Hope it goes easy and that it goes well. It would be cool for you to post back on how it went and on lessons learned.

 

Just had this done on my 2002 LS430. Both valve seals were replaced due to leaking (hey, it has 105000 miles so it is just part of the deal) and the spark plug tube gasket. Not bad but it was part of a "water pump" redo. Did the "buddy" thing on the original timing belt and water pump but he installed the pump incorrectly and had to redo it. Still, love my LS and looking to tweak performance and could use some suggestions. Put in a K&N High Flow Air Filter. Just sticking my toes in the water on enhancements. Any suggestions that won't breakt he bank.

Jim Ryan

 

Next relatively cheap power upgrade would be an exhaust. PPE headers,backed with a custom aftermarket system. Use variable rear mufflers if you're concerned about volume,or don't want it to be louder all the time.

Beyond that you enter the arena of diminishing returns unless you go to forced induction.


Justin...

 

They didnt break your seals doing the 90k service, they dont need to remove the valve cover. The tube seals come in the fel pro valve cover gasket set. Its standard that they are replaced with the gaskets, thats why they quoted both. The whole job should cost under 100 labor IMO.

 

add 100 for plugs and $600 for labor????? Starting to mull the job and there is a lot of room to work in the engine bay.... I will post lots of pics and detail the job....

 

When I say what things should cost- thats because ill do it myself if its more than that. And its always more than that. Ive brought a car to a mechanic 3 times in the past 20 years and once of 3 I was very unhappy. the other 2 were welding jobs that I dont know how to do.

25.00 seems a fair labor rate to me, Thats book time. Any good mechanic can get jobs done waay under book time. But there are sometimes pain in the *** jobs. Thats where a lift and torch come in handy. Lexus charging 5 hours book time at 100 per hour for jobs they finish quick is a ripoff.

 

^^ I'm similar. I'll only farm out jobs that I don't have the gear for,or if it's urgent and I don't have the time.

The only stuff I regularly get others to do are rego inspections, wheel alignments and tyres. I used to do my own regos as well,but am out of the trade now...


Justin...

 

Although I haven't changed out the VC gasket/tube seals on a LS430, I've changed out many VC gaskets and tube seals on various cars. You shouldn't have to use a socket and hammer to get the tube seals to seat into their location on the valve cover (that is a method mainly for installing bearing seals). All you have to do is take out the old tube seal / valve cover gasket. . .check the recessed area (area where the gaskets/seals seat) to ensure that no old gasket material is present (if so, use the appropriate tool(s) to remove the old gasket material), then install the new gasket / tube seals. If you're worried about the gasket/seals falling out upon assembly of VC to head, then you can apply a small portion of silicone to it (but that shouldn't really be necessary as the VC is recessed in a manner to 'hold' the seals).

Now again, i haven't changed out the VC gasket / tube seals on an LS430, but this procedure is rather universal across all cars. . . I'm not quite sure what the previous poster was referring to when they said to be sure to press the tabs back after installing the tube seals. Hope this helps you on your quest to DIY.

 

Looking at the tube seals and the gaskets, looks very straight forward. The valve covers also have a lot of room with work with. There is a minor part to remove on the passenger side...(EGR I think) and pretty much home free on the drivers... pictures to follow but I am tied up for the next two weeks.... Pictures to follow!

 

Any update on this? I just got my car back from the shop and they said my valve covers are leaking. I was quoted around 330 plus tax. Would prefer to tackle this job myself if possible. Some pics would really go a long way towards making my decision. Thanks in advance.

 

did you check yourself to be sure?
did they say how bad?
what service did they perform to come to this conclusion?
do you smell oil burning when you drive?
how many miles on your car?

Im not knocking your shop you use but i'm always sceptical about what shop techs tell someone

since you are considering tackling this yourself, be sure and inspect and clean as much as you can - drive the car for a couple of days - let the engine cool and just check around using thin nitrile gloves (or your bare fingers, that's up to you) to see if you pick up any oil or residue.

if nothing, drive the car for an entire week and repeat the proccess - but if you do find oil residue then your gasket material has been compromised. now some will say (even me) that you can
tighten each Valve cover bolt by a quarter to a half turn (following the bolt pattern proccess preferably) and this will stop the leak for some time, or make it worse. depending on the degradation of the gasket material (age, temp, oil type, blah blah blah).

but giving the easeness and low expense of replacing the valve cover gaskets,ld give this a difficulty of 3 out of 10 for any DIYer.

wish I had pics to share but im sure an online manual would do - im sure someone on this site has shared before.

 

I have an independent Lexus/Toyota guy that does all my work. He has serviced my Land Cruiser for over 2 years and an ES that I had for 10 months. I do trust the guy.

Since I just bought this car a little over a month ago, I asked him to give it a thorough look over to see about any items that need to be replaced or that are leaking. He also told me that my front lower control arm bushings should be replaced in the next few months since they look pretty worn. I hadn't noticed any funny sounds coming from the suspension though. That job was quoted at 280 plus tax. I don't have access to a press so I am going to let him perform that one.

I did look and there is some oil residue showing. I intend to clean it up and then drive it a few days like you suggested. Will check it again after that. I had the same problem with my LC and tightening the bolts stopped the leak. Hoping this will be the case with the LS as well.

I have some mechanical knowledge and feel that I could tackle this job with some instructions. it does look fairly straightforward. Not too much stuff has to be removed to access all the bolts. I changed my starter in the LC with printed step by step instructions even though I had never even changed my own oil before that.

I have looked for used service manuals but haven't had much luck other than 160 from Helm ( which I would rather not pay that much) and TIS which seems expensive unless you can print out and save the PDF files for later use.

Are there any items I should be concerned with when replacing the gaskets? I will probably replace the PCV valve since I have to remove it to remove the cover anyways. Any tips or comments are welcomed. Thanks for your advice.

 

had mine replaced by JM lexus with labor $600. One was leaking so I said ***** it and did both

 

I had my both valve cover gaskets done at the dealer at 89k for $630 if I remember correctly.

 

Spoke with my mechanic and he said that they usually don't replace the tube seals until the car has over 200K unless they have become hard. He said that is a more involved process. Unless I get in there and the tube seals are hard, I am only going to change the valve cover gaskets.

I am ordering the gaskets from Sewell and will do my best to do a write up with pics. May be a few weeks though since I don't have a free weekend for a little while.