When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes. Install was pretty easy, but upon further driving it hasn't solved the issue. Wheels were rebranded by discount tire 2 months ago so the vibration is either in the mounting flange or something else. Trying to narrow it down as its only between 60-63mph.
If you are referring to my post on my LS 430 I did not use the Poly bushings, but the IS 350 OEM bushings for my LS 430. They came with the brackets, so a simple R&R of the brackets that included the factory bushings. Bought them on eBay for $140 with free shipping.Took about 90 minutes to R&R.
My new fancy ISF bushings are performing incredibly well. I also researched that there is only one sweet spot in my tein dampers settings which maximises the output and performance of these new bushings. Other setting are fine, but not as good as that single setting that I found.
Also...Some time ago I installed front moog stabilizer links. What a bad decision. They are shot after 10k miles. I am no longer installing any “massaftermarket” junk in my car. Period. (Proforged is obviously excluded). Such a shame to have this annoying clunk in my extremely quite car.
Waiting on OEM links. No more cheap routes. Only quality stuff!
I had replaced : timing belt , thermoset , water pump , spark plugs , radiator , coolant , ATF Drain & Filled , brakes and tires ! Mileage at the time of replacement @ 112K .
Ran into a coyote. Observable damage is bumper cover, fog light, condenser and radiator. The laser/sensor is bent back but it looks like just a bent bracket. I've sourced the parts for $450. The radiator was going to be replaced soon anyway. TB service is due in 6K, so I'm going to do that while everything is out of the way.
My new fancy ISF bushings are performing incredibly well. I also researched that there is only one sweet spot in my tein dampers settings which maximises the output and performance of these new bushings. Other setting are fine, but not as good as that single setting that I found.
Also...Some time ago I installed front moog stabilizer links. What a bad decision. They are shot after 10k miles. I am no longer installing any “massaftermarket” junk in my car. Period. (Proforged is obviously excluded). Such a shame to have this annoying clunk in my extremely quite car.
Waiting on OEM links. No more cheap routes. Only quality stuff!
I think it might just be the moog stuff that's really gone downhill after they moved manufacturing offshore. Some of the other "mass aftermarket" brands seem decent for the price. Haved used some beck arnley and centric on my other car and they seem to be fine.
That said, for more important bits that can't fail (LBJs, etc...) I'd use OEM or a brand like sankei.
Started my coilover conversion and control arm replacement today and got a little hung up on a couple parts. 3 hours in and I've only got one strut removed and a traction arm out. Interior was a little finicky to work through but that's now out of the way. Need to figure out the trac arm length as it needs to center the wheel in the wheel well.
Also discovered that the rear seatbelt guides are adjustable for the passengers. Kinda neat. Was thinking of taking the seat backs out but a lot needs to be retaped and managed when put back. When the seatbelts are out of the way, you can work from outside of the car making everything much easier.
Also got hung up on the air hose bit. A quick google search told me to just cut them if you didn't have the sst. After a bit of looking around, the only things holding the air line in are the two plastic clips. Take a pick between the air line and the inlet and pop these two clips out to remove the air line without any cutting.
Going to try and finish this before it rains on Friday...
I'm sure you know this, but stock the rear wheels and tires are not centered in the wheel well. They sit closer to the front of the wheel well opening. Here is a comparison front to back. I also checked another LS430, same thing.
I'm sure you know this, but stock the rear wheels and tires are not centered in the wheel well. They sit closer to the front of the wheel well opening. Here is a comparison front to back. I also checked another LS430, same thing.
Yeah, I do realize that these cars do have an uneven gap due to the wheel geometry. Mine seems to be a little more pronounced as it's lowered a tad bit on the stock air suspension. When I took the air strut out today, I cycled it around a little and it seems that with the stock alignment that I had on there, the setup would gain a bit of toe and a ton of camber upon compression. From what I understand with these kinds of suspension designs is you're supposed to lengthen the traction arm to reduce dynamic changes in the geometry as it compresses.
Though, for my purposes, I think I'm just trying to center the wheel in the arch and correct the camber issue I was having.
Finished one of the rear corners today. Just need to torque everything down and throw the new sway end links on. Some of those bolts under there are in really tight spots and gave me a pretty hard time. .
Striker, May I check with you how is your reflashed ECM working so far? Has it being consistently outperforming the factory defaults? Does the shifting behavior remain the same as in the first days after installing it?
thanks.
Installed new tires and got an alignment today. Got the Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 installed, and they also have a $70 rebate this month. Wanted the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, but they've been backordered everywhere for 2-3 months with no ETA. Everything was out of spec before the alignment, huge difference afterwards. Pretty bad rear inner tire wear on the old tires. Will do a zero point calibration with Techstream next
Installed new tires and got an alignment today. Got the Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 installed, and they also have a $70 rebate this month. Wanted the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, but they've been backordered everywhere for 2-3 months with no ETA. Everything was out of spec before the alignment, huge difference afterwards. Pretty bad rear inner tire wear on the old tires. Will do a zero point calibration with Techstream next
wow that's the tire I want to get, although, my car went 300 miles since March, so it's as if this year doesn't count, and I won't even need new tires next year either (6/32 per inspection).
Interesting is we have the firestone lifetime alignments on 2 of our cars, and the results will be like what you posted. So I said ***** it, when my wife got the new Bilsteins installed, I let that shop charge us $70 for a 4 wheel alignment, instead of saying oh leave it I'll run it over to Firestone since it's free (he's already got everything loose on the front I don't trust Firestone anymore after going there).
The 1X I did an alignment at the BMW dealership and they charged $130--the car went in all green, but every setting was put into the middle of the range, nothing was at the outskirts and it was symmetrical. I notice that with Firestone, if something is green already, it's not touched, even if it's at one extreme and not symmetrical to the other side. Like on yours, the LF has less camber, the RR has less camber. The LF toe is positive, the RF toe is negative.
What did I do I drove her yesterday about 40 miles round trip, good to take her out on the highway and let things heat up.
Yeah, I do realize that these cars do have an uneven gap due to the wheel geometry. Mine seems to be a little more pronounced as it's lowered a tad bit on the stock air suspension. When I took the air strut out today, I cycled it around a little and it seems that with the stock alignment that I had on there, the setup would gain a bit of toe and a ton of camber upon compression. From what I understand with these kinds of suspension designs is you're supposed to lengthen the traction arm to reduce dynamic changes in the geometry as it compresses.
Though, for my purposes, I think I'm just trying to center the wheel in the arch and correct the camber issue I was having.
Finished one of the rear corners today. Just need to torque everything down and throw the new sway end links on. Some of those bolts under there are in really tight spots and gave me a pretty hard time. .
Did you do all three arms from Figs Engineerings? I am also doing coilovers on mine soon and been researching if I need all three arms. I'm planning on lowering my car about 2".
wow that's the tire I want to get, although, my car went 300 miles since March, so it's as if this year doesn't count, and I won't even need new tires next year either (6/32 per inspection).
Interesting is we have the firestone lifetime alignments on 2 of our cars, and the results will be like what you posted. So I said ***** it, when my wife got the new Bilsteins installed, I let that shop charge us $70 for a 4 wheel alignment, instead of saying oh leave it I'll run it over to Firestone since it's free (he's already got everything loose on the front I don't trust Firestone anymore after going there).
The 1X I did an alignment at the BMW dealership and they charged $130--the car went in all green, but every setting was put into the middle of the range, nothing was at the outskirts and it was symmetrical. I notice that with Firestone, if something is green already, it's not touched, even if it's at one extreme and not symmetrical to the other side. Like on yours, the LF has less camber, the RR has less camber. The LF toe is positive, the RF toe is negative.
What did I do I drove her yesterday about 40 miles round trip, good to take her out on the highway and let things heat up.
I have a set of AS3+ on my winter wheels and they're great tires. Fantastic as it gets colder as they don't stiffen up in the cold as bad as summer tires. A little loud if you're coming from touring tires like the MXM4, but nowhere near as loud as a performance tire like the PS4S.
11-10-20, 10:56 AM
