Front bumper and cruise laser removal
07-26-13, 12:25 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Front bumper and cruise laser removal
Did some work yesterday that I don’t see any documentation of on the site so I thought I would share.
After the insane rains in the Toronto area a couple weeks ago (and flooding like the third world), I noticed that my cruise laser wasn’t detecting cars properly. It would only just pick them up when I was around the distance that the shortest setting would hold (at which point it would slam on the brakes). I took a look at the laser module and noticed that there was what looked like condensation on the inside of the two glass windows. The system still worked so I knew it wasn’t completely destroyed. I also hadn’t driven through any flood waters but I had driven in extremely heavy rains. Looking closer, I could see that there was a hairline crack in the glass: there wasn’t an actual opening or a hole, just a crack.
My plan then was to remove and open the laser module, dry it out, and hopefully Bob’s your uncle…
After searching the site and finding very little documentation on removing the bumper and the laser sensor, I got started.
HERE you will find service manual instructions on removing the front bumper.
It’s a bit of an “it’s easy once you know how” situation. SUCKS the first time.
TOOLS: All bolts, nuts and screws are 10mm or Phillips. You'll need an extension or two (about a foot of reach). You also need a flat head for removing some of the clips.
I’d start with the easy stuff. Remove all the engine undercover bolts along the edge of the bumper, the three clips in directly ahead of the radiator, the small black covers next to the headlights (held by three screw-centered clips) and removing the two bolts on the gray plastic that hold the headlights (Note: these are the only two bolts to release the headlight. More on this later).
Next we move to the wheel wells. Here we need to remove one screw that holds the wheelhouse cover in place and just above that, one plastic clip. This opens enough space to complete the rest of the task. Once peeled back, you will be removing one screw that is in vertically attaching the back edge of the bumper skin to the fender.
Now for the harder stuff. On each side, directly under the headlights, two nuts hold the bumper skin to the fender as illustrated below.
To reach these you’ll need a long extension (or two) and you’ll pass through where you opened the space in the wheelhouse cover. You will need a light and it will be frustrating.
DO NOT pull on the bumper when those are released.
The headlight washers are attached to the car on the top (directly under the headlight) and to the bumper skin on the bottom.
We need to release them from the car before we pull the bumper skin, and to do this we need to remove the headlight.
With the two bolts already removed the headlight is now only held by a pin clip that points to the outside of the car. To release mine I tapped inward the outside of the headlight with the “heel” of my hand (firmly but gently) pushing the headlight assembly toward the middle of the car to release it.
Once the headlights are out, there are two bolts that tighten vertically holding the washer assembly in place. Once these bolts are out, the washer attaches to the body with a metal hook that needs to be pushed toward the middle of the car to release them from the body. I managed to break one of my washers because I tried pulling the bumper before the washer was released so be careful.
The connector for the park sensors run between the bumper cover and the foam core just next to the left side headlight. Unplug this.
CRITICAL: During reassembly, make sure the connector for the parking sensors is pulled through at the TOP of the foam absorber so it can be plugged back in next to the left headlight.
I had to take the skin back off after reassembly because I forgot this. Lost half hour of my life taking everything back off.
The bumper skin is now loose on the top and can now fall forward. It is still attached to the foglights so unplug these if you are removing it completely.
The laser module is held in place by three 17mm bolts that run through the left side of the aluminum reinforcement bar. Once these are out, the aluminum bar needs to by pulled forward a bit to release the sensor for removal..
The laser core comes out of the bracket as a unit.
Four screws keep it closed and these face the back of unit.
Once these are removed the core slides out of the bracket in the same direction that the screws came out.
You may need to pull pretty hard or pry the edge a smidge as it is sealed with a rubber gasket.
You can see the crack I have on the transmitter window.
The smaller rectangular glass window is for the laser transmitter and the larger rounder one is the receiver.
In my case the smaller glass on the laser transmitter side was cracked (hairline) but not broken with a hole in it.
Note the rubber gasket.
Once inside I could see that only a bit of moisture got to the inside of the unit and luckily the temperature difference between the outside world and the inside of the unit kept that moisture on the glass as condensation. There was no visible moisture damage on the electronics.
I took a hair drier to everything to dry it thoroughly.
The glass windows are in a rubber housing.
Note the amount of minor impact damage these go through. Can barely see through it. I was amazed the laser still works effectively through such an opaque window.
To prevent water from going in through the crack I essentially wrapped the glass in clear tape. I did the unbroken one as well. Just in case.
I may also add a plexiglass cover on the outside some day when I'm bored.
A few more angles on the sensor.
Everything works great now and even better than before because I reaimed the sensor toward the left a bit as the car would often pick up trucks and school buses in the right lane as I passed them on the highway and would hit the brakes hard.
Final and most important step:
After the insane rains in the Toronto area a couple weeks ago (and flooding like the third world), I noticed that my cruise laser wasn’t detecting cars properly. It would only just pick them up when I was around the distance that the shortest setting would hold (at which point it would slam on the brakes). I took a look at the laser module and noticed that there was what looked like condensation on the inside of the two glass windows. The system still worked so I knew it wasn’t completely destroyed. I also hadn’t driven through any flood waters but I had driven in extremely heavy rains. Looking closer, I could see that there was a hairline crack in the glass: there wasn’t an actual opening or a hole, just a crack.
My plan then was to remove and open the laser module, dry it out, and hopefully Bob’s your uncle…
After searching the site and finding very little documentation on removing the bumper and the laser sensor, I got started.
HERE you will find service manual instructions on removing the front bumper.
It’s a bit of an “it’s easy once you know how” situation. SUCKS the first time.
TOOLS: All bolts, nuts and screws are 10mm or Phillips. You'll need an extension or two (about a foot of reach). You also need a flat head for removing some of the clips.
I’d start with the easy stuff. Remove all the engine undercover bolts along the edge of the bumper, the three clips in directly ahead of the radiator, the small black covers next to the headlights (held by three screw-centered clips) and removing the two bolts on the gray plastic that hold the headlights (Note: these are the only two bolts to release the headlight. More on this later).
Next we move to the wheel wells. Here we need to remove one screw that holds the wheelhouse cover in place and just above that, one plastic clip. This opens enough space to complete the rest of the task. Once peeled back, you will be removing one screw that is in vertically attaching the back edge of the bumper skin to the fender.
Now for the harder stuff. On each side, directly under the headlights, two nuts hold the bumper skin to the fender as illustrated below.
To reach these you’ll need a long extension (or two) and you’ll pass through where you opened the space in the wheelhouse cover. You will need a light and it will be frustrating.
DO NOT pull on the bumper when those are released.
The headlight washers are attached to the car on the top (directly under the headlight) and to the bumper skin on the bottom.
We need to release them from the car before we pull the bumper skin, and to do this we need to remove the headlight.
With the two bolts already removed the headlight is now only held by a pin clip that points to the outside of the car. To release mine I tapped inward the outside of the headlight with the “heel” of my hand (firmly but gently) pushing the headlight assembly toward the middle of the car to release it.
Once the headlights are out, there are two bolts that tighten vertically holding the washer assembly in place. Once these bolts are out, the washer attaches to the body with a metal hook that needs to be pushed toward the middle of the car to release them from the body. I managed to break one of my washers because I tried pulling the bumper before the washer was released so be careful.
The connector for the park sensors run between the bumper cover and the foam core just next to the left side headlight. Unplug this.
CRITICAL: During reassembly, make sure the connector for the parking sensors is pulled through at the TOP of the foam absorber so it can be plugged back in next to the left headlight.
I had to take the skin back off after reassembly because I forgot this. Lost half hour of my life taking everything back off.
The bumper skin is now loose on the top and can now fall forward. It is still attached to the foglights so unplug these if you are removing it completely.
The laser module is held in place by three 17mm bolts that run through the left side of the aluminum reinforcement bar. Once these are out, the aluminum bar needs to by pulled forward a bit to release the sensor for removal..
The laser core comes out of the bracket as a unit.
Four screws keep it closed and these face the back of unit.
Once these are removed the core slides out of the bracket in the same direction that the screws came out.
You may need to pull pretty hard or pry the edge a smidge as it is sealed with a rubber gasket.
You can see the crack I have on the transmitter window.
The smaller rectangular glass window is for the laser transmitter and the larger rounder one is the receiver.
In my case the smaller glass on the laser transmitter side was cracked (hairline) but not broken with a hole in it.
Note the rubber gasket.
Once inside I could see that only a bit of moisture got to the inside of the unit and luckily the temperature difference between the outside world and the inside of the unit kept that moisture on the glass as condensation. There was no visible moisture damage on the electronics.
I took a hair drier to everything to dry it thoroughly.
The glass windows are in a rubber housing.
Note the amount of minor impact damage these go through. Can barely see through it. I was amazed the laser still works effectively through such an opaque window.
To prevent water from going in through the crack I essentially wrapped the glass in clear tape. I did the unbroken one as well. Just in case.
I may also add a plexiglass cover on the outside some day when I'm bored.
A few more angles on the sensor.
Everything works great now and even better than before because I reaimed the sensor toward the left a bit as the car would often pick up trucks and school buses in the right lane as I passed them on the highway and would hit the brakes hard.
Final and most important step:
Last edited by dfkd; 07-26-13 at 01:45 PM.
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IchBin (04-27-19)
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beneteau
LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006)
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