52K and this already?
#31
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If it says GM, it's Dex III unless they've got 10 year old NOS. Dex II has been superceded for a long time now. All GM is Dexron, just like Type F is Ford.
Honestly it's really frustrating how many different ATF swills there are in the marketplace. It surely isn't as standard as it could/should be.
Honestly it's really frustrating how many different ATF swills there are in the marketplace. It surely isn't as standard as it could/should be.
#32
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If it says GM, it's Dex III unless they've got 10 year old NOS. Dex II has been superceded for a long time now. All GM is Dexron, just like Type F is Ford.
Honestly it's really frustrating how many different ATF swills there are in the marketplace. It surely isn't as standard as it could/should be.
Honestly it's really frustrating how many different ATF swills there are in the marketplace. It surely isn't as standard as it could/should be.
EDIT: I dont know what to think anymore!!! My order was placed and now it's on its way. I might have to return it. hypthetically speeking- What if I insisted on ONLY genuine toyota fluid (yes I know they don't make their own fluid) which one would i have to buy to put in my PS system? All these Fluids are so stupid!
Last edited by Lust4Lexus; 09-22-10 at 11:43 PM.
#33
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I know Dex II or III is NOT a substitute for T-IV. Some Supra owners screwed themselves on this a long time ago. I don't know if T-IV is fully compatible substitute for Dex II or III. Industry people all say Dex III replaces Dex II without question (at least they did when John Cribb and I were looking for Dex II for the Getrag gearboxes in Supras), but I can't say one way or another if T-IV is suitable. In all likelihood, it will be fine - the power steering system isn't anywhere near as finicky as an auto gearbox. If it were mine, I'd just put Mobil 1 Synthetic Dex III in it and call it a day. That's also what I'm running in my Getrag these days and it has worked perfectly for the last 6 years.
#34
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Lots of great info and tips here fr om posters. I will definitely get a couple of syringe deals at the feed store. Thanks
#35
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So I cancelled the order for the the type IV fluid. I will use the mobil 1 synthetic ATF fluid instead. Now my local parts store only carries mobil 1 mercon V, synthetic ATF, but it says on he back that I cam be used in any power steerin system that calls for dexron fluid. Should I purchase or keep hunting for bottles that say specifically dexron? From what I can tell, this is the newest mobil syn ATF fluid- but is it right for my ps system. Good greif. I know it says so on the bottle, but I've turned into a pansy with this car and only want to do it by the book.
#36
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That will work fine... I've been running the Mobil1 full synthetic ATF in my older LS's power steering for a couple years. Like you said, it's Dexron/Mercon compatible which is what you need.
#37
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Okay-
I just the first increment of my Ps fluid "flush". I am using the Mobil One Synthetic ATF, multi vehicle (in the new bottle). As I started to evacuate the old fluid, and it started going through the hose, it was not black as originally would have believed. It was actually a caramel-cola colored fluid. I read on one of the numerous threads elsewhere, that toyota factory fluid is light brown in color. You can see in this picture that it may or may not have been that bad. Switching to sythetic anyway.
The PS pump I believe has an ever so slight whine at idle, which I hear when i listen for it when the hood is open. Ity also makes a quite shhhhhh noise when i turn the wheel to either extreme, but then again, all my cars have done that. It's too early to tell if there will be any improvement in steering feel/perfomace, as some have stated, as I have only exchanged about 8 ounces. I will do another increment in 2 days.
I just the first increment of my Ps fluid "flush". I am using the Mobil One Synthetic ATF, multi vehicle (in the new bottle). As I started to evacuate the old fluid, and it started going through the hose, it was not black as originally would have believed. It was actually a caramel-cola colored fluid. I read on one of the numerous threads elsewhere, that toyota factory fluid is light brown in color. You can see in this picture that it may or may not have been that bad. Switching to sythetic anyway.
The PS pump I believe has an ever so slight whine at idle, which I hear when i listen for it when the hood is open. Ity also makes a quite shhhhhh noise when i turn the wheel to either extreme, but then again, all my cars have done that. It's too early to tell if there will be any improvement in steering feel/perfomace, as some have stated, as I have only exchanged about 8 ounces. I will do another increment in 2 days.
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The fluid in my PS reservoir on my 06 LS (with 25k) miles is pinkish red with no brown coloration - looks like almost new dextron. No hint of brown or cola color and I am almost 100% sure it is factory OEM original fluid. What are you using for the pump?...looks pretty cool.
#39
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For foaming or emulsification of the fluid (I'm no mechanic, but I understand this to be normal in power steering systems), the repair procedure is to bleed air from the system.
3. BLEED AIR IN POWER STEERING SYSTEM
NOTICE:
If you replace or separate the components for power steering
oil pressure line, bleed air in the power steering system
after the operation.
Jack up front of vehicle and support with stands
With the engine off, turn steering wheel slowly from lock to lock several times
Lower vehicle
Start engine
(a) Idle the engine at 1,000 rpm or less until bubbles in the
fluid disappear. (Be sure not to turn the steering wheel.)
(b) When the bubbles disappear, slowly turn the steering
wheel from lock to lock 2 to 3 times, keeping it at full lock position for 2-3 seconds each time.
(c) Repeat procedures (a) and (b) until the fluid level in the
reservoir becomes stable and bubbles disappear. If the
fluid level goes below the MAX line, add fluid.
(d) When the fluid level becomes stable, increase and decrease
oil pressure 2 or 3 times for both left and right by
turning the steering wheel to the full lock positions and jiggling
it there.
(e) Make sure that no bubbles exist in the reservoir. When
turning the steering wheel quickly or turning it from lock
to lock position, check that the steering wheel is not heavy
to turn and there is no abnormal noise or vibration.
(f) When there are fluid leaks or abnormalities after bleeding
air, repair them and repeat procedures (a) to (e). If the abnormalities
still exist, replace the related parts.
3. BLEED AIR IN POWER STEERING SYSTEM
NOTICE:
If you replace or separate the components for power steering
oil pressure line, bleed air in the power steering system
after the operation.
Jack up front of vehicle and support with stands
With the engine off, turn steering wheel slowly from lock to lock several times
Lower vehicle
Start engine
(a) Idle the engine at 1,000 rpm or less until bubbles in the
fluid disappear. (Be sure not to turn the steering wheel.)
(b) When the bubbles disappear, slowly turn the steering
wheel from lock to lock 2 to 3 times, keeping it at full lock position for 2-3 seconds each time.
(c) Repeat procedures (a) and (b) until the fluid level in the
reservoir becomes stable and bubbles disappear. If the
fluid level goes below the MAX line, add fluid.
(d) When the fluid level becomes stable, increase and decrease
oil pressure 2 or 3 times for both left and right by
turning the steering wheel to the full lock positions and jiggling
it there.
(e) Make sure that no bubbles exist in the reservoir. When
turning the steering wheel quickly or turning it from lock
to lock position, check that the steering wheel is not heavy
to turn and there is no abnormal noise or vibration.
(f) When there are fluid leaks or abnormalities after bleeding
air, repair them and repeat procedures (a) to (e). If the abnormalities
still exist, replace the related parts.
#41
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#42
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For foaming or emulsification of the fluid (I'm no mechanic, but I understand this to be normal in power steering systems), the repair procedure is to bleed air from the system.
3. BLEED AIR IN POWER STEERING SYSTEM
NOTICE:
If you replace or separate the components for power steering
oil pressure line, bleed air in the power steering system
after the operation.
Jack up front of vehicle and support with stands
With the engine off, turn steering wheel slowly from lock to lock several times
Lower vehicle
Start engine
(a) Idle the engine at 1,000 rpm or less until bubbles in the
fluid disappear. (Be sure not to turn the steering wheel.)
(b) When the bubbles disappear, slowly turn the steering
wheel from lock to lock 2 to 3 times, keeping it at full lock position for 2-3 seconds each time.
(c) Repeat procedures (a) and (b) until the fluid level in the
reservoir becomes stable and bubbles disappear. If the
fluid level goes below the MAX line, add fluid.
(d) When the fluid level becomes stable, increase and decrease
oil pressure 2 or 3 times for both left and right by
turning the steering wheel to the full lock positions and jiggling
it there.
(e) Make sure that no bubbles exist in the reservoir. When
turning the steering wheel quickly or turning it from lock
to lock position, check that the steering wheel is not heavy
to turn and there is no abnormal noise or vibration.
(f) When there are fluid leaks or abnormalities after bleeding
air, repair them and repeat procedures (a) to (e). If the abnormalities
still exist, replace the related parts.
3. BLEED AIR IN POWER STEERING SYSTEM
NOTICE:
If you replace or separate the components for power steering
oil pressure line, bleed air in the power steering system
after the operation.
Jack up front of vehicle and support with stands
With the engine off, turn steering wheel slowly from lock to lock several times
Lower vehicle
Start engine
(a) Idle the engine at 1,000 rpm or less until bubbles in the
fluid disappear. (Be sure not to turn the steering wheel.)
(b) When the bubbles disappear, slowly turn the steering
wheel from lock to lock 2 to 3 times, keeping it at full lock position for 2-3 seconds each time.
(c) Repeat procedures (a) and (b) until the fluid level in the
reservoir becomes stable and bubbles disappear. If the
fluid level goes below the MAX line, add fluid.
(d) When the fluid level becomes stable, increase and decrease
oil pressure 2 or 3 times for both left and right by
turning the steering wheel to the full lock positions and jiggling
it there.
(e) Make sure that no bubbles exist in the reservoir. When
turning the steering wheel quickly or turning it from lock
to lock position, check that the steering wheel is not heavy
to turn and there is no abnormal noise or vibration.
(f) When there are fluid leaks or abnormalities after bleeding
air, repair them and repeat procedures (a) to (e). If the abnormalities
still exist, replace the related parts.
I was told that this should be done only if you remove a hose, thus introducing air into the system. I did not remove any hoses. Also, I don't have jack stands to do this and dont really want to flatten my tires multiple times.
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#43
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Thanks Abs.
From what I have learned, the type IV is a dexron based oil and has replaced the other other oils once recomended. it is basically the same oil, but with better properties, for what it's worth. For example you can use type IV in a unit that calls for Dex III, but not vice versa. Today, on my goose chase for ATF, the auto parts store did not even carry Dexron III! Also, the local toyota parts department only carried the WS or type IV fluid. I'm pretty sure that the type IV is fine for the PS unit.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mai...nny-fluid.html
From what I have learned, the type IV is a dexron based oil and has replaced the other other oils once recomended. it is basically the same oil, but with better properties, for what it's worth. For example you can use type IV in a unit that calls for Dex III, but not vice versa. Today, on my goose chase for ATF, the auto parts store did not even carry Dexron III! Also, the local toyota parts department only carried the WS or type IV fluid. I'm pretty sure that the type IV is fine for the PS unit.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mai...nny-fluid.html
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#44
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![](http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/chemicals/M-1_ATF_new_front.jpg)
![](http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/chemicals/M-1_ATF_new_rear.jpg)
However, someone above said that you can not use Dexron VI in power steering systems. So do I need to go get something else? This Mobil 1 says its pretty much compatible with everything and "Recommended for use in any power steering unit where a DEXRON or MERCON fluid is recommended". I sure as heck could not find ANY Dex III in my local AutoZone.
So did I uh... just break my car? I barely got one evacuation and refill done so far (there was still some old fluid left in the cavities of the canister).
Last edited by Playdrv4me; 09-23-10 at 12:45 PM.
#45
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Playdrv4me-
I think that is absoutely fine. I got this one- Which I believe is the same fluid, but in a newer packaging- It just depends on the stock of your store. iphone pics- sorry
I think that is absoutely fine. I got this one- Which I believe is the same fluid, but in a newer packaging- It just depends on the stock of your store. iphone pics- sorry