Restoring Headlights to Like New Condition - No kit allowed
#18
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
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I've never used any of these clear coats in a can so I can't comment ...they can be found at Eastwood, Amazon, Ebay and other sites... or even your local auto paint distributor
Aerosol cans usually only have a 24-48 hr pot life once the activator is activated, so after that time period the product is no longer any good and ready for disposal. Always read and follow directions for best results
Some of these products like Solaray by Sem require curing lamps, maybe for fast curing... the way I see it , nothing is better than good ole free sunshine emitting UV rays
Read reviews on the product before buying as end results vary. Practice spraying techniques before spraying lights, past experiences with cans that provide a spray gun pattern I've noted that it was best to apply more pressure on the end of spray nozzle preventing the spray from hitting the edge of the can.
Safety precautions still apply, wear a mask of some sort.
#19
Driver School Candidate
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Do a search online for 2K clear coat in a aerosol can, make sure it has UV inhibitors ( provides UV protection stated in description )
I've never used any of these clear coats in a can so I can't comment ...they can be found at Eastwood, Amazon, Ebay and other sites... or even your local auto paint distributor
Aerosol cans usually only have a 24-48 hr pot life once the activator is activated, so after that time period the product is no longer any good and ready for disposal. Always read and follow directions for best results
Some of these products like Solaray by Sem require curing lamps, maybe for fast curing... the way I see it , nothing is better than good ole free sunshine emitting UV rays
Read reviews on the product before buying as end results vary. Practice spraying techniques before spraying lights, past experiences with cans that provide a spray gun pattern I've noted that it was best to apply more pressure on the end of spray nozzle preventing the spray from hitting the edge of the can.
Safety precautions still apply, wear a mask of some sort.
I've never used any of these clear coats in a can so I can't comment ...they can be found at Eastwood, Amazon, Ebay and other sites... or even your local auto paint distributor
Aerosol cans usually only have a 24-48 hr pot life once the activator is activated, so after that time period the product is no longer any good and ready for disposal. Always read and follow directions for best results
Some of these products like Solaray by Sem require curing lamps, maybe for fast curing... the way I see it , nothing is better than good ole free sunshine emitting UV rays
Read reviews on the product before buying as end results vary. Practice spraying techniques before spraying lights, past experiences with cans that provide a spray gun pattern I've noted that it was best to apply more pressure on the end of spray nozzle preventing the spray from hitting the edge of the can.
Safety precautions still apply, wear a mask of some sort.
#21
Driver School Candidate
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I took my car to a local car wash / detail place and had them take a look at my headlights. The guy told me that he can restore them but they wont be like new because the headlights, on both sides, had deep scratches in them. I am no expert by any means and I didn't want to insult this guys intelligence but isn't that the purpose of using the wet sandpaper technique? Am I wrong for thinking that?
The guy told me that the scratches on my headlights were caused by stressed material.
Guess my headlights were about to transform into Hulk headlights. I can understand surfaces scratches due to debris hitting them, not hand washing the car but using one of those automatic car washing machines but stressed plastic? Again, I could be wrong.
I didn't see too many deep scratches on xtr3mes headlights and when he was done any scratches he had looked to be basically gone.
The guy told me that the scratches on my headlights were caused by stressed material.
![Confused](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I didn't see too many deep scratches on xtr3mes headlights and when he was done any scratches he had looked to be basically gone.
#22
Racer
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I took my car to a local car wash / detail place and had them take a look at my headlights. The guy told me that he can restore them but they wont be like new because the headlights, on both sides, had deep scratches in them. I am no expert by any means and I didn't want to insult this guys intelligence but isn't that the purpose of using the wet sandpaper technique? Am I wrong for thinking that?
The guy told me that the scratches on my headlights were caused by stressed material.
Guess my headlights were about to transform into Hulk headlights. I can understand surfaces scratches due to debris hitting them, not hand washing the car but using one of those automatic car washing machines but stressed plastic? Again, I could be wrong.
I didn't see too many deep scratches on xtr3mes headlights and when he was done any scratches he had looked to be basically gone.
The guy told me that the scratches on my headlights were caused by stressed material.
![Confused](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I didn't see too many deep scratches on xtr3mes headlights and when he was done any scratches he had looked to be basically gone.
#23
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
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I took my car to a local car wash / detail place and had them take a look at my headlights. The guy told me that he can restore them but they wont be like new because the headlights, on both sides, had deep scratches in them. I am no expert by any means and I didn't want to insult this guys intelligence but isn't that the purpose of using the wet sandpaper technique? Am I wrong for thinking that?
The guy told me that the scratches on my headlights were caused by stressed material.
Guess my headlights were about to transform into Hulk headlights. I can understand surfaces scratches due to debris hitting them, not hand washing the car but using one of those automatic car washing machines but stressed plastic? Again, I could be wrong.
I didn't see too many deep scratches on xtr3mes headlights and when he was done any scratches he had looked to be basically gone.
The guy told me that the scratches on my headlights were caused by stressed material.
![Confused](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I didn't see too many deep scratches on xtr3mes headlights and when he was done any scratches he had looked to be basically gone.
If it's something like this, then no sanding or re-clearcoating is going to fix the problem as the stress marks are inside the plastic.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...v/a94f73f1.jpg
That's an extreme scenario but I have seen similar (although much more mild) stress marks on many Toyota and Lexus headlights headlights. That cannot be fixed.
#24
Driver School Candidate
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Thanks and it's no where near those stress fractures. What I have are scratches. I went ahead and got them to take some of the yellow off with a little sanding, they didn't go through the whole process, 600 grit, 1000 grit, 2500 grit, etc. They buffed them out and wiped them down. they are decent but not where they need to be. I drove home then applied some Jet Sealant 109 and waited 25 minutes then removed the sealant.
I will see if I can get a clear picture with the scratches and post it.
Thanks for the post and the confirmation.
I will see if I can get a clear picture with the scratches and post it.
Thanks for the post and the confirmation.
Last edited by Feliciano; 09-19-14 at 09:16 AM. Reason: Adding pictures
#25
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No sir, I did not polish after 2000 grit wet sanding, you want to leave a semi-porous surface so the clear adheres to the lens
For best results, IMO -
*Spray (2 coats), first spray a medium wet coat and let become tacky *Do Not Touch Lens* Test by touching paper or tape. Once first coat is no longer wet and has become tacky, then spray a full wet coat.
***** If clear runs or orange peel is visible.. do not panic and wipe lens. Let it dry****
* Allow to cure at least 4-6 hrs, then lightly wet sand using 3000 grit to remove any imperfections, trash or bugs that may have gotten on lens while wet. You'll be like why did I just screw my lights up by sanding them again after they looked great from spraying clear, but I would expect you're looking for the same feel smooth, blemish free finish you get after claying a car. If not, spray and top with a wax
*****This step only if you had runs or orange peel. wet sand with 2500 grit, then polish with ' ' 'Menzerna 2500' or equivalent using a tangerine hydrotech pad or wet sand with 2500 grit, then wet sand with 3000 grit and follow step below*****
* Finish by jewelling the lens with ' Menzerna 4500 ' or ' 3M Finesse It ' using a crimson hydrotech pad
* Last step - top with Collinite 845 Insulator wax. You can choose wax of choice, I like the looks of Signature Series II wax but prefer 845 because of its durability (4-6 months), cheap price tag, plus its a hybrid (wax/sealant)
DIYers will be happy with results from just clearing and topping with a wax if they don't have a polisher .. If this be the case, have them polished whenever you get a paint correction done your sexy lexy at a later time...
How much you ask...
* $85/set... includes return shipping within conus, shipped back in packaging lights were originally sent in
* $ 70 for smaller headlights, includes turn signal/running lights
* $70 Local service
No Bill Gates returns here by any means
For best results, IMO -
*Spray (2 coats), first spray a medium wet coat and let become tacky *Do Not Touch Lens* Test by touching paper or tape. Once first coat is no longer wet and has become tacky, then spray a full wet coat.
***** If clear runs or orange peel is visible.. do not panic and wipe lens. Let it dry****
* Allow to cure at least 4-6 hrs, then lightly wet sand using 3000 grit to remove any imperfections, trash or bugs that may have gotten on lens while wet. You'll be like why did I just screw my lights up by sanding them again after they looked great from spraying clear, but I would expect you're looking for the same feel smooth, blemish free finish you get after claying a car. If not, spray and top with a wax
*****This step only if you had runs or orange peel. wet sand with 2500 grit, then polish with ' ' 'Menzerna 2500' or equivalent using a tangerine hydrotech pad or wet sand with 2500 grit, then wet sand with 3000 grit and follow step below*****
* Finish by jewelling the lens with ' Menzerna 4500 ' or ' 3M Finesse It ' using a crimson hydrotech pad
* Last step - top with Collinite 845 Insulator wax. You can choose wax of choice, I like the looks of Signature Series II wax but prefer 845 because of its durability (4-6 months), cheap price tag, plus its a hybrid (wax/sealant)
DIYers will be happy with results from just clearing and topping with a wax if they don't have a polisher .. If this be the case, have them polished whenever you get a paint correction done your sexy lexy at a later time...
How much you ask...
* $85/set... includes return shipping within conus, shipped back in packaging lights were originally sent in
* $ 70 for smaller headlights, includes turn signal/running lights
* $70 Local service
No Bill Gates returns here by any means
Thanks
#26
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
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Thanks and it's no where near those stress fractures. What I have are scratches. I went ahead and got them to take some of the yellow off with a little sanding, they didn't go through the whole process, 600 grit, 1000 grit, 2500 grit, etc. They buffed them out and wiped them down. they are decent but not where they need to be. I drove home then applied some Jet Sealant 109 and waited 25 minutes then removed the sealant.
I will see if I can get a clear picture with the scratches and post it.
Thanks for the post and the confirmation.
I will see if I can get a clear picture with the scratches and post it.
Thanks for the post and the confirmation.
I've had to go as coarse as 320 grit before and work my way up due to some serious pitting. From the looks of those markings, 600 grit should have removed or reduced them if they were on the outside, if properly sanded. The way to tell if the markings are on the inside, spray water over the (white/ashy) sanded headlight, the appearance when wet will be the same as if clear coated. If the markings are inside the light, they will show at this time.
If you will, give feedback on the longevity of the Jet 109. Chemical Guys claims it lasts 1 year, I found it to be nothing but B/S marketing hype, my findings averaged 4-6 months. YMVT
#27
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
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If you wipe the lens, you will have one big nasty sticky mess.
I'm no expert, but if you have any further questions feel free to PM me..
#28
Driver School Candidate
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xtr3m3, thanks and you are correct, the pictures are not that good. I will see what I can do to take a better picture with a darker background.
In regards to the Jet Sealant 109. I have been using that on and off for about a year, mainly on my rims and windows. I used it once to wax my wife's car and didn't like the results so I went back to using their 50/50 brand which does a very nice job, IMO. 1 year on the 109 is doubtful and I don't plan on waiting a year before reapplying. I plan on reapplying the 109 every other week until I can get the headlights professional done.
I was at the Gardena, California Chemical Guys location Friday to pickup some items, next time I am there I will definitely ask them about their claim of 1 year on the Jet Sealant 109.
In regards to the Jet Sealant 109. I have been using that on and off for about a year, mainly on my rims and windows. I used it once to wax my wife's car and didn't like the results so I went back to using their 50/50 brand which does a very nice job, IMO. 1 year on the 109 is doubtful and I don't plan on waiting a year before reapplying. I plan on reapplying the 109 every other week until I can get the headlights professional done.
I was at the Gardena, California Chemical Guys location Friday to pickup some items, next time I am there I will definitely ask them about their claim of 1 year on the Jet Sealant 109.
Last edited by Feliciano; 09-22-14 at 04:50 PM.
#29
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
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xtr3m3, thanks and you are correct, the pictures are not that good. I will see what I can do to take a better picture with a darker background.
In regards to the Jet Sealant 109. I have been using that on and off for about a year, mainly on my rims and windows. I used it once to wax my wife's car and didn't like the results so I went back to using their 50/50 brand which does a very nice job, IMO. 1 year on the 109 is doubtful and I don't plan on waiting a year before reapplying. I plan on reapplying the 109 every other week until I can get the headlights professional done.
I was at the Gardena, California Chemical Guys location Friday to pickup some items, next time I am there I will definitely ask them about their claim of 1 year on the Jet Sealant 109.
In regards to the Jet Sealant 109. I have been using that on and off for about a year, mainly on my rims and windows. I used it once to wax my wife's car and didn't like the results so I went back to using their 50/50 brand which does a very nice job, IMO. 1 year on the 109 is doubtful and I don't plan on waiting a year before reapplying. I plan on reapplying the 109 every other week until I can get the headlights professional done.
I was at the Gardena, California Chemical Guys location Friday to pickup some items, next time I am there I will definitely ask them about their claim of 1 year on the Jet Sealant 109.
Oh wow, must be nice to live close by a big detailing distributor such as CG.. Actually your lights look pretty good, minus the markings. I'm not knocking the product, just CG's claim of 12 months as Billy Bo Bob states in this video ...
Back on subject, I would consider treating lights one more time with Jet 109 and then top every other month with the 50/50. I've never used the 50/50 before but I have a few clients that have me top their vehicles with Celeste Dettaglio and the finished results are always impressive. I've heard 50/50 is comparable in looks, minus longevity but less than half the price. I also have quite a few female customers that love CG's ' stripper ' air freshener and nothing else is acceptable. I saturate several business cards and slide under the drivers and passengers floor mat for longer exposure time.
I'm curious to whether your lights have ever been dressed with a film / tint. Lots of people claim their headlights have crazed after application of certain brand films / tints because of the chemical solution that was used during adhesion process. That's a debate in itself though.
These are the waxes I use on my higher end customers vehicles - Esoteric Signature Series, Swissvax Glacier (white paint only) Celeste Dettaglio and Auto Finesse Desire..... I could go into sealants but these can be discussed later on in the detailing threads.
So yeah, if you still want to take some pictures of the lights at a later time and post them here. I'm sure someone will be able to confirm whether you have a case of crazing or not...
#30
Driver School Candidate
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I just moved to Long Beach about a year ago, before that I lived in Memphis for the past 17 years.
Which wax on your list would you recommend for dark color cars, Brilliant Pearl Blue? I like the 50/50 because it doesn't take too much of the product to apply to a large portion of the vehicle and it comes off relatively easy compare to some other brands. 3M.
Which wax on your list would you recommend for dark color cars, Brilliant Pearl Blue? I like the 50/50 because it doesn't take too much of the product to apply to a large portion of the vehicle and it comes off relatively easy compare to some other brands. 3M.