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FYI on P1354's service description...
Variable Valve Timing (VVT) System Malfunction - Bank 2
This system controls the intake valve timing to proper timing in response to driving condition. The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls Oil Control Valve (OCV) to make the intake valve timing properly, and, oil pressure controlled with OCV is supplied to the VVT controller, and then, VVT controller changes relative position between the camshaft and the crankshaft.
Ok so I got an MIL light today and the code is p1354. I cleared to the code and am gonna keep an eye on this. The car hasnt been stuttering at all this week. Weird.
See post # 5 above. It's the passenger side oil control valve. Part # 15330-50011 or # 15330-0F010. Available online for ~ $80. The OCV solenoids fail in pairs. Your next MIL code (I predict) will be P1349, among others. That's the driver's side OCV - part # 15340-50011. The driver's side OCV may not fail until after you replace the passenger side OCV.
See post # 5 above. It's the passenger side oil control valve. Part # 15330-50011 or # 15330-0F010. Available online for ~ $80. The OCV solenoids fail in pairs. Your next MIL code (I predict) will be P1349, among others. That's the driver's side OCV - part # 15340-50011. The driver's side OCV may not fail until after you replace the passenger side OCV.
Thanks. Is this a serious problem to deal with immediately? Not excited about spending 160 plus bucks on this right now. Should I replace both at the same time or can I just replace the passenger side?
It's going to get worse. I'd definitely replace the passenger side asap. As rkw described, these 2 solenoids control valve timing - one for each bank of 4 cylinders. If one is new and the other old, the control of valve timing may not be in sync. It depends on how the old one reacts after the new one goes in, and that you won't know until you replace the known faulty OCV. Just trying to set your expectations so you don't get depressed if you replace the one, and the other acts up.
Ok ordered the part for the ocv. I also noticed there is a filter that is listed separately. Does it come with the filter?
No, the filters are separate and are very unlikely the culprit of your problem. Besides, they are not easy to get to - involving the removal of your camshaft covers.
I read somewhere previously that once the old OCV is detached, you can gently inject compressed air into the OCV opening to back flush any sludge deposits off the filter. Be sure to open the motor oil filler cap so air can escape, and seal around the OCV opening to focus the air flow through the OCV filter to maximize the effect of the back-flushing. I have not personally tried this technique but it sounds viable. I cannot find the original source of this information and will continue to search to make sure I did not miss any steps and tips.
At what mileage do these usually go out? I assume you replace in pairs?
From the research (there are several threads on this) as well as my own experience, the OCVs may fail and actually throw a MIL code beginning around 100K miles on up to 250K miles where mine failed. However, the OCV solenoids may not be functioning fully & completely, yet not throw a MIL code. There is a range of functionality before the solenoid valve actually fails. For this reason alone, even if you don't get a MIL for both OCVs, it makes sense to replace both OCVs (driver's and passenger's side) at the same time. It would be analogous to replacing only one bank of spark plugs of a V-8. In my case, I replaced the passenger side OCV, and the driver's side OCV couldn't keep up with the variable valve timing functionality of the new one, so it threw a second MIL for the driver's side OCV. Replacing both OCVs addressed not only the MIL codes and rough idle - overall gas mileage improved, and engine performance through the full-range of RPMs is noticeably improved, since the variable valve timing on the cams is now fully operational to OEM specs with the new OCVs.
I read somewhere previously that once the old OCV is detached, you can gently inject compressed air into the OCV opening to back flush any sludge deposits off the filter. Be sure to open the motor oil filler cap so air can escape, and seal around the OCV opening to focus the air flow through the OCV filter to maximize the effect of the back-flushing. I have not personally tried this technique but it sounds viable. I cannot find the original source of this information and will continue to search to make sure I did not miss any steps and tips.
If the OCV screen has sludge deposits that are clogging the OCV screen, you can be sure there are sludge deposits throughout other vital internals of the engine. If this is the case, consider using an additive/cleaner like BG 9800 just before your oil change to help remove sludge and varnish deposits. Add to oil, run engine for 4-5 minutes, then drain and re-fill oil and change filter. Lexus dealers use BG products on high-mileage cars.
I have an 2004 LS430. The engine would shake and the idle speed would drop to 400 rpm. I live in Northern California so I don't believe it is weather related. It happens randomly with engine cold and warm. The car runs fine once the stop light turns green and I accelerate. I have not try to read any code yet. There are no service warning indicator from the car.
12-24-14, 12:27 PM
