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Just got P0325 while driving on the highway. Loss of power and limp mode, negative timing from a stop.
I have a basic oscilloscope from undergrad, so I'm gonna try testing the knock sensor waveform to the ECU this weekend if I have time.
Even then, it'll most likely mean taking off the intake manifold to really know for sure. With all the labor involved to get to that point, I might as well replace both sensors with NTK, redo the harness, and replace the starter with a Denso unit...
Very thankful that my company and Masters program can be done remotely.
Quick (probably kinda stupid) question, but do you guys get the battery warning light on the dash before every startup?
Car decided to just die on me today while I was waiting to get a bay at the carwash. Had the key on the first click (acc only) and had the radio on. Radio cut out and the starter wouldn't crank. Just made this ticking sound (which I assume is due to insufficient amps?) when I tried to start it. Had to get a jump. Earlier in the day while I was going about, it seemed to start a lot slower than usual. Oddly enough, after the car was jumped, it had one more slow start then everything went back to normal. (assuming that battery light on the dash is normal)
Any ideas? Hoping that this doesn't require a new starter motor...
Also visited the local Lexus garage that seems to be recommended on the forums. Turns out the finishing place I use moved into the same building as them. Got quoted for a trans flush with dropping the trans cover to replace the filter and it came out to a lot cheaper than expected. Might get that done in the near future.
Man in serious need of a wash and wax--will do it today or tomorrow. Now I see artillery fungus spores in addition to the algae--those are hard to get off. Even if she just sits, I'll feel better knowing she was waxed. Man they measured my tires to 5/32, and I measured about 4 with a regular depth gauge (there's no line at 4), so it probably won't even be new tires next year if the world did return to normal....
Quick (probably kinda stupid) question, but do you guys get the battery warning light on the dash before every startup?
Car decided to just die on me today while I was waiting to get a bay at the carwash. Had the key on the first click (acc only) and had the radio on. Radio cut out and the starter wouldn't crank. Just made this ticking sound (which I assume is due to insufficient amps?) when I tried to start it. Had to get a jump. Earlier in the day while I was going about, it seemed to start a lot slower than usual. Oddly enough, after the car was jumped, it had one more slow start then everything went back to normal. (assuming that battery light on the dash is normal)
Any ideas? Hoping that this doesn't require a new starter motor...
Also visited the local Lexus garage that seems to be recommended on the forums. Turns out the finishing place I use moved into the same building as them. Got quoted for a trans flush with dropping the trans cover to replace the filter and it came out to a lot cheaper than expected. Might get that done in the near future.
Yes, at the beginning of start up, both the CEL + battery lights come on and disappear after a moment. I assume if the jump fixed it, it must have been your battery. You should get it tested!
Originally Posted by ls430w140
Lubricated all rubber in between doors, around mirrors, hood and couple of other spots. Noticed immediate difference - no longer hearing specific Low volume squeaking noise coming from door area when driving Over bumps or when entering parking lots at higher ground.
Arrived at 99,999 miles today so I did a quick vacuum and exterior wash. Also degreased and pressure washed the undercarriage because I drove down a muddy road last week.
Ordered new set of urethane ISF bushings (no fluid, 10-20% stiffer) for front lower control arms.
These bushings were designed to support the weight of heavy V8 5.0 L engine. Some people are saying they have a better design.
The ISF bushings are arriving tonight. Can’t wait to install these and observe if higher density rubber makes a difference.
Update: Parts installed, reset performed, torqued to specs. ISF bushings are definitely better for higher spring rate coilovers - immediately after leaving garage I noticed some sort of a side support to the suspension and “heavier” movements of lower control arms. Feels nice, I like it! These are stiffer to the suspension response, not to diminish the comfort. Highly recommend this mod if you have Teins or any other high quality coilovers.
For stock suspension, I recommend stock bushings or IS.
Waxed her last night, did not clay, seems smooth already so I questioned if a clay would have any value add. She's a good looking car still, to me she is.
This AM waxed my wife's SUV and managed to get one of the engine mounts out--but no part to reinstall. Dang thing was rocking.....I swear I don't like working on cars as much anymore, but at the same time, I enjoy fixing things.
Drove it to the gym and enjoyed the smooth quiet ride. Been driving a Honda Accord as a daily and it always makes me smile getting in the Lexus and enjoying the smooth ride.
I rented a Honda Accord Sport last year and within 2-miles I returned it to the Evansville, IA airport. It was brutal. Glad you got the LS430 out for a drive
The ISF bushings are arriving tonight. Can’t wait to install these and observe if higher density rubber makes a difference.
Update: Parts installed, reset performed, torqued to specs. ISF bushings are definitely better for higher spring rate coilovers - immediately after leaving garage I noticed some sort of a side support to the suspension and “heavier” movements of lower control arms. Feels nice, I like it! These are stiffer to the suspension response, not to diminish the comfort. Highly recommend this mod if you have Teins or any other high quality coilovers.
For stock suspension, I recommend stock bushings or IS.
You had IS bushings previous to ISF?
If so - I'm not surprised you love the difference.
I have IS bushings at the moment and hate them. They are too soft and wobbly for LS. Didn't have any issues on OEM bushings, so I ordered 2 new OEM bushings and will replace them again.
I also considered to order ISF, but don't want to wait and they would be more expensive than OEM .
Again for anyone considering IS LCA bushings - don't do it.
You had IS bushings previous to ISF?
If so - I'm not surprised you love the difference.
I have IS bushings at the moment and hate them. They are too soft and wobbly for LS. Didn't have any issues on OEM bushings, so I ordered 2 new OEM bushings and will replace them again.
I also considered to order ISF, but don't want to wait and they would be more expensive than OEM .
Again for anyone considering IS LCA bushings - don't do it.
Hmm thats good to know, because i havent had IS bushings on the stock suspension as of yet. I didn't have any concerns until I tried ISF. They cost me approximately 110 dollars delivered to my home. This price included two bushings with brackets.
During the installation, i noticed that the bracket and rubber have other color dots. My older IS bushings had black dot on the metal, while ISF bushings had pink color dot. Same for rubber.
Update: I highly recommend ISF bushings for stock suspension. I seriously believe it might be even a better rubber than stock fluid-filled bushing known for specific reaction during heavy breaking and overall softness.
10-16-20, 10:36 PM
