New issues
10-25-12, 06:06 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
New issues
Ok. I have some new issues with the 04' 430. First one is the motor in the steering wheel doesn't go in and out, only up and down. Stealership said motor needs to be replaced...for $980. They also told me that my power steering fluid is "bad" and needs to be changed and it will cost $179. Is there a DIY for the power steering fluid exchange? I've done every service up to date; isn't that part of one of the services? Thanks gents
Ray
Ray
10-25-12, 12:40 PM
#2
Instructor
Regarding the tilt/telescope motors, there are other threads in the LS430 forum that discuss those problems in detail.
Regarding the power steering fluid, there is no service interval specified in the manual or maintenance guide.
Directly from Lexus: "The power steering fluid does not need to be replaced under regular use. The fluid should only need to be replaced if the power steering pump has failed and there is metal in the lines and power steering rack."
Even the power steering rack manufacturers like Dana, see no need to change this fluid unless there is a significant problem or a massive leak.
Power steering fluid replacement is just a cash grab, because it seems plausible to uninformed car owners that it needs regular changing, like the other automotive fluids.
If you really want to change it, be aware that the main/only benefit is aesthetic.
You can use the spray trigger top of a spray bottle, add an extension tube to the bottom of the sprayer's pickup tube, set your sprayer to STREAM (not SPRAY), insert the tube into the fill reservoir, and pump the old fluid out.
Or you can use a turkey baster instead of the spray bottle top. Replace to the specified level on the reservoir, and repeat every few days/weeks of driving until the color of the fluid meets your aesthetic standard.
Per the LS430 manual, the PS fluid is actually ATF fluid that meets DEXRON II or III spec. Since DEXRON II and III licensing systems have expired, find a brand you trust to meet these specs.
Power steering fluid is more of a hydraulic fluid than a lubricant. There is relatively little friction and exposure to air compared to brake/oil/ATF fluids, so I don't think it is necessary to pay a premium for synthetics or enhanced anti-foaming/anti-oxidation additives. I think the most basic Toyota DEXRON II or III-compatible ATF fluid would be just fine.
Regarding the power steering fluid, there is no service interval specified in the manual or maintenance guide.
Directly from Lexus: "The power steering fluid does not need to be replaced under regular use. The fluid should only need to be replaced if the power steering pump has failed and there is metal in the lines and power steering rack."
Even the power steering rack manufacturers like Dana, see no need to change this fluid unless there is a significant problem or a massive leak.
Power steering fluid replacement is just a cash grab, because it seems plausible to uninformed car owners that it needs regular changing, like the other automotive fluids.
If you really want to change it, be aware that the main/only benefit is aesthetic.
You can use the spray trigger top of a spray bottle, add an extension tube to the bottom of the sprayer's pickup tube, set your sprayer to STREAM (not SPRAY), insert the tube into the fill reservoir, and pump the old fluid out.
Or you can use a turkey baster instead of the spray bottle top. Replace to the specified level on the reservoir, and repeat every few days/weeks of driving until the color of the fluid meets your aesthetic standard.
Per the LS430 manual, the PS fluid is actually ATF fluid that meets DEXRON II or III spec. Since DEXRON II and III licensing systems have expired, find a brand you trust to meet these specs.
Power steering fluid is more of a hydraulic fluid than a lubricant. There is relatively little friction and exposure to air compared to brake/oil/ATF fluids, so I don't think it is necessary to pay a premium for synthetics or enhanced anti-foaming/anti-oxidation additives. I think the most basic Toyota DEXRON II or III-compatible ATF fluid would be just fine.
11-05-12, 04:51 AM
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
I was wondering how they could tell that the old fluid was "contaminated" just by looking at! Then to throw out a price of $179 was ridiculous. Especially when all they were going to do is hook it up to a machine and pump out the old fluid. I went ahead and had it done somewhere else for a 1/3 of the dealer price.
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