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I have a 2004 LS 430 with easy close I have a replacement part but when I took off the door panel it doesn't look right I was wondering if you can tell me what you had to do to remove the easy close mechanism so you could get to the door lock yhank you
Has anyone attempted to replace the Mabuchi Motor only to find that there was another part or issue to repair inside the actuator other than the motor?
I have a 2004 LS 430 with easy close I have a replacement part but when I took off the door panel it doesn't look right I was wondering if you can tell me what you had to do to remove the easy close mechanism so you could get to the door lock yhank you
Not sure about the replacement part you mentioned but i assume you're referring to the mabuchi part and your question is how to open the "actuator assembly" part# 69110 or 69120 [see enclosed image]. If my understanding is correct, all you need is to pry open as the plastic cover is glued together in the factory [just be careful not to break the cover as the actuator assembly is more than $550]. I your question is how to remove the actuator assembly from the door then go back to post# 272.
I've watched the procedure for replacing the small motor on You Tube. Some of you guys make it seem like a piece of cake, but to me it sure looks like a semi complicated task! Looks as if you make one mistake during the removal and reinstallation, it can be a whole lot of time and work to then take it apart again! I'l leave it to my Indy when the time does come....
Can the extreme daytime heat cause actuator to fail?
I’ve noticed that my driver’s front door actuator failure occurs during the extreme daytime heat. Once it cools off the door works again and doesn’t fail again. This has happened to me twice. Both times were during extreme sunny hot days in Florida. I read some posts discussing the door lock cable stretching during the heat and another post mentioning how the grease under heat affects the contacts at the motor. I certainly do not want to give my Indy the $10 motor only to find out it is not the problem. My door lock actuator has been working other than those extreme temperature days. FYI...During the actuator failing......I can always close the lock with the key or inside the door by manually pushing the plastic lock piece forward. Can anyone give me any feedback on the extreme heat on the door lock cable and/or the grease at certain contact points being the culprit for my intermittent driver’s actuator problem? Thanks all.
well, just finished this job on my UL. Took the day off from work to do it and glad i did. Drivers door wasn't locking or unlocking and only worked with the key. i first noticed this when my keyless entry wasn't working. i bought four of the little motors off amazon and started at 9:30 am and just finished at 1pm. Took my time. The hardest part was getting it back in with the window rail in the way. once i had the motor out i couldn't figure out how to undo the main harness so i left it all attached and i plopped it on a old pail and unscrewed everything and got the motor out and replaced.
I can verify that the UL has about 6 screws and about 5 screws with nuts, so it's much easier than what you see on that YouTube video. you have to take the whole thing apart so you can access some of the nuts to grab onto to get the screws out. once the cover was off, it was R&R.
I'm pretty mechanical, so i just dug into it, but MAN, this is a hell of a job. Took my time and laid all nuts and screws out so i knew where they went back in on all components including the door. Did this in 87F hot sun in the driveway sweating all to heck. Thought i was going to dehydrate. I guess better than doing it in -15F. Also noticed that there was some rust building up where the outside door trim attaches to on the inside of the door. Sprayed some rust guard on it as well as some grease and hope that it lasts for another couple years without door rust. Should be proactive and do the passenger side too, but it's too nice outside today
I’ve noticed that my driver’s front door actuator failure occurs during the extreme daytime heat. Once it cools off the door works again and doesn’t fail again. This has happened to me twice. Both times were during extreme sunny hot days in Florida. I read some posts discussing the door lock cable stretching during the heat and another post mentioning how the grease under heat affects the contacts at the motor. I certainly do not want to give my Indy the $10 motor only to find out it is not the problem. My door lock actuator has been working other than those extreme temperature days. FYI...During the actuator failing......I can always close the lock with the key or inside the door by manually pushing the plastic lock piece forward. Can anyone give me any feedback on the extreme heat on the door lock cable and/or the grease at certain contact points being the culprit for my intermittent driver’s actuator problem? Thanks all.
I don't think it's caused by the stretching of the cable. It's the typical symptom of the aged PTC thermistorbuilt in the actuator motor. You can see how it is installed in the motor viewing the post here.
I’ve noticed that my driver’s front door actuator failure occurs during the extreme daytime heat. Once it cools off the door works again and doesn’t fail again. This has happened to me twice. Both times were during extreme sunny hot days in Florida. I read some posts discussing the door lock cable stretching during the heat and another post mentioning how the grease under heat affects the contacts at the motor. I certainly do not want to give my Indy the $10 motor only to find out it is not the problem. My door lock actuator has been working other than those extreme temperature days. FYI...During the actuator failing......I can always close the lock with the key or inside the door by manually pushing the plastic lock piece forward. Can anyone give me any feedback on the extreme heat on the door lock cable and/or the grease at certain contact points being the culprit for my intermittent driver’s actuator problem? Thanks all.
I don't think it's caused by the stretching of the cable. It's the typical symptom of the aged PTC thermistorbuilt in the actuator motor. You can see how it is installed in the motor viewing the post here.
well, just finished this job on my UL. Took the day off from work to do it and glad i did. Drivers door wasn't locking or unlocking and only worked with the key. i first noticed this when my keyless entry wasn't working. i bought four of the little motors off amazon and started at 9:30 am and just finished at 1pm. Took my time. The hardest part was getting it back in with the window rail in the way. once i had the motor out i couldn't figure out how to undo the main harness so i left it all attached and i plopped it on a old pail and unscrewed everything and got the motor out and replaced.
I can verify that the UL has about 6 screws and about 5 screws with nuts, so it's much easier than what you see on that YouTube video. you have to take the whole thing apart so you can access some of the nuts to grab onto to get the screws out. once the cover was off, it was R&R.
I'm pretty mechanical, so i just dug into it, but MAN, this is a hell of a job. Took my time and laid all nuts and screws out so i knew where they went back in on all components including the door. Did this in 87F hot sun in the driveway sweating all to heck. Thought i was going to dehydrate. I guess better than doing it in -15F. Also noticed that there was some rust building up where the outside door trim attaches to on the inside of the door. Sprayed some rust guard on it as well as some grease and hope that it lasts for another couple years without door rust. Should be proactive and do the passenger side too, but it's too nice outside today
I had my soft close stop working and I couldn't even close my doors!! Early last year I had to take the thing out and it was horrible to do. I ended up "repairing" the latching part and it did OK for a while. The first time was so frustrating taking it out and putting it back in. I smashed my fingers so hard I thought I had broken one trying to get it in place. I eventually ended up buying a used one the 2nd time it broke. Its been OK since. Some things on the car can break and the car is still driveable. In this case the door would not latch and would swing open if you drove it! The UL doors are so heavy you can see how that would be. Thankfully the first time it broke in my driveway, and then the next time I had someone with me. The 2nd time someone had to sit in the backseat and hold the door the entire drive home.
I had my soft close stop working and I couldn't even close my doors!! Early last year I had to take the thing out and it was horrible to do. I ended up "repairing" the latching part and it did OK for a while. The first time was so frustrating taking it out and putting it back in. I smashed my fingers so hard I thought I had broken one trying to get it in place. I eventually ended up buying a used one the 2nd time it broke. Its been OK since. Some things on the car can break and the car is still driveable. In this case the door would not latch and would swing open if you drove it! The UL doors are so heavy you can see how that would be. Thankfully the first time it broke in my driveway, and then the next time I had someone with me. The 2nd time someone had to sit in the backseat and hold the door the entire drive home.
Glad your fingers are OK. Friday I actually had the panels of the garage door close on my left fingers completely. I immediately opened the door. Thank goodness, an electric opener would simply close completely and stay closed. My threshold for pain is reasonably high so I just went to work. All that just to take the recycling out because my wife put it in the garage. Anyone know why it's always the driver door? It seems like all 4 doors lock each time.
It's the drivers door 'cause it's Murphy's *****ing law. Which ever door you don't want it to happen to....it will happen too. I could still use my key to lock and unlock, but the drivers door wouldn't lock or unlock with the remote. Noticed it happening when it wouldn't beep anymore when pushing the lock button on the remote. Took my time, made sure all was in order and did the swap. Soooo happy to have keyless entry again.
about to order the motors and attempt this. my drivers work just the other 3 don't..
Triple check that the door handles and locks works I disconnected the battery than used a screw drive to push the latch on the door back to test the locks also make sure to leave a window that you’re not working on down so you don’t get locked out like me taking the assembly in and out is tricky re placing the motor is easier lol
Not sure if this has been discussed or detailed in the past, however, I felt it was really important to share with the group. I just replaced the motor in my driver's side door today. I was triple checking that everything was functioning properly when I discovered that I could not get the lock button to move to the fully unlocked position. It would lock, but not unlock. I tried to unlock by hand from inside the car, by key from outside, with the remote control and with the door unlock button. Nothing worked. I ended up disassembling everything a second time to figure out what I did wrong. Sure enough I installed the motor assembly back onto the actuator improperly. In the attached image, you can see that there are two holes in a gold colored piece of metal where the actuator arm from the motor assembly must be inserted into one of them. I made the mistake of inserting into the hole closer to the bottom of the actuator, this resulted in the actuator not moving enough to unlock the door. Upon shifting the motor assembly arm so it mated with the upper hole (left side in the photo), it allowed the actuator to move the full range and solved the problem.
MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU INSTALL THE MOTOR ASSEMBLY DRIVEN ARM BACK INTO THE CORRECT HOLE IN THE ACTUATOR!
You can also make verify that the actuator is working properly before reassembling the door. Hook it up electrically and actuate the locks. Make sure that the gold piece of metal with the two holes in it rotates all the way down until it hits the black bumper below it (on the right side of the photo). If it does not move far enough to hit the black rubber bumper, then something is amiss.
11-13-18 | 01:58 PM
