DIY Spark Plug Change With Pics
#46
Lexus Fanatic
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On small stuff you can get away with guessing the torque but with any kind of suspension work and many of the engine bolts it's very smart to get it right the first time. something many mechanics are lazy to do including those at Lexus. Like the lower ball joints. Super easy to replace yourself but you would be screwed without a wrench that will do at least 120 lbs.
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...227150042.html
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...227150042.html
#47
Pole Position
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Well today most apply their own anti-seize compound to the threads at the factory. I use a very small amount meant for aluminum heads, it's habitual and I've never had issues when I inspect the plugs every 30-40k miles. I torque with a digital wrench to 13lbs, after back out of the compression ring seating.
per NGK: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf
I don't have a particularly accurate torque wrench, so I just use NGKs and turn 'em a bit after the seat.
Would you recommend your digital torque wrench?
Also, it seems our cars are really easy on spark plugs. The only reason I changed my early (75k or so?) was because they were getting old (13 years) and I didn't want to fight them to get them out. If I ran on the freeway all day, I'd run my plugs to 120k miles or so. The only issue being removal.
#48
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I got just a regular one at Sears. I did not want to wait and order one. It's a good wrench and easy to use.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro...2&blockType=G2
But Amazon is usually my go to.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...we%2Caps%2C213
It's smart to do the plugs when you are doing the timing belt / water pump. You are right there doing all the work and after 90k miles the carbon is evident. The gap and dirty plugs don't burn as much fuel which contribute to more carbon in the engine and exhaust.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro...2&blockType=G2
But Amazon is usually my go to.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...we%2Caps%2C213
It's smart to do the plugs when you are doing the timing belt / water pump. You are right there doing all the work and after 90k miles the carbon is evident. The gap and dirty plugs don't burn as much fuel which contribute to more carbon in the engine and exhaust.
#49
#50
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I have not read through this entire thread. My 01 has 118,000 miles and runs, accelerates, and idles like a top. Can anyone attest to changing the plugs will actually improve my gas mileage significantly?
I do 90% city driving with 13+ and highway probably in the the low to mid 20s but never really checked as I don't care all that much. I was just curious. Thanks all.
I do 90% city driving with 13+ and highway probably in the the low to mid 20s but never really checked as I don't care all that much. I was just curious. Thanks all.
#51
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I have not read through this entire thread. My 01 has 118,000 miles and runs, accelerates, and idles like a top. Can anyone attest to changing the plugs will actually improve my gas mileage significantly?
I do 90% city driving with 13+ and highway probably in the the low to mid 20s but never really checked as I don't care all that much. I was just curious. Thanks all.
I do 90% city driving with 13+ and highway probably in the the low to mid 20s but never really checked as I don't care all that much. I was just curious. Thanks all.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 04-09-15 at 06:06 PM.
#52
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I have a 2006 LS 430 with 83K miles and am still on the original plugs. At 70 mph, I get around 28 mpg per the dash read out(I have seen 30 mpg at a steady 65) . I do have my tires set at 35PSI and use 93 octane fuel.... I also do mostly highway runs with this car.
#53
Lexus Test Driver
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Lexus dealer inspected my car recently and told me I needed new plugs. The plugs have approximately 60-70k miles on them. I have developed a noticeable engine pinging in the last month or two, and the upstream O2 sensors, engine coolant temp sensor, MAF, TPS, knock sensors, and cats are all new. I always use top tier gas. Maybe the plugs are indeed fouled, but seems a little premature, no? Could they be causing a noticeable pinging? I'm picking up the car today from an independent shop that recommended replacing the ECU. UGH.
#54
Instructor
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Lexus dealer inspected my car recently and told me I needed new plugs. The plugs have approximately 60-70k miles on them. I have developed a noticeable engine pinging in the last month or two, and the upstream O2 sensors, engine coolant temp sensor, MAF, TPS, knock sensors, and cats are all new. I always use top tier gas. Maybe the plugs are indeed fouled, but seems a little premature, no? Could they be causing a noticeable pinging? I'm picking up the car today from an independent shop that recommended replacing the ECU. UGH.
#56
Racer
Thread Starter
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Lexus dealer inspected my car recently and told me I needed new plugs. The plugs have approximately 60-70k miles on them. I have developed a noticeable engine pinging in the last month or two, and the upstream O2 sensors, engine coolant temp sensor, MAF, TPS, knock sensors, and cats are all new. I always use top tier gas. Maybe the plugs are indeed fouled, but seems a little premature, no? Could they be causing a noticeable pinging? I'm picking up the car today from an independent shop that recommended replacing the ECU. UGH.
It could be a lot of things, but properly installed, factory plugs shouldn't be causing pinging at that mileage. And if it's truly pinging, modern on board diagnostics should be easily able to pick that up. You should be getting a check engine on at the very least, that's what the knock sensors are for. A good auto scanner (not a code reader) can go deeper and get readings to tell a tech why something isn't working properly.
Considering all the parts you've already replaced, I would personally take into a Lexus dealership and let them put it on their $10,000 scanners and give you a diagnosis. A real shop with the right tools should be able to tell you exactly what's going on.
#57
Racer
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If you want to put some SeaFoam in the gas tank, that would be a much safer.
If you pour water down too quickly, you can hydrolock the engine, just not worth the risk.
#58
Instructor
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The design of the intake manifold makes that almost impossible. You would need over a gallon of liquid in the lower intake before there was any threat of it being sucked into a cylinder. Even then getting enough volume to hydrolock would be difficult.
#59
Lexus Test Driver
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I understand the hydrolock risk with a large volume of water. I'd only introduce a spray with a spray bottle, either directly into the air intake or through a vacuum hose. Might even install a nipple on the black plastic intake hose. I'm just not convinced the Seafoam does anything.