I have been replacing speakers in my cars for 35 years. In almost every case the new speakers (even exact same size speakers) will not be a perfect exact fit for the existing mounting holes, brackets, wire length, connections, etc. So any install is likely take a bit of head scratching, some creativity, and some mechanical ingenuity to create a good solid workable install for the new speakers. Modifications can involve drilling new holes for mounting screws, grinding away some plastic (or metal) on internal trim and/or OEM speaker mounts, increasing speaker wire length, or making new mounting plates, adding spacers and gaskets,etc. It does not have to be pretty since its all internal but it has to be functional acoustically and mechanically solid..these are parts that vibrate and shake so they will come loose and rattle unless the job is done right. .

 

I have to agree with Jabberwock, the finished project had better be solid or the woofer will vibrate and mess up your sound. I have used sealer, silicone, around the edge of the mounting plate and then fastened it with the screws. I figured it would keep the speaker solidly in the frame.
Seemed to work on the speakers I have replaced over the years.
Tweeters don't seem to have the same problems probably because the woofer wants to dance when you turn it up.

 

I'm in the same boat with my Subwoofer on my 04 LS430. I've tried the glue fix around the speaker but its past that. Dealer in Australia wants $470 for new sub (part only) and wouldn't even give me the part number!!

I'm going to replace mine with a new factory OEM sub. I don't want to mess around with the system so I'm going OEM but still searching for a better price overseas but without the part number I couldn't be sure of a correct fit. I was so mad I decided to attempt to remove the sub myself so I could get the part number.

I've read all the forums with pictures and attempted to remove rear sub. I did not find it easy at all . In Australia I have the equivalent of the Ultra Luxury model with rear blind, reclining and cooled seats and the 2 air purifier grilles that look like speakers on the rear deck. I had to be REALLY careful and I couldn't lift up the rear deck very much even after partially removing the seats. I couldn't remove the air purifier grilles but I managed to force up the rear deck and remove the speaker after a few hours!!. Mine is an 8 inch sub with part number 86160-0W260. I'm really confused coz I checked the internet and there seems to be 10 inch subs for the LS430 with the same part number! I think these are for earlier models but it probably wont fit mine so I'm looking for an 8 inch Mark Levinson sub - I'm waiting on a reply from a Lexus dealer in the USA

It will be slightly easier to go through the process again and install a new sub, but it's not something I'll enjoy - that rear deck is very fragile!!

 

I too was considering replacing my rear sub with a new one over 2 years ago. The glue thing only lasted so long. Instead, I lucked out and had a audio tech from a local shop refoam the sub. It still took him awhile removing and replacing the seat and refoaming the speaker but ended up saving me hundreds as well as the peace of mind that I don't have any concerns about my amp acting up if I had gone the aftermarket route. I did replace both front door speakers with OEM speakers. They were not real expensive at about $200 for both with $50 labor to get them installed.

 

Here is a 8 inch woofer spec'ed at 12 ohms - you don't see these come up every day. If I had an older LS430 with the dreaded ML sub in it I'd very likely get these just in case at these prices.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Peerless-SKO...item35b3d9d24a

 

Yay I finally fixed mine.

I went with Factory OEM. Some say its expensive but it was worth it to me.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ml#post7440518

 

My GX with the ML sound system sub started to crack a little. After some searches I found that it was the foam around the sub cone. You can purchase the foam for all the cones in your car and many other cones for cheap. Oh by cheap I mean 30 buck for the foam, glue and instructions on how to remove the foam and install the new. The panel removal you need to go to Harbor freight and buy some plastic clip removal tools for 30 bucks and find a lexus diagram site for removal proceedures, I am new here so I don't know if i can give email or numbers so let me know.
Thumpin sub and front door speakers now!

 

Has anyone actually figured out why these go bad? Mine wasn't working at all at the dealership, but today on my way home from work it was on for a couple min. then stopped working. I've currently got the whole trunk torn apart trying to source the problem... Help?

 

Jabberwock, With that link I think I am only coming up with 12 inch subwoofers?

 

nackers - your amp is blown probably. BIG money

 

Here are a couple of 8 ohm models that likely would work reasonably well. The main thing is to avoid 4 ohm and lower rated speakers.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-100

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...m_campaign=pla

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pyle-Pro-PMW8A-8-Paper-Cone-Mid-woofer-/380464478412?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item58957338cc

 

I couldn't find anything going on in the trunk. Checked all the connections and everything seemed good. The next morning it was working again for a few hours but the following day it didn't work.

Still seems like a loose connection to me and I'm curious if maybe the coil on the sub is to blame.

Does that sound likely?

Or, does anyone know where I can get a pinout of the stock amp so I can run some tests with my dvom?

 

Thank you!

 

Are these sub models plug and play? Do they still require modifications to allow them to bolt up to the factory slot?

I would love this forum to have a sort of updated FAQ about replacement subs.

I've seen information all over the place, from some people saying you can drop in a certain aftermarket sub with zero modifications, to some people saying it will blow your amp, to you have to make a new bracket from scratch, to you have to wire it a different way, etc.

I would love to drop in an aftermarket sub and be done with it, but if I have to make my own housing, or risk frying the factory amp with a different ohm sub, I'll probably just allow myself to get ripped off and buy an OEM one that is also sure to disintegrate in a few short years.

Right now, I'm on the original one with the "Liquid Electrical Tape". I'd say it's an "80% fix", for most music, it's like new, but a few select songs when it's pushed, you can hear a bit of "flapping". Still, it took the sub from being completely unlistenable to "good enough".

 

Thanks to the ML (actually just crappy Harmon Kardon stuff - there is no such thing as ML in car audio for last 25 years ) proprietary components in the LS there are no plug and play speakers that I know of for the LS430. And in almost every case replacement speakers for any car is going to take light modification to the mount for the new speakers. Primary consideration is overall diameter of the speaker, but also at play is speaker depth and basket size. Almost any 8" speaker should fit, and given location the speaker depth should not be a concern. In some cases the size of the basket (the speakers metal sound structure behind and supporting the cone and magnet) may be larger than space allows. I suppose a person can always just get the overpriced absolute POS OEM sub. But given the alternative 8" 8 ohm speakers available I would do almost anything to avoid that. Just pay attention to sensitivity rating on the speaker and get something 85db or above. The amp in the LS430 is pretty anemic. The OEM sub is rated at nominal 12 or 16 ohms (I have forgotten exactly) as long as you don't use a 4 or 2 ohm speaker you are almost certain to be just fine with a non OEM replacement.