deadthing

I changed out my coolant temp sensor and reset the computer. Over the next few days I'll let yall know if my low idle comes back. This week is new injectors also. I'll keep you posted on the progress.

biosurfer1

I went through every hose I could find and only found one that was maybe an issue. I changed it out, so for no difference.

deadthing

Have you checked your alternator voltage? I'm starting to think my alternator could be going out. Sometimes those things can drop to just 11.7 V in cause weird quirky things to happen. I'm going to put a meter on mine tonight and check it out.

deadthing

Another odd thing I noticed today is the same way the idle rpm goes up when I turn the AC on it does the same for the headlights. My idle is low with everything off and when I turn the headlights on it jumps up. I thought maybe low voltage but my alternator reads 13.6 and battery reads 12.8 with car off.

deadthing

I fixed my stutter but I still have the low idle as does my friends sc430 and ls400. Stutter was the vacuum line coming off the air intake muffler was disconnected on the other end where it goes into the solenoid with the line from the air box lid. Im also wondering if that solenoid could be the problem.

JimLindsay

I've just read through this thread, and just wanted to say y'all are awesome, the original poster and everyone who chimed in. This is why I come here.

On my way to the parts store to pick up MAF sensor and throttle body cleaner for my 2001 LS430. Maybe that's my problem, maybe it isn't, but I can't wait to find out!

911LE

Hopefully you read all the way through the thread and realized that the op was incorrect. He is only showing cleaning the IAT (intake air temp) sensor and not the actual MAF sensing wires.
These are the MAF wires:

JimLindsay

Yes, I had read all the way through. Thanks for checking!

StanVanDam

PNC 22273A corresponds to PN 22273-50020 "GASKET, THROTTLE BODY, NO.2", which is CAD$10 at my nearby Toyota dealership. My gasket broke the other day when I did my annual spring cleaning and I came across this thread trying to find the part number.

In my spring cleaning, I inspected the 8 little holes and they looked clean, but forgot to shoot some throttle body cleaner into the 2 big holes on the side, thanks Yamae for pointing this out and that the engine should be running.

I use the Toyota Throttle Body Cleaning Spray (a part of the 3-part Toyota Induction Service Kit, PN 00289-INDKT). Part 1 is Toyota EFI Fuel Tank Cleaner, part 2 is throttle body spray, part 3 is Top Engine Cleaner via attaching a short piece of fuel-safe hose to a vacuum port near the throttle body and using Subaru atomizer tool SOA868V9430 / 10689. Toyota discontinued this tool and sells one with a shorter feed pipe that screws into their new shorter Top Engine Cleaner bottle - I don't have the PN for this shorter tool offhand. The long one works fine without threading the bottle onto it.

My step 4 was replacing the MAF with a new Denso 197-6030 from RockAuto. I have 3 old used and cleaned authentic Toyota MAFs, and after cleaning a few times, I don't think they work like they should and a new MAF is required. I also replaced my engine air filter with a new 17801-50030, old one had 30,000km on it (replacement interval is 48,000) and was visibly heavily contaminated. My idle, power, and mileage is noticeably better after this induction system refresh process.

nvwls

I'm planning on doing this sometime this summer. What port did you use for the Top Engine Cleaner?

StanVanDam

For the most thorough "top engine" cleaning, draw in the top engine cleaner through each of the different vacuum lines: power steering, brake booster, PCV, and EVAP lines. Use a short piece of fuel-resistant hose (not those rubber vacuum lines!) with the correct atomizer tool. The white plastic wedge at the end of the tool is critically important, as you need to atomize the top engine cleaner for it to dispense properly and not lock the engine. Run 1/4 of the bottle through the PCV port, then turn the tool's valve off, bring idle up to 2000-3000 and hold for 20 seconds, then connect your short hose to the EVAP port, same thing, then power steering, then brake booster.

Note that these hoses may be brittle, depending on age and heat exposure, so you may introduce a hairline crack or worse while moving them around, which will create a vacuum leak.

I think that cleaning/replacing the MAF, cleaning the TB, replacing the engine filter, using the Toyota EFI pour-in-tank, and using the Top Engine Cleaner should be done every 48000km.

usedname

Regarding the two big holes in the idle port that should be cleaned with the engine running: do I need to reassemble any of the components when I come to this part of the cleaning? Or is it okay that I've done all the disassembly that is listed in order to get to the TB?

winglau

can you let me know what is VSV?
thanks.

bradland

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...procedure.html

winglau

when I pull the hoses and took out the air duct I noticed the bigger hose connecting to the black box was cracked at the bottom connection to the EVAP system (I think that is what it is). I need to get a new one to replace it but could not find it online or lexus dealerships for a right description. see the picture above - it is the bigger hose on the right side (with the red arrow point to the right). the dealers all described their hoses as ventilation hoses and there is no picture showing. could someone help to provide this information? a part number, a description of the item so that I can search and find it in other places selling lexus parts? lastly, how much is this hose?
Thank you for your help.