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How I replaced the rear wheel bearing hub on my 04 base model LS430

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Old 10-20-20, 10:18 PM
  #31  
Spyder187
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Originally Posted by Hipatchy
I had a couple drinks and calmed down. ended up ordering a used knuckle and new caliper bolts on ebay. there's no bushings in there so it should be fine regardless of age.
Anyone have that diagram which shows an exploded view of the components with the torque of each shown? I can't seem to find it on here.
I replaced the drivers side today and it was a piece of cake but a fiddley job as others have stated.
Sorry for the resurrection of this thread.

I messed up the rear bottom caliper bolt - broke it in there and then messed up trying to remove the totally jammed part of the bolt.

I had a question: If we buy a whole rear knuckle assembly with the dust cover and hub still on, do we need to still take apart the hub and dust cover assembly which I assume reveals the bearing.

Or can I just jack up the car and disconnect the different suspension components and just drop in the new knuckle with the hub already assembled onto it.

Any help would be appreciate!
Old 10-26-20, 05:44 PM
  #32  
Hipatchy
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I had a caliper bolt get all mangled up in the rear. I replaced the entire knuckle. It came with a bearing and dust shield installed. I took out the shield and bearing and put a new bearing in so you don't need to worry about prying the shield out if replacing the whole knuckle. I had another caliper bolt all mangled but I bought a thread repair tool instead that time. It worked great I have had it off once since I did the repair and it is holding nicely.

Old 10-27-20, 05:09 AM
  #33  
Bocatrip
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Rear axle hub replacement on our cars is not the easiest fix. Considering the effort involved, getting a quality axle hub such as a Koyo (as well as a proper installation) is the way to go. I've replaced 2 so far, many years ago with no problems since.
Old 02-26-21, 11:47 AM
  #34  
alain173
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I’m having trouble reseating the dust cap. I tried wedging thin metal strips between dust cap and axle But can’t get it to press in deep enough. Any other ideas or better photos of where to wedge these metal strips? I’ve got them wedged on the lip behind the abs ring.
Old 02-26-21, 04:35 PM
  #35  
Hipatchy
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When the dust shield is loose you line it up as straight as possible and release tension on the axle slowly with the pusher tool. Keep going until the tension is off the pusher and the dust shield is still straight. Takes a couple times. The run the axle nut down slowly without any strips this will set it in just a little bit. Then press the axle back out and put in 2 steel strips between the ribbed ring and the dust shield. I cut them up to fit inside the space id say around 3/8 - 1/2" wide. Steel maybe 1/8" thick. Then put axle nut back on and tighten slowly by hand 1/4 turn at a time making sure dust shield goes in straight. I tried wood and aluminum strips first and they just broke or bent.
Old 02-27-21, 03:46 AM
  #36  
alain173
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Thanks. I’ll cut steel strips to your specs. I think part of my problem is my axle nut. Mine was corroded on the axle and had to use an impact to get it off shearing several groves, luckily in the nut and not the axle. Heading to Lexus dealer to get a new one.
Old 05-19-21, 02:29 PM
  #37  
Spyder187
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Originally Posted by Hipatchy
I had a caliper bolt get all mangled up in the rear. I replaced the entire knuckle. It came with a bearing and dust shield installed. I took out the shield and bearing and put a new bearing in so you don't need to worry about prying the shield out if replacing the whole knuckle. I had another caliper bolt all mangled but I bought a thread repair tool instead that time. It worked great I have had it off once since I did the repair and it is holding nicely.
Hey thanks for the reply. I've disconnected the 3 suspension connections, managed to loosen the axle hub nut, loosened the strut connector and the upper control arm connector. The ball joint separator I bought seems too small to fit that upper control arm ball joint though. It's the gearwrench one.

I'm having trouble visualizing how to disconnect the 3 connections for the knuckle. Do I need to loosen/undo other parts of the suspension on the main car itself in order to disconnect the knuckle? Do the other connections need the ball joint separator to be used?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. At this point in time I'm stuck.

Thanks!

The two connections on the bottom seem to oppose each other so do I need to disconnect the other end of the part to free them?

Do I need to use ball joint separator on this one?

Side profile view. Just another photo of the joint from the previous photo.
Do I disconnect that other end? Also, I think I'll need to cut off the stabilization linkage because the hex on the end is stripping and I can't get the bolt off.

Last edited by Spyder187; 05-19-21 at 03:16 PM.
Old 10-16-22, 06:07 PM
  #38  
treehan77
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My tip for the rear hub is to make sure you have a SHALLOW 17mm to unbolt the hub. A deep socket didn’t fit, and neither did my “regular” because the tone ring is too close. Shallow with an extension was the ticket there.
Old 10-19-22, 06:01 PM
  #39  
treehan77
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I also had to fashion a “press” to remove the hub assembly. Basically a large fully threaded bolt with nuts on both sides through one of the lug holes (after knocking it out), then holding the nut with a wrench and zapping it with the impact. Unfortunately, that removed the outer portion only and the inner portion was still stuck. Air hammer finally got it off. It came apart into 3 pieces.



Old 10-26-23, 02:53 PM
  #40  
checkler
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Just wanted to drop a big Thank You to the OP and those who helped with advice. Made the job so much easier!!

I did want to note that I had the ABS Triggering as noted here (https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...riggering.html) and the advice by StanVanDam was spot on. The sensor was out about the width of a tool pick. I removed the speed sensor, cleaned up the end of any magnetic debris, put a tiny dot of silicone to help it slide in and reinstalled. This time I made sure that it was flush against the knuckle and problem solved. So make sure you really get the speed sensor fully seated!
Old 11-01-23, 01:17 PM
  #41  
BigBird63
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GREAT thread. Thank you. I'll be tackling this shortly. Parts are on hand.

Please talk to me about grease here. Some of the YouTube vids for different Lexus models folks are slathering it all over the place. It looks like these bearings here come either sealed or at least pre-assembled and pre-greased. So only a little assembly grease, like on the splines? Or do I need to be doing some serious greasing somewhere?
Old 11-01-23, 01:24 PM
  #42  
treehan77
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I didn’t grease up all kinds of stuff. I put a light coating on the rotor hat and a few areas including the splines.
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Old 11-02-23, 03:11 PM
  #43  
Heinzeken
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Please help. I was using a slide hammer on trying to remove the wheel hub and the bearing separated the same way. How did you manage to get this out?
Old 11-02-23, 03:35 PM
  #44  
treehan77
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I used an air hammer. Decided to do that after just a few whacks with the sledge-didn’t wanna damage anything else if i missed a swing lol. You can see my hub all dented from the sledge. If you don’t have an air hammer, maybe spray some penetrating oil and let it work overnight and try to give it some whacks in the morning.
Old 11-02-23, 03:38 PM
  #45  
Heinzeken
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Thanks for the reply. Really appreciate it.

Did you just push hammer towards each of the bolt holes? Did you heat at all?
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