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Hmm thats good to know, because i havent had IS bushings on the stock suspension as of yet. I didn't have any concerns until I tried ISF. They cost me approximately 110 dollars delivered to my home. This price included two bushings with brackets.
During the installation, i noticed that the bracket and rubber have other color dots. My older IS bushings had black dot on the metal, while ISF bushings had pink color dot. Same for rubber.
Update: I highly recommend ISF bushings for stock suspension. I seriously believe it might be even a better rubber than stock fluid-filled bushing known for specific reaction during heavy breaking and overall softness.
They are as bad (IS) on stock suspension as on your coilovers.
It would be a good comparison if you changed the OEM to ISF bushings to tell how big is the difference.
I know that " specific reaction during heavy breaking." even on OEM bushings.
How do ISF bushings perform on bad roads? Don't they feel harsh like poly for example?
They are as bad (IS) on stock suspension as on your coilovers.
It would be a good comparison if you changed the OEM to ISF bushings to tell how big is the difference.
I know that " specific reaction during heavy breaking." even on OEM bushings.
How do ISF bushings perform on bad roads? Don't they feel harsh like poly for example?
In my experience, ISF bushings perform smoother AND quieter on bad roads than IS bushings roughly by about 20-30 percent. The thing is ISF suspension was designed to handle Higher Spring rate from the factory.
It does seem this bushing dampens left-and-right movements inside the bushings more than the IS which had significantly less resistance. But I can’t confirm IS were BAD as you say, because the ride was comfortable even on my tein struts. A lot of others things come to play to achieve certain level, I wouldn’t just blame lca rubber for that.
Also, I assume that ISF rubber may actually clear the problem with car wandering on highway - whoever has this issue (hopefully by now the forum info was enough to take care of the problem), it is worth to try this method.
I'm driving it to the eye doctor today. Learned about parasitic drain. I left the interior lights on for 3 days--oooops. Driver side, I would say that's 5W. Nothing happened.
On my wife's, I forgot to unplug the dash cam. It ran for 2 days. Nothing happened.
Not sure how much of a parasitic drain is needed to cause a no start condition.
Those look pretty sweet. Kinda want to get something cheap now to replace my 17in chrome 7 spoke that I use with my all seasons when winter rolls around. Going back to that look after having the Carlssons on for most of the year kinda sucks. Do you know what the offsets on those are?
Hmm thats good to know, because i havent had IS bushings on the stock suspension as of yet. I didn't have any concerns until I tried ISF. They cost me approximately 110 dollars delivered to my home. This price included two bushings with brackets.
During the installation, i noticed that the bracket and rubber have other color dots. My older IS bushings had black dot on the metal, while ISF bushings had pink color dot. Same for rubber.
Update: I highly recommend ISF bushings for stock suspension. I seriously believe it might be even a better rubber than stock fluid-filled bushing known for specific reaction during heavy breaking and overall softness.
What's the part # for the bushings you used?
I got installed new front struts Monroe OESpectrum because the front left was leaking. They were only 21K miles and 6 years old.
Ride has not changed much since the previous kit was also the EOSpectrum, feels very smooth
Working on baselining things so I know where I stand.
timing belt looked like it was 17 yo stock. Very cracked and hard
water pump had evidence of seeping
Timing idler felt rough.
All replaced with the Aisin kit
new plugs, valve cover gaskets, tstat, accessory belt, hoses and coolant too.
rotated and balanced the tires. Brakes look good, but have a creak. Suspension tests fine but is old. I have a seeping right front air shock. Replaced the locking lug nuts with regular.
replaced all the interior lights with led.
Replaced hood and trunk struts.
plenty left to do, but I love this car
I used the same ISF bushings but in the +20' caster in conjunction with poly steering rack bushings. More feedback to the steering wheel , but I suppose that's in part due to the steering rack bushings. Similar experience with less steering feedback upon hard braking or braking in a corner.
Over the weekend I T-Cut and polished out some greying of the clearcoat on my LS's hood. Looks excellent now.
Looked at the rust spots on the left side (passenger side here) front door, and decided I need to find a used donor door.
Ordered a battery maintainer as she just isn't doing the mileage what with Covid and not commuting any more.
Took her out and gave her some beans on a twist backroad near my house.
Boy does she move when you get on it. :-)
Handles superbly for a 2 ton behemoth too.
I just replaced my Lower Control Arm Bushings today with the ones from the IS 350 that have the aluminum housing with the bushing in it. Did both sides in about 1 1/2 hours. Easy peasy, but since the new aluminum housing is a little thicker, you need to get a front end alignment afterwards. It made my clunk go away on my left side. I prefer using OEM parts. You will like the replacement IS ones. My drivers side had a crack all the way thru the rubber. Good luck doing yours.
10-31-20, 10:09 AM
