I started to feel a slight vibration on the steering wheel (randomly) a few weeks back. I lifted the front wheels off the ground and performed the 12-6 O'clock and 9-3 O'clock test, and sure enough, the passenger side has a bit of free play on the 12-6 O'clock test. Turns out, the lower control arm ball joint was failing!

The replacement was very easy, and I don't believe a wheel alignment is required - here's how I did it...



*** CAUTION *** The steering knuckle is aluminum - it is very easy to cross thread/strip the threads inside. Please see Post #57 for an actual near-disaster example.

 

It really is an easy diy. What year and how many miles do you have on it? I think when I do mine I will do everything at once: lower ball joint, inner and outer tie rod (looks like u did the outer tie rod?) and the large control arm bushing that needs pressed in. And in my opinion, nothing quite like OEM parts for suspension work.

 

It's a 2004 Base model with nearly 110K miles on the clock.

The passenger side ball joint showed signs of failure, but I don't remember hitting a curb or a pot hole beforehand. The rubber seal for this ball joint was torn with its internals exposed, which may very likely be the reason for its demise.

BTW, I re-use both tie rods since the ball joints are still in good condition. Thanks for asking!

 

Nice write-up and pics, rkw77080. This IS an easy DIY, even easier with your write-up.

It's common for the passenger-side ball joint to fail independent of the driver's side, due to the condition of streets and roads. The right (passenger) side of streets and roads have more cracks, dips, bumps, potholes, etc., so that side of the suspension gets more wear and tear. I replaced both lower ball joints, and noticed the passenger side ball was more worn than the driver's side.

 

Great. Thanks. I may do this now myself. Save $200. I have two LBJ's waiting to be installed. When I visited the dealer two days ago I spoke to the shop foreman and he swore up and down that the little pop I hear intermittently is not the ball joints and that they hardly ever fail on the 430. Anyway, mine does not have play at the 12 and 6 test. I think I'm still going to replace them anyway.

Did you buy OEM or aftermarket? How about alignment? How does she feel now?

 

I went with the OEM route (see photo below for part numbers). The replacement definitely resolved the vibration problem, and is tracking true without doing wheel alignment.

 

Glad you're reconsidering DIY on this. Failing ball joints start with a popping or snapping sound when turning the steering wheel. Is the boot on your ball joint broken (would lead to drying out and premature wear of the joint)? Just one bad pothole can damage the ball and eventually lead to a problem. This is what I experienced and replacing the lower ball joints with OEM solved it. No wheel alignment needed either.

 

Excellent write up that should go straight into the books.
Might need it in the future.

 

such a easy part to replace that is easily overlooked. definitely a wear and tear item that needs to be inspected or else this may happen. Pretty common failure on the 2GS, so better safe then sorry.

 

Agreed, 100%


Tom57 is right! I did a quick search online and it seems that more lower ball joint failures occurred on the passenger side.

 

Thanks for the write up with pics and torque figures. Will be a big help to me.

My driver's side lower ball joint is clicking and I will change it out soon. Still good on the 12 and 6 clock position check, but the clicking is the early indicator. This happens mostly at slow speeds with fore and aft momentum shifts. I cal also hear it click at times just putting my weight into the drivers seat..

2nd Gen GS folks have a lot of issues with the ball joints as the above posts point to. The assemblies of both the LS and GS are similar, but not inter-changeable as far as I can tell. Moog does make an after market ball joint for the GS, but not the LS.

Thanks again for the write up.

 

Did you have to remove the calipers on this job? I have everything and I am tackling it tomorrow morning.

 

No, after you remove the 2 mounting bolts from below, the aluminum steering knuckle can simply be lifted up and away. The upper ball joint will allow you to swing the whole assembly (including the brake caliper and disc) out of the way. Here's a picture showing the steering knuckle separated from the lower ball joint.

 

Great. Thanks. Should not be any different with my air suspension I hope.

 

Lower ball joint is totally independent of the shocks / suspension.