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Over the weekend, I installed new front brake rotors and pads. Also drained and filled 2.5 qts of atf fluid. This car is pretty easy to work on.
I enjoyed doing brakes last weekend. Love how the pads load into the caliper. I do wish someone made speed bleeders though, I put them on everything I buy.
Started her at 5 F. I was being irrational in thinking maybe she wouldn't start. The battery is 2+ y.o. But then I thought, it's still under a free replacement warranty, so therefore it should start the engine, because batteries typically fail outside of free replacement (pro-rata). It's got the smallest alternator in the fleet but seems fine and likes the cold temps OK.
Just paint corrected her and topped it off with cquartz. Not too bad looking for 225k miles
Very nice indeed at 200k+! I like the idea of the exterior E-ZPass as I have to put mine left of the rearview due to the dash cam. But I also need to switch between NJ and NY accounts....
Started her at 5 F. I was being irrational in thinking maybe she wouldn't start. The battery is 2+ y.o. But then I thought, it's still under a free replacement warranty, so therefore it should start the engine, because batteries typically fail outside of free replacement (pro-rata). It's got the smallest alternator in the fleet but seems fine and likes the cold temps OK.
Wait a few days John... You'll be getting what I'm dealing with today.! I started my wife's LS this morning and it was -27 (-5 in the garage)
My Volt has been sitting outside for the last few days and even though it was cold soaked, it fired right up. +5 degrees ain't nothin! Even with a 2 year old battery
Wait a few days John... You'll be getting what I'm dealing with today.! I started my wife's LS this morning and it was -27 (-5 in the garage)
My Volt has been sitting outside for the last few days and even though it was cold soaked, it fired right up. +5 degrees ain't nothin! Even with a 2 year old battery
I think the coldest I have ever experienced is -17 F and that was at Killington Peak in the 80's! I would be concerned with -27 F, not just cars but home. Had a furnace problem in 2013 at about 10 F and it is amazing how quickly the temp goes from 65 to 50 inside. Also amazing was how those different heating cos. who advertise on TV, can never come out for 4-5 days! (sounds stupid but the problem was a dirty filter--but to my defense, it got to the point where they needed replacement every 2 weeks, so something changed over time, used to be ok for 3 mos+)
Replaced the drivers side lower seat heat controller. I now have a seat that actually heats up. Just in time for winter. As an added bonus, found $1.15 in change lurking under the seat...
Where did you figure out how to do this? Sorry, I'm new here. Is there a thread on it? My wife has been complaining about the passenger seat not being very warm. I will agree, in comparison to my previous car it does take a very long time to warm up so I'm just curious if it needs to be serviced.
Preview Replaced the tape player and CD changer with a new Alpine ILX-309 head unit using the Metra DIN kit specific for this car. Pics below. It's 9 inch tablet style unit - I never really liked the 7 inch in-dash units. Fits well and is a nice upgrade I think. This is an Australian RHD spec LS430 with the basic audio setup. The Apple carplay system works well and having Google satellite image nav maps in 3D is very nice. The Alpine's FM tuner is also excellent and the rear camera setup is quite configurable. You can adjust all the reversing lines to suit your particular camera. I used a wide 170 degree unit. I have all the factory wiring diagrams so the install was pretty straight forward.
Also removed the factory rear tuner and Pioneer amp and replaced them with a pair of 4 channel amps that I got cheap secondhand to power the factory 7 speakers which are just fine for me. It is clear and can be quite loud.
One downside is I have lost the rear air-conditioner controls but I have since figured out that I can re-route the multi-plex data signal using the existing audio system wiring so the rear-seat A/C controls could possibly work again. Obviously the rear audio controls won't work but that isn't an issue. Rear seat heaters work still so that's bonus.
Preview Replaced the tape player and CD changer with a new Alpine ILX-309 head unit using the Metra DIN kit specific for this car. Pics below. It's 9 inch tablet style unit - I never really liked the 7 inch in-dash units. Fits well and is a nice upgrade I think. This is an Australian RHD spec LS430 with the basic audio setup. The Apple carplay system works well and having Google satellite image nav maps in 3D is very nice. The Alpine's FM tuner is also excellent and the rear camera setup is quite configurable. You can adjust all the reversing lines to suit your particular camera. I used a wide 170 degree unit. I have all the factory wiring diagrams so the install was pretty straight forward.
Also removed the factory rear tuner and Pioneer amp and replaced them with a pair of 4 channel amps that I got cheap secondhand to power the factory 7 speakers which are just fine for me. It is clear and can be quite loud.
One downside is I have lost the rear air-conditioner controls but I have since figured out that I can re-route the multi-plex data signal using the existing audio system wiring so the rear-seat A/C controls could possibly work again. Obviously the rear audio controls won't work but that isn't an issue. Rear seat heaters work still so that's bonus.
I like it! Looks good, modern, clean.
Me? Went to the gym and got smoked by a Fiesta Titanium! I'm just cruising home 35 mph in a 30, and this maybe 18-20 yo female smokes me and cuts me off. It really lends to my "grandpa" theory with the LS430 (I think people identify with the car and think we are slow drivers). We're the only 2 cars on the road lol
In other situations I have let the other driver know my car has a V8, but in this case I didn't do anything at all.
Removed another worn engine pulley bearing over weekend and this time it was the air conditioner pulley bearing. With the drive belt off there should be no play in the pulley. Mine had some very noticeable play. I have the slightest belt whine when idling so I am working through each bearing one at a time - worst to best. With the drive belt off the engine idles quietly. Now I am waiting for the new bearing to arrive. The alternator and PS pump bearings feel and sound fine with only the large idler left to do (minor play) but I’ll do this when I do the timing belt and water pump in a few weeks.
No need to remove the compressor. Just remove the over radiator intake duct (2 x 10mm screws) to get more room for your arms. You will need a 10mm socket to remove the clutch plate bolt (which you can then pry off) and some inside snap ring pliers to remove the circlip/snap-ring. I used a couple of large screwdrivers behind the pulley, and against the compressor body, to help it off initially. Once you crack it it should then just slide off.
Compressor bearing size is 52mm OD x 35mm ID x 22mm wide. Factory bearing is a NSK 35BD5222DUM18A. I did my Camry V6 (3GR-FE engine) a few weeks ago and this was the exact same bearing and the pulley was identical too. Gotta love Denso standardization. The bearing is easy to remove and replace with a large socket and a hammer. I will use a pin punch to lock it back into place as I’ve done before. Beats replacing a perfectly good compressor.
Did the idlers and tensioner bearing a couple of weeks backs. The ribbed idler bearing was pretty shot and the tensioner bearing was half way there. This made a huge difference to engine idle noise. I can hear the injectors firing now.
Hello all Lexus owners, My First Post.
I just got done working on my 2001 ls430, I installed 2-(VVT) Solenoids L&R, 8-Denso Spark Plugs and 8-Denso Ignition Coils
Total cost = 700.00 in Parts and my labor = to be determined
I had lights on the dash and the car was misfiring and running ruff. (check Eng. red icon,)
I called rock auto in Ohio and they said they could have the parts for me the next day!!! Fed-X 7.00 shipping
It took me 4 hours start to finish. not bad for a backyard Mechanic !
In a month or so i will do a full brake job, Power stop Z-23 ?
Welp, I changed out the MAF sensor yesterday with a Denso unit purchased on RockAuto.
I was hoping to feel some sort of difference, but as hard as I tried, I couldn't sense any. My old/original MAF had 160k miles on it, so I figured might as well just change it out. I wasn't experiencing any issues prior to the changeout except MAYBE a tiny tiny bit of tiny rough idle once in a while. By rough idle I mean I could barely feel a shake in the car, in my butt cheecks (lol) while sitting in the driver's seat and car in park. I actually didn't sit still in park long enough to see if the new MAF eliminated that ever so slight rough idle. I guess that's what I'll check today! I wanted to check before and after "fuel trim levels" and other items on my OBD2 reader that has "live data", but I'm not smart enough to figure out what to look at on it.
I did plugs about 30k miles ago? Two other "preventive" items I'd like to do in the next 6 months are the fuel filter (under the back seat), and also all the engine mounts. I think doing those items near 175k-200k is a good investment. I'd like to try and keep the LS for another couple years. She's just soooooooo smooth and trouble free for 13 year old car approaching 175k miles! (knock on wood)
01-30-19, 04:12 PM
