire, left speaker wires, right speaker wires, and a blue remote wire. It also come with instruction for connections.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-SNI-45T-Trun...item2eac664c11

pizitz70

Thanks GS3tek for the amp location.

Wildace,
Are you saying to tap/splice directly inline (and leave the original wires in tact) going in and out of the OEM amp? And if so, did you tap in pre-amp, or post-amp to run to your LOC? I can see how if you were to tap into the wires and run to your line-output-convertor, the OEM amp would still get on/off signals so that you could just run a jumper from the OEM remote-on to the remote-on to the new amp.

Otherwise, I could run a skinny wire with a 10-amp inline fuse to a switched fuse box terminal for the remote-on for the new amp. If I choose to run a separate wire to a switched fuse terminal, anyone know where the closest one would be in relation to the trunk?

StanVanDam,
When I put all this in, if the sound isnt quite right, I may try removing the blown OEM sub too. If I do that, I'll post how I did it.

PRSUIT460

iTrader: (3)

I would remove the OEM sub, the trunk is sealed pretty tight and you are going to want that space where the OEM sub was to act like a port so you get some bass.

pizitz70

Ok guys,
I finally got around to doing this job and started it yesterday. I was able run a 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the trunk. I also ran a remote-on skinny wire from a switched fuse panel I found in the trunk. I could not positively identify the rear sub amplifier. I inspected the unit on the right side of the trunk right beside the navigation DVD player, but that appears to be the FM tuner and not the sub amp. So what I did was remove the rear (blown) sub. There was a plastic connector on the sub, I unplugged that, then cut the connector off leaving the 4 wires that went to the sub. I noticed that on the actual speaker itself, there were only 2 wires soldered to the speaker, so I’m confused as to why there are 4 wires leading into the OEM sub. I have a 2-speaker line-output-converter that has 4 wires input and single RCA output. The exact model is here: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC8...nverters&ssi=0

My problem is now this:
Do I connect all 4 speaker wires to my LOC, or only 2 wires? And in what fashion do I connect them. I see on the LOC instructions, one is for Left positive, Left negative, Right positive, Right negative. Can anyone clarify this for me? The colors of the original 4 wires that led to the OEM sub are: Black, Red, Yellow and Green. Remember, I am splicing into the original speaker wires after the factory amp—not before (if that makes a difference).

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

I just got finished with my sub amp install to factory system also. I grabbed the signal from the red and black wires attached to the factory sub. Also used an LOC and twisted the left and right negatives together and did the same with the positives. Now just run that pair to the red and black of the factory sub wires. Works great for me and sounds good.

brow1231

pizitz70, how did you run the power wire from the battery to the trunk? Did you run the 4 gauge wire through the side floor panels or under the car? I will be running 8 gauge soon.