WOW

 

Very nice writeup Roman! PM me if you need additional posts created up near the top as you add content and I can create them for you inline if you didn't reserve enough.

 

Does anyone know if the LS430 2005 has an FM antenna in the front behind the radio? I am installing an isimple Gateway with HD radio module but I can not find an FM antenna to plug the HD Radio module. I found my tuner in the trunk. I dont have NAV. So far I am using a hanger and it works until I figure this out.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Frank

 

RomanTPA - I nominate your entire thread here for the 'Best Thread Ever Award' in the LS section. If we don't have that award here on CL we should create it for the information contained here.

I was looking at some audio stuff tonight. I've had this weak audio output problem from one of my front door speaker for some time. I've had multiple speakers replaced in the car at the dealer (all warranty) and we couldn't ever really fix it.

I've seen other members here complain their ML sounds like crap, yet others seem to love their ML. We all know speakers age over time and blow. What we might have not thought of is what speakers are being used in your system after being replaced. These might have been replaced before you even bought your car if it was used. The Pioneer and ML speakers are a direct swap for each other size wise and if you look at the basic diagrams the Pioneer part numbers always come first.

Thanks to your excellent part number list I've worked out that my weak sounding door speaker is in fact a Pioneer part number. It's listed as such on my warranty invoice. The other speakers replaced though were all ML part numbers. So if you aren't happy with your ML and you've had a speaker replaced at some point, I suggest you check your repair invoice to see if the correct part was installed.

 

Awesome. Im glad I could help out a fellow CL member.

(everyone) Please keep in mind, If you do anything to your LS, please take a couple of pics and make a write up about it

we all help fellow CL members out, thats what makes this the best forum I have ever been a part of




P.S. Sub still works like a champ

 

Great posts below Roman on all of the installation methods...I may tackle the door speakers myself. But I still cannot find the exact specs for the ML amp or the right size door speakers to buy aftermarket for my 2001 LS 430. Do you have a recommendation of brand or part number? I am ok spending a bit more to get some really good speakers. I know the hole patterns on the speaker frames sometimes do not match the OEM either. I just don't want to buy $200 worth of speakers, tear my doors apart, and then not have them fit. Any help is appreciated. Crutchfield shows 90+ options for door speakers and I just don't believe that they will all fit. Thanks...Jeff with the Texus Lexus

 

The depth of the speaker is something to be careful about. Make sure of this spec as many speakers may be too deep.

 

I always take things apart first then figure out what and how to replace it with. I never realy have a plan. Hope that helps.

 

^^^ Same here. Pull a door trim,see what will fit,or what you can make fit,and go from there.

Online,I likely would have been told that my old UCF11 could only take 4" door speakers. In practice,I managed to rework the space and fit 6.5" alpine DD splits into it by making my own mounts.

What will fit is determined by how much room you have tyo start off,how much work you're prepared to do,and how stock you want the install to look when it's done.


Justin...

 

So is the general consensus for the 8-ohm Kicker Comp 8" woofer? I don't want any amp overloading problems or cause any damage to factory components. Local car audio shop is willing to do one for me @ $120 installed this weekend.

 

u are the MANNNNNN !!!

 

Read my Subwoofer post. It explains what to look for when replacing factory sub.

EDIT: corrected amp to sub

 

I'm not looking to replace the amp, just wanting some first hand experience from someone, that the Kicker woofer doesn't cause any problems.

 

Great thread, thank you for the time spent and detail provided. It's always nice to have a list of tools and some pointers for bolt/screw locations ahead of time. That way you're not pulling on a part thinking it should be free when there are still two hidden screws =)

Anyway, I just wanted to point out that I just ordered a re-foam kit for my sub, and removed the current sub. Everything went quite easily (I'm used to this type of work though, so that might help), but I did notice two differences from the original post. I'm mentioning them here in case anyone else is worried they are doing something wrong. Also, it would be a good idea to mention them in the main post(s).

I have a 2001 LS430, it is not the UL package, but does have the ML/Nav upgrade.
For the bolts that hold the car seat anchors, the main posts list them as 10mm, mine are 12mm.
For the screws that hold the pastic gasket onto the speaker, the main post mentions needing a torx bit. Mine were standard #2 phillips screws.

Other than that the only difference I can see is that I didn't pry the back deck/dash up to remove the sub. I pulled the back dash out. I didn't like the idea of bending it that much as a couple of points were being stressed more than I cared to see.

To remove the back dash, you have to push down in the far corners, push to the side on the support cover, and then the little locking tab will be disengaged. Do one side at a time. Push down on the dash towards the back, right next to the support arm, in the corner (a little more to the side, but towards the corner). You'll notice that a tab from the support arm cover sticks into a slot on back dash. I just pushed down on the deck until it cleared, then pushed again the support arm cover until the tab was outside the slot, then let up on the dash. Then I repeated for the other side.
Then you can pull the rear dash out a little. Don't pull it out all the way yet, the 3rd brake light is still connected. To remove the brake light, push on the inside edge of the light (push toward the rear glass). What I did was pulled out the rear dash a little, grabbed the light with my fingers on the far edge (close to the glass) and thumbs on the back edge. Then I could pinch a little with my thumbs and the back edge popped up. Then you can see it has hooks on the front edge and you can pull up and back to remove the light. Now you can grab the connector and disconnect it using the standard screwdriver (or your fingers if you can get the pressure on the tab correctly).
Now the deck can be pulled out. Be careful here. Do not pull the entire thing by the corners in the front. They are not fully secure. I pulled gently and evenly using the front edge near the middle (but out as far as it felt solid). I would pull a little and then push on the side support covers to make sure nothing was getting caught or scratched.
Slow and steady and it came free. It made getting at the sub MUCH easier. Plus now I can clean that far back edge of the rear dash that can be a pain sometimes.
The seat-belts are still attached at this point, so I just moved the dash forward and leaned it in place of where the rear seat normally goes.

Hope this helps if anyone was curious.

 

I'm also interested in a good replacement front door speaker, mine are rattling like the sub. I already did the caulk bandaid a while ago, don't wanna do that anymore. I will do a re-foam kit also, does anyone have a link for one I can order?