stnsidwayz

I recently acquired an '04 LS430 slammed on tein cs coils, no roll in the rear, mangled front fenders.
im looking at a set of 19x8.5"jj Locksmice Gerade wheels with a +46 in the front and a +28 in the rear. on some 225/40/19's. pretty narrow... i dont want to do more than a roll all around once i fix or replace the fenders. are 8.5's too small for rear or is this going to look ok? what do you guys think? dont know much about ls offsets yet, so your advice helps, thanks

ancdmd

You certainly won't have to touch your fenders with this setup, the tires will be quite tucked. I think it'll look very narrow both front and rear, especially the rear.

SQuester

I agree.

If you wanted to, you could rebarrel them to be wider or use the current faces and get step-lip 20" barrels with whatever widths/offsets you'd like.

stnsidwayz

i was thinking the same thing. thanks for your advice guys. guess i wont be happy settling for less.. nice wheels though

stnsidwayz

whats a good width to run in the rear with just a fender roll? for 19's and 20's? I was thinking a 19x10 and 19x9 +35ish. could i run the same for 20s? anyone have experience/

SQuester

That's pretty safe.

Just be aware of the front calipers, most rims won't clear unless they have a high disk face or you run a spacer.

sennett0r

Im pretty much looking for a similar wheel setup. Nice and flush but not too crazy to require a pull or shaving on the fenders.. I think a 20x9 20x10 setup with offsets around +30/35 should work decent.

levie

iTrader: (1)

wheels arent very big, you should be okay to stay away from body work. But honestly, if you want a super good fitment, youre going to have to get some aggressive wheels and mod your fenders too them.

in my opinion anyways. but the wheels look nice regardless

stnsidwayz

Good input all around. After putting some thought into it, i think theyre going to be too narrow, and will look sunken without spacers.. im aiming for something like this:


these are definitely 20's though. hella clean

Dranom

iTrader: (7)

Looks nice! Same design as lh waffe

ultm8mind

iTrader: (3)

...or the d3s, they're a nice rim man. You'll most likely need spacers to get them flush. As stated above the ideal set up is a 20x9fr/10rr with an offset somewhere in the 20's if you don't want any fender work or to buy the camber/toe arms. I found that out somewhat the hard way, lol...

ancdmd

The black Wald car is the same as mine. I had 20x8.5 +38 with 245/35 in front and 20x10 +40 with 275/30 in the back with zero rubbing, even when lowered. I also changed out the rear camber arms for a more "upright" (less camber) setup in the back and still got no rubbing. However, when I went with a 285/30 rear tire I now have a lot of rubbing and have had to roll the rear fender lips. This was a bad idea because with the design of these fenders you can't roll them without getting horrible dimpling of the outside of the lip, requiring the fenders to be repainted. The lip needs to be cut off instead of rolled. A few have managed to roll and not screw up the fenders but honestly its not something I would ever do again. I could have reinstalled the standard rear camber arms to tuck in the tire and likely clear the fender but I didn't want to have the rears "tilted" like they are on a stock lowered car. The 275 rear tire is ok, it just has bit of a "stretched" look (which I don't prefer) on the back wheel when compared to the 245 front tire, and the sidewall height appears shorter than the front.

ancdmd

With those 19's you will be FAR from this look...

sennett0r

Yeah, its almost impossible to guestimate offsets but that picture i would guess offsets around mid-teens to mid 20s...

As far as fender modifications, ancdmd: are you saying for the rear fenders its difficult to even roll the fenders?

also, what are the "tabs" that everyone seems to talk about shaving?

ancdmd

Yes the fender lips are double-wall thickness, and have holes drilled in them to mount the plastic lip protector. When you use the proper rolling tool, the lip is so stiff that the outside of the fender deforms outwards instead of only the lip rolling. And when the rolling tool goes over the part of the lip where the drilled holes are it deforms the fender differently, so the end result is an unevenly bulging fender. Some have said that an extremely experienced and patient person can achieve good results, but since anything less requires a fender respray it just isn't worth it to me.

I'm not sure what the "tabs" are.