Blown ML Subwoffer, Replace or upgrade...what did you do and how? HELP!
#1
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Blown ML Subwoffer, Replace or upgrade...what did you do and how? HELP!
So heres the deal...
Recently the sub of the ML system in my LS430 has "blown" (not really, just have the rattle from the surround prob being ripped)...i was just going to replace it with a aftermarket sub in the deck. Started doing some research and for the that stock ML sub had a abnormal OHM ratting and no one sells subs to match. Also I read multiple times that if you replace with a 4 or 8 ohm you run the risk of overheating and blowing the ML amp which is $2000 to replace (NO THANK YOU) the problem now comes as it makes no sense to pay $300 from the dealer to replace.
What has everyone done for replacement or sub upgrade on a stock deck? if you went aftermarket did you replace the ML sub or add a box to the trunk and if so how did you connect it
i need to get my bass back asap...cant live without it....its not the same
i saw a post when i first got the car of how to access the sub with pictures and repair in one post but now i cant find it for the life of me....PISSED
Recently the sub of the ML system in my LS430 has "blown" (not really, just have the rattle from the surround prob being ripped)...i was just going to replace it with a aftermarket sub in the deck. Started doing some research and for the that stock ML sub had a abnormal OHM ratting and no one sells subs to match. Also I read multiple times that if you replace with a 4 or 8 ohm you run the risk of overheating and blowing the ML amp which is $2000 to replace (NO THANK YOU) the problem now comes as it makes no sense to pay $300 from the dealer to replace.
What has everyone done for replacement or sub upgrade on a stock deck? if you went aftermarket did you replace the ML sub or add a box to the trunk and if so how did you connect it
i need to get my bass back asap...cant live without it....its not the same
i saw a post when i first got the car of how to access the sub with pictures and repair in one post but now i cant find it for the life of me....PISSED
#4
Moderator
ML speaker prices from the dealer border insanity considering the crappy quality of the ML sub.
Try this instead - 8 inch 16 ohm - same quality, no...actually better quality as ML but costs less than $25
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-1455
Try this instead - 8 inch 16 ohm - same quality, no...actually better quality as ML but costs less than $25
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-1455
#5
If I had seen Jabberwock's post above I probably would have gone that route.
I got a foam repair kit and replaced the foam. It's easy but takes time. For the same amount as I paid for the kit you can just replace the whole thing and do it a lot quicker. I can not comment on the sound quality as the darn thing was blown when I got the car.
I got a foam repair kit and replaced the foam. It's easy but takes time. For the same amount as I paid for the kit you can just replace the whole thing and do it a lot quicker. I can not comment on the sound quality as the darn thing was blown when I got the car.
#7
Lower ohms will overload the amp by drawing more current than it can support.
By the way, I just glued the ML subwoofer and I have 8 ohm one on standby. Right now I am pretty happy with the sound but I don;t know if replacing the sub will sound better or worse. I am guessing better but I am staying put until I have no option but to replace sub.
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#8
Refoaming works the majority of the time with the biggest savings. Mine has worked for over 2 1/2 years with plenty of blasting.
#9
Moderator
Lower ohms means lower resistance that does put more "load" on the amp not in the way most people think. Think about it this way - you can short circuit the amp on the speaker terminals by connecting one wire between + and - terminals - that would be 0 ohms and it would overheat and short the amp. So higher ohms is more resistance (and less like a straight copper wire short circuit). So more resistance (greater ohms) allows the amp to work against some resistance. On the other side of the coin, everything else being equal, higher the ohm speaker will not be as loud as a lower ohm speaker on same amp.
You could also buy a 4 ohm sub and add a 12 ohm resister in series and that would work but the speaker would have much lower volume. A speaker designed with 16 ohm load would not typically have reduced volume as a 4 ohm speaker that was wired with a 12 ohm resister so its better to get the right or close to ohm matched speaker. That being said 8 ohm is not that far off a 16 ohm. What you want to avoid is 4 or 2 ohm speakers in an amp circuit designed for 12-16 ohms - because when the resistance in the circuit is that low on an amp that isnt designed for super low ohm speakers it will usually trip the amp's circuit protection or in some cases damage the amp.
You could also buy a 4 ohm sub and add a 12 ohm resister in series and that would work but the speaker would have much lower volume. A speaker designed with 16 ohm load would not typically have reduced volume as a 4 ohm speaker that was wired with a 12 ohm resister so its better to get the right or close to ohm matched speaker. That being said 8 ohm is not that far off a 16 ohm. What you want to avoid is 4 or 2 ohm speakers in an amp circuit designed for 12-16 ohms - because when the resistance in the circuit is that low on an amp that isnt designed for super low ohm speakers it will usually trip the amp's circuit protection or in some cases damage the amp.
Last edited by Jabberwock; 09-12-13 at 09:12 PM.
#10
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ML speaker prices from the dealer border insanity considering the crappy quality of the ML sub.
Try this instead - 8 inch 16 ohm - same quality, no...actually better quality as ML but costs less than $25
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-1455
Try this instead - 8 inch 16 ohm - same quality, no...actually better quality as ML but costs less than $25
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-1455
#11
Intermediate
So heres the deal...
Recently the sub of the ML system in my LS430 has "blown" (not really, just have the rattle from the surround prob being ripped)...i was just going to replace it with a aftermarket sub in the deck. Started doing some research and for the that stock ML sub had a abnormal OHM ratting and no one sells subs to match. Also I read multiple times that if you replace with a 4 or 8 ohm you run the risk of overheating and blowing the ML amp which is $2000 to replace (NO THANK YOU) the problem now comes as it makes no sense to pay $300 from the dealer to replace.
What has everyone done for replacement or sub upgrade on a stock deck? if you went aftermarket did you replace the ML sub or add a box to the trunk and if so how did you connect it
i need to get my bass back asap...cant live without it....its not the same
i saw a post when i first got the car of how to access the sub with pictures and repair in one post but now i cant find it for the life of me....PISSED
Recently the sub of the ML system in my LS430 has "blown" (not really, just have the rattle from the surround prob being ripped)...i was just going to replace it with a aftermarket sub in the deck. Started doing some research and for the that stock ML sub had a abnormal OHM ratting and no one sells subs to match. Also I read multiple times that if you replace with a 4 or 8 ohm you run the risk of overheating and blowing the ML amp which is $2000 to replace (NO THANK YOU) the problem now comes as it makes no sense to pay $300 from the dealer to replace.
What has everyone done for replacement or sub upgrade on a stock deck? if you went aftermarket did you replace the ML sub or add a box to the trunk and if so how did you connect it
i need to get my bass back asap...cant live without it....its not the same
i saw a post when i first got the car of how to access the sub with pictures and repair in one post but now i cant find it for the life of me....PISSED
Here's my thread when I did mine:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...laced-yay.html
#12
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iTrader: (1)
Looking at your thread Lexus es300, I just realized my car did not did not come with that rear center mat. Interesting. I wonder if it's missing or maybe it never had one. I also had the buzzing sub issue. Mine is glued with flexible silicone right now and working good but I did find a new OEM on eBay for $200 that I will install at some point. My OEM cone is brown and the new one is black. Hopefully they updated it for longevity. I'm sure the ceramic tint will go a long way helping with this as well. It's the exposure to the sun that destroys the cones on these things.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 09-15-13 at 05:55 AM.
#13
Intermediate
Looking at your thread Lexus es300, I just realized my car did not did not come with that rear center mat. Interesting. I wonder if it's missing or maybe it never had one. I also had the buzzing sub issue. Mine is glued with flexible silicone right now and working good but I did find a new OEM on eBay for $200 that I will install at some point. My OEM cone is brown and the new one is black. Hopefully they updated it for longevity. I'm sure the ceramic tint will go a long way helping with this as well. It's the exposure to the sun that destroys the cones on these things.
Last edited by LEX ES300; 09-15-13 at 06:16 AM.
#14
ML speaker prices from the dealer border insanity considering the crappy quality of the ML sub.
Try this instead - 8 inch 16 ohm - same quality, no...actually better quality as ML but costs less than $25
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-1455
Try this instead - 8 inch 16 ohm - same quality, no...actually better quality as ML but costs less than $25
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-1455