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So can someone please tell me if the $10 actuator will fix the problem if i have the easy close doors?
Most likely the motor will resolve your problem. If you are doing it yourself, just study the step by step process and you should be fine. You'll be saving a lot of money.
Question for all you experience door lock actuator replacement gurus: I used all of the information on this thread (and the youtube video) and replaced the driver side door actuator motor (recommended on this thread) last night. Everything worked fine for the first few locks / unlocks - However - now upon unlocking - the mechanism stutters - but still unlocks. The locking part works just fine. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to take it apart tonight and see if anything looks out of place - not sure what I'm looking for though. Maybe the motor is bad - so I'll swap that out (I bought the 4 pack on ebay) - and re-assemble everything.
I’m not sure if this will be helpful but I remember reading somewhere to be certain that after replacing the small motor to make sure when closing the plastic housing of the actuator that it is tight and secure or it will make noise. If you are taking it apart again it couldn’t hurt to check that out. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Question for all you experience door lock actuator replacement gurus: I used all of the information on this thread (and the youtube video) and replaced the driver side door actuator motor (recommended on this thread) last night. Everything worked fine for the first few locks / unlocks - However - now upon unlocking - the mechanism stutters - but still unlocks. The locking part works just fine. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to take it apart tonight and see if anything looks out of place - not sure what I'm looking for though. Maybe the motor is bad - so I'll swap that out (I bought the 4 pack on ebay) - and re-assemble everything.
Suggestions are welcome!
When you swapped out the motor did you feel it clip in to the 2 post connectors and did you put the little piece of foam on the motor hopefully its just a loose connection
Thanks Bsavage. Yes, I did feel it click into the two post connectors. However, I didn't replace the little foam pad....but I remember seeing it. I just did a simple swap of the motor and started the re-assembly process (just as in the youtube vid). I no longer have the old motor (garbage day today) - do you really think it was that important? Also - I don't remember which side of the motor the foam pad was located.
do you really think it was that important? Also - I don't remember which side of the motor the foam pad was located.
It prevents the motor from falling out of place its on the top side I’m pretty sure you can make something that would fit between. But then it could be 50/50 bad motor or the motor is not making a good connection also maybe check the black cable with the white tip that goes to the lock mechanism on the door card maybe it was clipped in to short maybe try to pull it back a bit then clip it in
Update - I removed the lock actuator assembly last night, and it was pretty clear what what happening. The housing that contains the motor (the one you need to pry apart) was not staying completely closed - allowing the motor and worm gear to move slightly. I cleaned off all the edges and applied some super glue and a couple of clamps for a couple hours to allow for the glue to set up. Re-installed the lock actuator assembly and it works just fine. So - for anyone attempting this job, I would highly recommend gluing the two parts of the plastic motor housing to prevent future functionality issues.
Update - I removed the lock actuator assembly last night, and it was pretty clear what what happening. The housing that contains the motor (the one you need to pry apart) was not staying completely closed - allowing the motor and worm gear to move slightly. I cleaned off all the edges and applied some super glue and a couple of clamps for a couple hours to allow for the glue to set up. Re-installed the lock actuator assembly and it works just fine. So - for anyone attempting this job, I would highly recommend gluing the two parts of the plastic motor housing to prevent future functionality issues.
Sounds related to my post #364. I'm glad it worked out for you.
Got a situation here. Did the passangers side lock actuator, everything is fine. But when i reassembled the door and tried it out, the window is having problems. It closes halfway and slows down. Then Dosent move. I turn the car off and on and it let's me move it some. I disassembled and reassembled the window rail in the door. It seems fine. Any ideas? Thanks.
Okay i was informed that the window didn't work previously. Onto the next problem. I did the drivers door, now the key lock won't unlock when turned. Power locks work, remote works. Outer key lock don't.
Okay i was informed that the window didn't work previously. Onto the next problem. I did the drivers door, now the key lock won't unlock when turned. Power locks work, remote works. Outer key lock don't.
you didnt line the key hole clip from the actuator it slips into place with the exterior key hole, take it back out and make sure it slips into place its hard for me to explain
door actuator on the left door handle and key hole in the middle thats the part u didnt line up so that why the key hole dont work
you didnt line the key hole clip from the actuator it slips into place with the exterior key hole, take it back out and make sure it slips into place its hard for me to explain
door actuator on the left door handle and key hole in the middle thats the part u didnt line up so that why the key hole dont work
Good morning, thank you for the response. I had actually failed to clip the Golden rod back into the door handle mechanism. Here's some photos of assembled passangers and drivers actuators in case anyone needs, it helped me with reassembly. Pass with cover Pass Pass
09-10-19, 10:12 AM
