Poor results of fender rolling
06-08-12, 08:47 AM
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Poor results of fender rolling
I got new tires put on my wheels and they rubbed the rear fender, so the tire shop did a mild roll of the lip but it didn't turn out well, there is still a slight rub on the left side. Also there is a bit of waviness to the fender now. I have a 20x10 wheel with 40mm offset, and a 285/30 tire.
I've searched for info on fender rolling here but came up kinda dry, even though I seem to remember seeing tons of threads about it. Does anyone know to what extent the lip can be rolled on the LS430? I'm thinking about returning to the tire shop and have them try again but I don't want the fender looking worse than it already does.
I've searched for info on fender rolling here but came up kinda dry, even though I seem to remember seeing tons of threads about it. Does anyone know to what extent the lip can be rolled on the LS430? I'm thinking about returning to the tire shop and have them try again but I don't want the fender looking worse than it already does.
06-08-12, 09:51 AM
#2
Rear fenders will exhibit deformation because of the "dual layer" construction & tabs on the quarter panel. It's usually best to shave the rears. Mine were actually pulled beyond their normal shape to accommodate the 20x11 +12 rear wheels along w/ -6 degrees of camber. Mine are a bit deformed as well.
You can either have them roll more of the fender or switch to a smaller tire.
You can either have them roll more of the fender or switch to a smaller tire.
06-08-12, 10:10 AM
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I bit the bullet and ordered the Eastwood fender rolling tool. Saw a post by some guy on a VIP car forum that convinced me to just do it myself:
"shaving, long term you ask? well, if you look closely there are spot welds along the lip of the quarter panel where the inner wheel well and outer quarter panel are joined. if you shave or cut off the lip, totally cutting off the area with spot welds, you now dont have anything holding the 2 panels together anymore. sure nothing may not happen right after you cut it, maybe not a month, or 6 months, but it will buckle and separate.... then what? our cars arent made with a full frame that the body bolts to, every panel of the car helps hold the car together, why else would there he spot welds there.
if cutting the lip is what you want to do, then i would recommend after cutting you go back and weld the 2 panels back together. small welds, dress them by grinding and coat them with some anti-rust. but if you are going to be doing bodywork, you might as well roll the lip flat and bodywork the portion where the screw holes are...
before i went crazy with rolling and pulling my rears, i was *****ing around to see if i could fix that problem area where the screw holes are. after you roll the lip flat you will have a dent where the screw holes are, i placed my fender rolling tool right on that spot and forced that dent out the where there was no dent and felt perfect in comparison to the rest of the arch. then i heated the area, and the area around it, pretty hot and left it to air cool for like 30mins. came back, took the tool off and no more dent. repeat on the other dented areas. or you can heat the dented area, pull it out, and shock the metal in to that position using a cold water soaked rag.
as metal gets hot, the metal molecules expand. as it air dries, they contract to its normal state. if while its hot and the molecules are expanded and you shock it with cold water it tends to stay in that position cuz the molecules dont have time to contract....
ask me how i know...."
"shaving, long term you ask? well, if you look closely there are spot welds along the lip of the quarter panel where the inner wheel well and outer quarter panel are joined. if you shave or cut off the lip, totally cutting off the area with spot welds, you now dont have anything holding the 2 panels together anymore. sure nothing may not happen right after you cut it, maybe not a month, or 6 months, but it will buckle and separate.... then what? our cars arent made with a full frame that the body bolts to, every panel of the car helps hold the car together, why else would there he spot welds there.
if cutting the lip is what you want to do, then i would recommend after cutting you go back and weld the 2 panels back together. small welds, dress them by grinding and coat them with some anti-rust. but if you are going to be doing bodywork, you might as well roll the lip flat and bodywork the portion where the screw holes are...
before i went crazy with rolling and pulling my rears, i was *****ing around to see if i could fix that problem area where the screw holes are. after you roll the lip flat you will have a dent where the screw holes are, i placed my fender rolling tool right on that spot and forced that dent out the where there was no dent and felt perfect in comparison to the rest of the arch. then i heated the area, and the area around it, pretty hot and left it to air cool for like 30mins. came back, took the tool off and no more dent. repeat on the other dented areas. or you can heat the dented area, pull it out, and shock the metal in to that position using a cold water soaked rag.
as metal gets hot, the metal molecules expand. as it air dries, they contract to its normal state. if while its hot and the molecules are expanded and you shock it with cold water it tends to stay in that position cuz the molecules dont have time to contract....
ask me how i know...."
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