Introduction - '05 Wald LS430
#61
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Folks,
Am planning to do a tranny fluid change.
Do I need the Toyota Type IV or WS for this car?
I believe it has a 5 speed Auto as on the gear lever ir says D-4.
Thanks
Am planning to do a tranny fluid change.
Do I need the Toyota Type IV or WS for this car?
I believe it has a 5 speed Auto as on the gear lever ir says D-4.
Thanks
#63
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Congrats on the new car. It's nice to see pics of a supercharged LS430 - they are quite rare. I see you have a manual nav bypass switch installed - what kind is it? It looks slightly different from the Prestigious Society bypass.
As the others have said above, the headlight and taillight design are from 2001-2003, and those years use Type T-IV fluid (08886-81015). 2004 and higher LS430s use WS (JWS3324 or NWS9638).
You can run the VIN at www.decodethis.com or www.carfax.com to find the actual year of your car.
I don't know about Kuala Lumpur, but in North America, replacement rotors can be obtained for a decent price. OEM front rotors are 43512-50220, rears 42431-50070. Run those part numbers against the URLs at https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...tanvandam.html to see what the going price is.
If OEM rotors are expensive in your area, aftermarket rotors are usually much cheaper. If you don't race often with your car, OEM rotors would be fine. If you do a lot of hard braking and/or want the looks of a cross-drilled rotor, make sure you get one manufactured to SAE specs for chemistry and hardness, without the use of secondary scrap (tungsten, vanadium, etc). OEM works fine for me and several other people here.
"Slotting is the preferred method in most racing environments to remove gas, water, and de-glaze brake pads. Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads; however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces."
"For heat dissipation purposes, cross drilling is still used on some braking components, but is not favored for racing or other hard use as the holes are a source of stress cracks under severe conditions. Cross-drilled discs may eventually crack at the holes due to metal fatigue. Cross-drilled brakes that are manufactured poorly or subjected to high stresses will crack much sooner and more severely."
-- https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikiped...iki/Disc_brake
As the others have said above, the headlight and taillight design are from 2001-2003, and those years use Type T-IV fluid (08886-81015). 2004 and higher LS430s use WS (JWS3324 or NWS9638).
I don't know about Kuala Lumpur, but in North America, replacement rotors can be obtained for a decent price. OEM front rotors are 43512-50220, rears 42431-50070. Run those part numbers against the URLs at https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...tanvandam.html to see what the going price is.
If OEM rotors are expensive in your area, aftermarket rotors are usually much cheaper. If you don't race often with your car, OEM rotors would be fine. If you do a lot of hard braking and/or want the looks of a cross-drilled rotor, make sure you get one manufactured to SAE specs for chemistry and hardness, without the use of secondary scrap (tungsten, vanadium, etc). OEM works fine for me and several other people here.
"Slotting is the preferred method in most racing environments to remove gas, water, and de-glaze brake pads. Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads; however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces."
"For heat dissipation purposes, cross drilling is still used on some braking components, but is not favored for racing or other hard use as the holes are a source of stress cracks under severe conditions. Cross-drilled discs may eventually crack at the holes due to metal fatigue. Cross-drilled brakes that are manufactured poorly or subjected to high stresses will crack much sooner and more severely."
-- https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikiped...iki/Disc_brake
#65
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Thanks [KIRAX]
[STANVANDAM] [I see you have a manual nav bypass switch installed - what kind is it? It looks slightly different from the Prestigious Society bypass.]
- Am not too sure which switch you are referring too.. Is this the one right at the bottom? btw, what does a manual nav bypass switch to?![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
- As for the Transmission fluid, my mechanic told me Type WS but when I checked and from your inputs, all 5 speed Auto's for the LS430 should use Type IV..
- Tried using www.decodethis.com but the vin number was wrong.
- The engine number is 3UZ0011420 and the Chasis number is UCF30-0004896. Can you help?
- Am planning to get the rotors and pads from Tirerack. They have recommended HAWK or ATE..
Cheers
[STANVANDAM] [I see you have a manual nav bypass switch installed - what kind is it? It looks slightly different from the Prestigious Society bypass.]
- Am not too sure which switch you are referring too.. Is this the one right at the bottom? btw, what does a manual nav bypass switch to?
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
- As for the Transmission fluid, my mechanic told me Type WS but when I checked and from your inputs, all 5 speed Auto's for the LS430 should use Type IV..
- Tried using www.decodethis.com but the vin number was wrong.
- The engine number is 3UZ0011420 and the Chasis number is UCF30-0004896. Can you help?
- Am planning to get the rotors and pads from Tirerack. They have recommended HAWK or ATE..
Cheers
#66
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tien is a hugely popular company for making suspension parts and now a lot of other parts too. if you can turn one of your front wheels all the way out and get a little cell phone camera in there and snap a pic i can tell you or we could tell you if its coilovers or just springs. with coilovers you can adjust it yourself and get it to go lower or a mechanic can do it very easily, if its springs then the options are a lot smaller for lowering more.
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[sojah] Turned the wheel today and yes... The Tien coilovers are already installed
Base on the pic how much lower would you suggest droppint the car without comprimising comfort and the ocassional speed hump/ elevated parking lots..
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#69
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just test it out and see what you are comfortable with and go from there. drop it 1-2" inches (i vote for more like a 2.5" drop
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I would love to have a super super low car but for my daily driving its getting pretty close presently to being the acceptable limit since it will scrape the nose a little going into and out of certain driveways presently.
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Thanks guys.
Took a 300 mile drive over the week and the brakes went dead.. Thank GOD it was at a low speed. Turned out one of the brake hoses were rubbing against the rims and popped. Replaced with a new steel braided hose.
[Sojah] Will be lowering the Tien Absorbers about an inch. As you can see on the picture, my driveway's pretty steep so don't think the car can go any lower.
Took a 300 mile drive over the week and the brakes went dead.. Thank GOD it was at a low speed. Turned out one of the brake hoses were rubbing against the rims and popped. Replaced with a new steel braided hose.
[Sojah] Will be lowering the Tien Absorbers about an inch. As you can see on the picture, my driveway's pretty steep so don't think the car can go any lower.