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Just thought I'd share another way to fit wheels. I wanted to run my brother-in-law's VIP Modular wheels. The offset was a little aggressive in the rear. I have all the Megan arms in the rear but didn't want to run crazy camber like -7 or anything. Brownman said he had heard of people in Japan notching their subframe, so I tried it. Basically I removed the upper control arms in the rear and used an air powered, mini grinder to cut the holes bigger. I cut them in towards the center of the car and used the marks for the oversized washer as a template of where to cut. It worked great as I can now tuck more aggressive, 11" wide rear wheels. I've since changed my wheels and they also tuck. I'm running -4.2 degrees camber. Here's some pics. I had more pics but I broke my phone and lost them.
This is the first one I notched. Not the best but it worked. The rest are cut better.
Here is before and after pics if the rear. Moved the wheel in so I could tuck.
I did this a few years ago on my 1980 Chevy Malibu (full frame car), but I can't say I've heard of someone doing it to a car with a Unibody.... Good work!
I did this a few years ago on my 1980 Chevy Malibu (full frame car), but I can't say I've heard of someone doing it to a car with a Unibody.... Good work!
Personally I wouldnt do this mod. There is nothing besides the friction of the bolt keeping the arm from sliding around in that slot. I would get a cam bolt and weld on some positioning stops like the toe arms have to lock it in position.
Looking clean.... how long did it take? How hard is it? I'm intermediate when it comes to diy projects.
Also what suspension do you have? Springs coilovers or bags
Personally I wouldnt do this mod. There is nothing besides the friction of the bolt keeping the arm from sliding around in that slot. I would get a cam bolt and weld on some positioning stops like the toe arms have to lock it in position.
I was a little worried about doing it too. But, after looking at it, I knew it would work. It locks in the same way that it does from the factory. The arms are held by the bolt and by the subframe pinched in on them. I only cut in towards the center. Worst that could happen is it gets me max negative camber.
Looking clean.... how long did it take? How hard is it? I'm intermediate when it comes to diy projects.
Also what suspension do you have? Springs coilovers or bags
It took about half a day and about 7 carbide bits. It's not that hard but it is tedious. The hardest part was that the bit wanted to jump around and then it would break. It may be something you could do but be careful. If you mess something up, you will have your upper control arms out. Also, the only way to undo it is to replace the rear subframe. I'm bagged on airlift struts and V2 management.