LRoy430ul

iTrader: (1)

Last week I installed the V-LED 6k bulbs as well as the plug-n-play kit on both sides and they were working great for about a week.

Yesterday I noticed that the DRL's were not working so I took them out. I re-installed the original bulbs to test but still no luck. Any ideas on what the problem could be?

motohide

Check the fuses for DRL? Have you had the LS serviced for custom settings at the dealer?

DRL on the LS430 late model uses high beam lamps at low voltage...So it should not really affect the headlight circuits...Thinking off the top of my head here...

LRoy430ul

iTrader: (1)

Thx...I'll check out the fuses. I changed the lights myself, didnt have the dealer do anything to them.

motohide

Any progress on this issue? I'd like to know too.

LRoy430ul

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it was the fuse. I replaced it with another 20 amp fuse and once again it burned it. Im still not sure what the problem could be cause everything looks to be wired correctly.

miniz

Did you install resistors before the LED bulbs? You can't just slap in new LED's and expect them to work correctly.

LRoy430ul

iTrader: (1)

Yea one module on each side

sojah

iTrader: (1)

which bulbs did you put in cuz i got the same modules and thankfully i don't have the fuse issue??

LRoy430ul

iTrader: (1)

I believe they are the same bulbs you got.

V-LEDS 6K HID WHITE 28 LED 2X BRIGHTER OUTPUT DRL/FOG BULBS HB3 9005 H10 9145 B/O

They work when I replace the fuse but after a couple days the fuse will blow. On my 3rd fuse so far, I checked the plug n play modules to make sure the positve and negatives were matched up and everything looked good. Maybe I'll try switchin to a stronger amp fuse...

motohide

I'm suspecting that if you wired your DRL HID ballast directly to supply power or switch a relay from the DRL power line, its probably not getting enough voltage to trigger the ballast on or completely ignite the HID bulbs.

What you may be able to do to solve it is to find the relay trigger point of the DRL on the car and trigger the HID ballast from there, and supply the ballast with a 12V constant line separately to supply the voltage. IN any case, if the DRL bulb line is not getting 12V to the original DRL lamp bulbs, you don't want to be using it for either the trigger or the voltage supply line.

Also make sure your HID ballast is powered from a line that has at least a 15AMP fuse for each bulb ballast.While an HID lamp is very efficient during operation, the initial draw required to ignite the bulbs can be greater for a split second, than a normal incandescent, halogen bulb.

sojah

iTrader: (1)

^ ^ ^ they are not hid's just led's. i believe it is all plug and play so i am not sure why one car (mine) would have no issues and one car (leroy's) would have issues.

motohide

Ah ok, LEDs are also susceptible to burnout or not lighting up when voltage fed isn't at the specified range designed for them. With over-voltage LED will burn out without lighting up, or with under-voltage they will not light up at all (unlike a standard incandenscent filament bulb which dim or get brighter over a very wide range of voltages. DRL's usually employ this character of incandenscent halogen filament bulbs to operate at lower voltage for dim operation as DRL and full voltage for high beams in some applications.

With the variances in voltage fed between the two cars here, one car may be getting slightly more voltage than the other. This is common depending on the condition of the battery, alternator, or various loads on the car from accessories or optional equipment. A normal car voltage on my Lexus Ls430 will vary from 11.2V to 13.8V depending on what electrical components are on at times.

OR... It can be that the manufacturer has switched suppliers or specification of the LED used on the kit from time to time, and that specific kit you have just needs another few tenths of volts to kick up. Have you tried feeding the LED directly from the battery to test if its still good at near 12volts? If so, simply powering it from a source that can get a steady 12V can eliminate the issue. If not, there is/was something wrong, either defect or something caused by you during your installation, and should be replaced?

BC Rider

If the "modules" for your led's are just resistors (they usually are) then they may cause too much draw. Based on my experience with another vehicle (a motorcycle my buddy decided to run LEDs on) the resistors are set up to mimic the amp draw of the standard bulbs - LEDs take much less power so you add resistors inline to get the load up.

I would not up the fuse as fuses are there to protect the wiring.

Two sugestions come to mind:

1. Check the resistance on the "module". Maybe they are wrong. Using Amps=Voltage/Resistance should tell you how many amps the resistors will draw. Or if the resistance of one module is not very close to the other - you can conclude one module is faulty.

2. Run an ampere test on the module with the lights on. You'll need a multimeter and back probe the appropriate terminals.

1sweetGS

were you able to figure out what the issue was? I bought the V-LEDS DRL's and they were working fine, then the right bulb stopped turning on. After some investigation, it seemed that the module went bad, becuase the LED would turn on (but flicker and not be as bright as the left side once th emodule was remoed and the LED bulb was put back in). I returned the module and received a replacement module. Everything worked fine yesterday...but today, that right DRL is not turning on...

Any help/suggestions would be awesome!!