2005 LS 430 Easy-Close Drivers Door Lock Actuator
#16
Just follow directions here. If you are not mechanical skills have someone do it for you. Take your time.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-tutorial.html
The correct motor is above. With auto-close there is s cover you need to take off to gain access to where the motor is. No need to zip tie or glue with auto close as well.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-tutorial.html
The correct motor is above. With auto-close there is s cover you need to take off to gain access to where the motor is. No need to zip tie or glue with auto close as well.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-08-15 at 05:40 PM.
#17
Thanks for this info!!!! I just copied your description and pasted it in the search on eBay. It popped right up!!! For that price I bought 4!!! May as well have extra on hand, and I have noticed the rear passenger door starting to act like the front passenger door before it quit working!!!
Also, as scrolling by grouch the thread I noticed someone mention the same motor is used on the fold in mirrors, and mine has started acting up...so maybe if it goes we can use one there as well!!
Also, as scrolling by grouch the thread I noticed someone mention the same motor is used on the fold in mirrors, and mine has started acting up...so maybe if it goes we can use one there as well!!
#18
So frustrating the dealer wants over $1000 to fix what is flawed design. My non luxury Maxima I had for 14 years- the auto door locks never showed any sign of wear- not one bit. Niether did the adjustment of the mirrors (which is a problem on my 430UL) I figured things like the vibrating seats or cooling seat fans would go- I NEVER guessed that door locks and rearview mirror adjustment would- and if they did would cost $1000's to fix. Very frustrating. Wonder if I can find a mechanic to do this motor swap. I'd gladly pay a few $100 in labor for someone to do this better than I- still much cheaper than the $1000+ Lexus wants.
#19
Long story short, my drivers door was acting up when I purchased the car. It cured itself for a year and then totally went out two days ago. I had two motors waiting for this day. She snaps open and closed very healthy now. Saved about $1000 over the dealer replacing the whole unit and their labor.
UL and CL owners with Easy Close.
It is a little different with Easy Close. Here are a few notes.
UL and CL owners with Easy Close.
It is a little different with Easy Close. Here are a few notes.
- As mentioned, disconnect your negative so you don't engage the auto lower mode. Windows should be up.
- Disconnect the wiring harness to the unit at the door ECU. It does not disconnect at the regulator.
- The metal rod that runs up to the door from the actuator / power close unit up to the key lock. It has a clip that holds it in. When you are looking in the door it looks difficult to do but it is not. Just use one finger to push it towards the inside of the door. It will pop off the rod and allow you to pull the top of rod out towards the door hinges. Don't worry the clip does not come off. You don't need to touch the key and door handle mechanism at all after that. Lock the door if you can't see it well.
- Once you work the unit down and out of the door take it to your work table. You need to take off additional covers that prevent access to the hex bolts. This is not shown in the pictures from the tutorial. Flip it over and there will be one small screw and another larger one. Take the covers off to get access to the other screws and bolts so you can pry the cover up. Use a razor blade and you will be able to pry it open fairly easy. The area you need to get to is opposite of where the wiring harness is glued in. You can bend the cover back and swap the motor without having to take the whole thing off. It's an easy in and out. Remove old motor and gear shaft and put gear on new D-shaft motor. Push the new motor down until it clicks into place and feels snug and reassemble everything.
- The window track runs down a runner built into the case. It's not actually connected to the regulator / easy close but it needs to be placed back into it's track when reinstalling. So, when putting it back you need to bend the window track up to align it into the track. It's a pain a little but you will see it. Guide the metal rod too it likes to get hung up.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-10-15 at 01:02 PM.
#20
My door just all of a sudden wouldn't close. It just bounces when trying to shut it. It literally worked 5 mins before when I closed it but when I got back to the car I couldn't even get it to latch. This is the right rear door. Did all of you have it just fail like that or was it gradual? I wonder cause I'm trying to determine if it's the actuator. The door lock works as I can hear it but it won't latch at all.
#21
That sounds like a different issue altogether. I don't want to speak for everyone, but I think the issue here is the door LATCH and lock mechanically WORK, but the motor that actuates the "power" to flip the lock back and forth died- so it's manual only. Your issue sounds more mechanical not electrical- the LATCH is perhaps bent in a way that it does not return to a neutral position to accept the door post and latch around it to close the door. Not sure if that's a spring or metal now bent if the door was forced. Some pictures of the door frame and the latching mechanism may help others identify the problem.
#22
My door just all of a sudden wouldn't close. It just bounces when trying to shut it. It literally worked 5 mins before when I closed it but when I got back to the car I couldn't even get it to latch. This is the right rear door. Did all of you have it just fail like that or was it gradual? I wonder cause I'm trying to determine if it's the actuator. The door lock works as I can hear it but it won't latch at all.
#23
With these easy close doors is there particular way I should be closing them ? for example shutting them lightly to preserve the motors since all mine work or should I be using the auto close all them time ?
Last edited by VanCityLS4; 02-19-15 at 09:58 PM.
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