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Do you have any photos? I am think of taking mine apart. I’ve got a consistent rattle coming from somewhere in the steering column assembly. I have taken it apart down to the clock spring but whatever is rattling in within the steering column assembly itself.
I attempted to reupholster a few things is my car. I started with the steering wheel. I expected a steep learning curve so I am first covering it with a faux leather so I don’t waste nice leather. The job came out satisfactory. I got some nice leather and I will be redoing this job with the lessons I learned along the way. If anyone is interested, watch https://youtube.com/c/Cechaflo. The guy is a leather working wizard. Anyways, here are the photos.
I made my pattern out of this stuff called Swedish fabric. Not bad for a first attempt. Getting the fabric into the grooves proved to be the most difficult part.
I did this Apple CarPlay upgrade to my 05, I really enjoy driving the LS more regardless gas prices skyrocket spike! The BeatSonic trim kit are rare to find and it's expensive as well...but they are the only company sell it, it came with the plug and play adapter which allow retaining the factory navigation, A/C control, backup camera and best of all retain the Mark Levinson amp incorporated with the aftermarket radio, I only lose the MODE, track up/down function. I like how the Sony radio still have the volume **** and it has good features vs the OEM radio. I like how the trim piece color match with factory. The sound quality is up a par compared with the OEM radio. Before the OEM radio removal. The finished setup.
LEX4VL2 integrates directly into your factory radio without the need to replace the ML factory stereo and aftermarket trims. Stock look, better resale value. Just 2c: https://gromaudio.com/store/vline/grom-vl2-lex4.html
Replaced both my wheel bearings, which had developed a slight noise at highway speeds. I feared doing this job for the longest time due to the fact that my car had some fairly rusty suspension parts, some of which were a real PITA to remove. Wanted to avoid removing the spindle and pressing out the bearing if I could.
At first, I tried using the slide hammer. After about 10 minutes of going at it, my arms were killing me so I decided to spray down the hub with Kroil and take a quick break. I remembered reading about someone who suggested using an air hammer on the partially threaded hub bolts, so tried that instead and the hubs came out immediately. I was able to complete the other side in less than 20 minutes. This time around, I instead used the air hammer first and then followed with the slide hammer which was able to remove the hub with a few easy pulls.
Also completed an oil change, a tire rotation, and a smoke leak test of both the intake/vacuum hoses and the exhaust. Identified a small leak coming from the top of the exhaust, which I may address sometime in the near future. Next up is a cosmetic restoration with a 2-stage paint correction, ceramic coating, and front bumper repaint.
Replaced the passenger spark plug o-rings and the valve cover gasket. 195K miles, the o-rings were like hard plastic.
Recently replaced all spark plugs myself and 2 ignition coils that needed replacement and found that 1 spark plug is in oil.
I had intermittent shaking of the car sometimes in the traffic, I hope it will go away.
I didn't notice any major gasket leaks prior to that and hope there won't be any leaks with the new gasket. (I've added RTV in the required points)
Replaced the passenger spark plug o-rings and the valve cover gasket. 195K miles, the o-rings were like hard plastic.
Recently replaced all spark plugs myself and 2 ignition coils that needed replacement and found that 1 spark plug is in oil.
I had intermittent shaking of the car sometimes in the traffic, I hope it will go away.
I didn't notice any major gasket leaks prior to that and hope there won't be any leaks with the new gasket. (I've added RTV in the required points)
How long did it take you? I'm at 114k miles and both of my VCG are leaking. I'm going to tackle them along with plugs and whatever else is needed sometime in the next few months.
Put on a set of Michelin Premier 245/45R18 tires! So quiet on the freeway, I can hear the engine revs change as it goes through the gears!
06 ML, 42,000 miles.
Originally Posted by XJSFan
I have mine at 33PSI but 40PSI sounds really high. You must have roads smooth like glass to have your car run nice with that high tire pressure. LOL... I would keep an eye on how they are wearing in the middle of the tread.
Yea I did 33 for awhile felt real nice now do 36 rides better but you do feel large cracks in highway the ones that aren't avoidable love the frigging car though just this morning it impressed me and I've had it for 2 years almsot
Replaced the passenger spark plug o-rings and the valve cover gasket. 195K miles, the o-rings were like hard plastic.
Recently replaced all spark plugs myself and 2 ignition coils that needed replacement and found that 1 spark plug is in oil.
I had intermittent shaking of the car sometimes in the traffic, I hope it will go away.
I didn't notice any major gasket leaks prior to that and hope there won't be any leaks with the new gasket. (I've added RTV in the required points)
I added RTV only to those points with a visible gasket maker from the factory. I cleaned them and added a new rtv to those points. You will see them.
I marked the main points, but don't remember if I added anything around the center of the cover. Better find a manual - for the passenger side, those points are marked. And torque gradually in a star pattern.
I hope everything goes well and there won't be any leaks Will be paying attention.
And preparing for starter replacement.
UPDATE: it's leaking badly at the bottom. I tried retorquing the all bottom bolts and broke 1 bolt closest to the battery.
The oil is leaking onto the exhaust manifold and burns it / gives smog.
Not sure why the new gasket didn't work, maybe because it sat in my garage for 4-5 years?
I added RTV only to those points with a visible gasket maker from the factory. I cleaned them and added a new rtv to those points. You will see them.
I marked the main points, but don't remember if I added anything around the center of the cover. Better find a manual - for the passenger side, those points are marked. And torque gradually in a star pattern.
I hope everything goes well and there won't be any leaks Will be paying attention.
And preparing for starter replacement.
UPDATE: it's leaking badly at the bottom. I tried retorquing the all bottom bolts and broke 1 bolt closest to the battery.
The oil is leaking onto the exhaust manifold and burns it / gives smog.
Not sure why the new gasket didn't work, maybe because it sat in my garage for 4-5 years?
Did you replace the bolt grommets? They are one-time use. The half-moon seals can be a failure point as well. A simple guide for places to add RTV is anywhere the gasket is making a sharp turn
Did you replace the bolt grommets? They are one-time use. The half-moon seals can be a failure point as well. A simple guide for places to add RTV is anywhere the gasket is making a sharp turn
No, I didn't. They are stiff from the age and gave cracking noises when I bolted them, do you think they play a big role?
I added rtv as per manual, and where the oem rtv was.
Curious if these places require rtv.
Also, ordered all new bolts with grommets. 90109-06163
No, I didn't. They are stiff from the age and gave cracking noises when I bolted them, do you think they play a big role?
I added rtv as per manual, and where the oem rtv was.
Curious if these places require rtv.
Also, ordered all new bolts with grommets. 90109-06163
Yes, they apparently make a difference in terms of accurate torque values and creating an appropriate seal around the entire cover. You definitely don't want to be hearing any cracking noises when torquing the bolts. I learned a lot from watching these two videos:
. He takes a lot of care in making multiple passes when torquing and ensuring an even seal. Over torquing can cause leaks as well.
I attached the FSM, steps 12-14 discuss reinstallation of the valve covers including appropriate locations for FIPG/RTV and torque values. The "curves" you point to in your second pic don't require any, but you were correct in your initial picture. Just to clarify though, FIPG should be applied on the clean cylinder head surface, not the valve covers themselves.
Recently installed front Monroe quick struts. I determined the original front springs were worn out. Really happy with the ride now. Also gave the interior a much needed detailing. Tomorrow I'll dropping off the front bumper to be repainted.
07-25-22, 08:49 AM
Will be paying attention.
