Sticky Valves = Rotten Egg Smell, Fixed!!!
07-08-15, 06:31 AM
#17
Pole Position
MMO is like an oil-based paint thinner in that it lowers the viscosity of the oil. How much it lowers depends upon not only on how much is added, but also the the total capacity (volume) of the oil crankcase it is added to. MMO recommends no more than 25% of total oil capacity be MMO. Example: In a 5 quart oil capacity crankcase, 1 qt. MMO + 4 qts. oil = 20% MMO by volume. Personally, I would not add more than 1/2 qt. to an LS that has sticky lifters.
07-08-15, 06:56 AM
#18
I think I will run between 1/4 and 1/2 of a quart my next oil change. I don't have any lifters that are sticking but if it helps clean the internals up a little I am all for it. Might be helpful the clean a bit out of the oil control valves as these are a pretty common failure around 150k miles.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 07-09-15 at 03:21 AM.
07-08-15, 08:23 AM
#19
Rotten Egg smell is sulfur, it is caused by fuel mixture off.
I would look to see what your air fuel ratio is at WOT, sounds like it is running lean. If it goes on long enough it can ruin the converter (where the smell is actually coming from).
Our politicians playing chemist mandating 10% ethanol gas is #1 contributor to bad emissions. This causes the car to run at 14.1 AFR instead of 14.67 like it should be with real gas. So the ECU is always having to add fuel to make 14.1 AFR, if it can't (dirty MAF, vacuum leak, more than 10% ethanol in the gas, etc) will push it over the edge, it SHOULD give a check engine light, but doesn't always.
You can clean your own MAF (buy the special MAF cleaner, its cheap and easy), get a scan tool to data log and read LTFT's and see if they are +, they should be very close to 0. If they are in the 10+ range, there is an issue. The ECU will handle it, but it is already compromised.
I would look to see what your air fuel ratio is at WOT, sounds like it is running lean. If it goes on long enough it can ruin the converter (where the smell is actually coming from).
Our politicians playing chemist mandating 10% ethanol gas is #1 contributor to bad emissions. This causes the car to run at 14.1 AFR instead of 14.67 like it should be with real gas. So the ECU is always having to add fuel to make 14.1 AFR, if it can't (dirty MAF, vacuum leak, more than 10% ethanol in the gas, etc) will push it over the edge, it SHOULD give a check engine light, but doesn't always.
You can clean your own MAF (buy the special MAF cleaner, its cheap and easy), get a scan tool to data log and read LTFT's and see if they are +, they should be very close to 0. If they are in the 10+ range, there is an issue. The ECU will handle it, but it is already compromised.
07-08-15, 08:28 AM
#20
Really glad this thread exists as I'm also having the rotten egg smell. I remember it started to occur immediately after my car had been sitting at the dealership for a whole month while they were fixing some major damage they caused to the body while my car was being serviced there. I researched it and found that it was probably a bad cat. I got upset, thinking that they may have sabotaged my cat to get more money from me, but I wasn't sure. Wouldn't there also be an associated check engine code with a bad cat? Either way, I will never trust the dealer again after what I went through with them. I'm starting to do all my own work on the car, with the exception of timing belt/ water pump, which I will take to a trusted independent shop.
One more symptom that may point to cat problems is that I feel heat on the center console area. But this has been going on since I bought the car a year ago and appears unrelated to the sulfur smell. Anyways, I'll figure that one out down the road. For now I'm just trying to figure out what the heck the dealer did to my car to make the sulfur smell appear and how I'm going to fix it. I will try the MMO solution when I do my oil change this weekend. Thanks!
One more symptom that may point to cat problems is that I feel heat on the center console area. But this has been going on since I bought the car a year ago and appears unrelated to the sulfur smell. Anyways, I'll figure that one out down the road. For now I'm just trying to figure out what the heck the dealer did to my car to make the sulfur smell appear and how I'm going to fix it. I will try the MMO solution when I do my oil change this weekend. Thanks!
07-08-15, 09:08 AM
#21
http://autoresource.internetautoguid...eggs-1310.html
Read here for more ideas on the smell.
I'm not convinced at all that "sticking valves" could cause it, not on a Lexus 3UZ-FE. Doesn't make sense to me at all. Been around cars waaaay to long, it doesn't work like that. The issue for "sticking valves" was old school lifters getting plugged with coke, aka, carbonized oil, "quaker state engine" and the lifter sticks and either collapses or doesn't collapse when it should, and one valve isn't right. On a Lexus 3UZ-FE, it isn't like that. So it won't help.
MMO or Rislone (better in my opinion than MMO) would be a very fine oil and high detergent and it would break up some of the coke and get the lifter working again. The 1UZ-FE/3UZ-FE don't have lifters like that. So sludge buildup won't do that.
Rotten Egg smell is fueling and cat related.
Clean the injectors, clean the MAF, consider (only if BAD!) replacing the O2 sensors (front only, rear have no effect on main fueling!!!). MMO isn't the answer. Add it to the gas, that has some effect on injectors, but not in the oil.
Always be very very careful putting stuff in the gas, the fuel injectors are cooled by the fuel, and the windings are exposed to the fuel, if there is a harsh chemical in there, it could strip the varnish off the magnet wire in the injector and cause premature failure.
Read here for more ideas on the smell.
I'm not convinced at all that "sticking valves" could cause it, not on a Lexus 3UZ-FE. Doesn't make sense to me at all. Been around cars waaaay to long, it doesn't work like that. The issue for "sticking valves" was old school lifters getting plugged with coke, aka, carbonized oil, "quaker state engine" and the lifter sticks and either collapses or doesn't collapse when it should, and one valve isn't right. On a Lexus 3UZ-FE, it isn't like that. So it won't help.
MMO or Rislone (better in my opinion than MMO) would be a very fine oil and high detergent and it would break up some of the coke and get the lifter working again. The 1UZ-FE/3UZ-FE don't have lifters like that. So sludge buildup won't do that.
Rotten Egg smell is fueling and cat related.
Clean the injectors, clean the MAF, consider (only if BAD!) replacing the O2 sensors (front only, rear have no effect on main fueling!!!). MMO isn't the answer. Add it to the gas, that has some effect on injectors, but not in the oil.
Always be very very careful putting stuff in the gas, the fuel injectors are cooled by the fuel, and the windings are exposed to the fuel, if there is a harsh chemical in there, it could strip the varnish off the magnet wire in the injector and cause premature failure.
07-08-15, 10:15 AM
#22
I've had the smell come and go. I did feel like the smell issue went down when I replaced my spark plugs, but it's still there every once in a while. So who knows.
For the most part, I've just ignored it. My guess is new cats would probably solve the issue, but I'm not about to throw that kind of money on a guess or something that doesn't really have an effect on how the car runs. There seems to be no codes, and just as part of maintenance, I've replaced the upstream O2 sensors, spark plugs, cleaned MAF, etc. and it's still there.
As catalytic converters age and go through all of those heat cycles with all of that spent exhaust passing over it, they tend to degrade and lose their efficiency. I could see it not burning off the exhaust gasses as well and that's why the smell is there.
Some factory cats likely have the problem worse than others, I actually had a brand new Infiniti that had that problem.
For the most part, I've just ignored it. My guess is new cats would probably solve the issue, but I'm not about to throw that kind of money on a guess or something that doesn't really have an effect on how the car runs. There seems to be no codes, and just as part of maintenance, I've replaced the upstream O2 sensors, spark plugs, cleaned MAF, etc. and it's still there.
As catalytic converters age and go through all of those heat cycles with all of that spent exhaust passing over it, they tend to degrade and lose their efficiency. I could see it not burning off the exhaust gasses as well and that's why the smell is there.
Some factory cats likely have the problem worse than others, I actually had a brand new Infiniti that had that problem.
07-08-15, 01:09 PM
#23
A does of Seafoam DeepCreep or AC Delco X66A (or X66P if you dare, I would) does wonders cleaning the combustion chambers.
I also have used the garden hose on low pouring down the carb and revving it up. Creates enourmous amounts of steam in the chamber and cleans it.
On my GS I am running Water VAPOR injection now (allow vacuum to bubble through a 50/50 mix of water/91% alky). Long term tests with the Canadian Mounted Police showed phenomenal clean chambers when this was done (needed for engines that never shut off in winter). Of course I won't have the chambers visible for some time, but spark plugs are coming out this weekend or next.... They will tell a tale too.
Don't buy the increased power/mpg, likely not gonna happen. But for engine chamber cleaning, yes, very good.
And for those who think it water doesn't work... Read on... Been done in the Army Air Corps/Air Force for ages.... Anyone who has seen a B52 take off with billowing clouds of smoke has seen 1700 gallons of water being consumed by the 8 J57 engines....
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyjoC7MVI2w
I also have used the garden hose on low pouring down the carb and revving it up. Creates enourmous amounts of steam in the chamber and cleans it.
On my GS I am running Water VAPOR injection now (allow vacuum to bubble through a 50/50 mix of water/91% alky). Long term tests with the Canadian Mounted Police showed phenomenal clean chambers when this was done (needed for engines that never shut off in winter). Of course I won't have the chambers visible for some time, but spark plugs are coming out this weekend or next.... They will tell a tale too.
Don't buy the increased power/mpg, likely not gonna happen. But for engine chamber cleaning, yes, very good.
And for those who think it water doesn't work... Read on... Been done in the Army Air Corps/Air Force for ages.... Anyone who has seen a B52 take off with billowing clouds of smoke has seen 1700 gallons of water being consumed by the 8 J57 engines....
www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyjoC7MVI2w
Last edited by RamAirRckt; 07-08-15 at 01:14 PM.
07-08-15, 03:45 PM
#25
Basically this is what you can do if you want to go all in....
More or less, this is a way to do it....
How To Remove Carbon Deposits Inside A Car Engine With Water - YouTube Remember, when the water gets past the throttle body it will be in a high vacuum, it will become a vapor pretty quickly. Its pretty warm and a vacuum, it will steam up very quickly, and then add fire and compression and air? Its a super steam clean.... And where does it go next? Cats.... They get it too....
Scary, but I have done it on my old low compression iron head/block engines, never on a high compression like a 1UZ-FE. But I don't see why it would be a problem. Again, moderation and keep it revved up (2000 rpm or so, keep it running and NEVER EVER NEVER add water to a stalled engine!!)
Adding water to the engine is ok, as long as you don't go overboard (hydrolocking breaks things!!!). A spray bottle is probably better for someone who has never done it. You can add 50% or more of isopropyl alky too.
More or less, this is a way to do it....
How To Remove Carbon Deposits Inside A Car Engine With Water - YouTube Remember, when the water gets past the throttle body it will be in a high vacuum, it will become a vapor pretty quickly. Its pretty warm and a vacuum, it will steam up very quickly, and then add fire and compression and air? Its a super steam clean.... And where does it go next? Cats.... They get it too....
Scary, but I have done it on my old low compression iron head/block engines, never on a high compression like a 1UZ-FE. But I don't see why it would be a problem. Again, moderation and keep it revved up (2000 rpm or so, keep it running and NEVER EVER NEVER add water to a stalled engine!!)
Adding water to the engine is ok, as long as you don't go overboard (hydrolocking breaks things!!!). A spray bottle is probably better for someone who has never done it. You can add 50% or more of isopropyl alky too.
07-08-15, 06:44 PM
#26
The risk is just not worth the payoff with putting water down the engine to try and get rid of the carbon in the engine or the cats. I have no doubt you can get it clean that way, but a slip of the hand and your buying a new engine.
You can find all sorts of examples where someone went through a deep puddle and their engine hydrolocks.
You can find all sorts of examples where someone went through a deep puddle and their engine hydrolocks.
07-08-15, 10:55 PM
#27
I wouldn't call it risk. Ask your grandfather if he remembers doing this, it used to be a mechanics trick to do.
Driving through a puddle is not where near this. That is a complete sucking up of 100% water. That will ruin an engine. This is nothing like spraying some water in the engine. Nowhere close.
Personally I would just use a spray bottle. Easy and simple and safe.
Driving through a puddle is not where near this. That is a complete sucking up of 100% water. That will ruin an engine. This is nothing like spraying some water in the engine. Nowhere close.
Personally I would just use a spray bottle. Easy and simple and safe.
07-09-15, 03:41 AM
#28
Alright, so I'll prop open my throttle body, put the hose in, and rev it up and turn the water on... 
No thanks, I'll pass. Really not necessary. Even with seafoam and other induction cleaners you can run the risk of fouling plugs, injectors, and it's not good, in general, for the O2 sensors or cats. I think if you are that worried about it just pull the intake manifold off and clean it manually. I don't doubt that the water mix is effective I just think it's unnecessary and risky. Not something professional mechanics do in today's vehicles. Slow and steady is the way to go. It's safe and effective. I run the Dura Lube Severe fuel system cleaner every 5k miles and I get phenomenal highway gas mileage. This is a sign, at least to me, that the vehicle is running at great efficiency.
No thanks, I'll pass. Really not necessary. Even with seafoam and other induction cleaners you can run the risk of fouling plugs, injectors, and it's not good, in general, for the O2 sensors or cats. I think if you are that worried about it just pull the intake manifold off and clean it manually. I don't doubt that the water mix is effective I just think it's unnecessary and risky. Not something professional mechanics do in today's vehicles. Slow and steady is the way to go. It's safe and effective. I run the Dura Lube Severe fuel system cleaner every 5k miles and I get phenomenal highway gas mileage. This is a sign, at least to me, that the vehicle is running at great efficiency.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 07-09-15 at 03:49 AM.
04-23-22, 08:44 PM
#30
Lead Lap
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It worked!!!
Hello all,
I wanted to post a possible solution for all the fellow Lexus LS430 owners on here who have been having the same problem I have since I bought my 2001 LS430 five months ago: Rotten egg smell under moderate to heavier load / acceleration. My problem was, as most of the threads have speculated, too much fuel in the mix being unburnt, thus causing the catalytic converters to be bogged down under load.
I had sticking valves that showed no obvious symptoms in drive ability other than the constant choking smell of sulfur any time I needed to accelerate quickly or climb steep hills. The engine had not been very well maintained and has a slight sludge problem. I put in one quart Marvel Mystery Oil to my crankcase, which frees stuck valves and lifters, drove approximately fifteen minutes, and noticed the engine seemed to have the life back into it! I've been driving it like this way for over a week, taken a few out-of-town trips on the highway, and have had not one instance of sulfur smell at all since! I tried Amsoil engine flush first, but the problem continued for months until I used the MMO.
For those of you at your wits-end, give this a try. I'm very happy with my results and wish to share my experience with all my fellow Lexus owners out there desperate to solve this highly annoying problem!
M. R.
I wanted to post a possible solution for all the fellow Lexus LS430 owners on here who have been having the same problem I have since I bought my 2001 LS430 five months ago: Rotten egg smell under moderate to heavier load / acceleration. My problem was, as most of the threads have speculated, too much fuel in the mix being unburnt, thus causing the catalytic converters to be bogged down under load.
I had sticking valves that showed no obvious symptoms in drive ability other than the constant choking smell of sulfur any time I needed to accelerate quickly or climb steep hills. The engine had not been very well maintained and has a slight sludge problem. I put in one quart Marvel Mystery Oil to my crankcase, which frees stuck valves and lifters, drove approximately fifteen minutes, and noticed the engine seemed to have the life back into it! I've been driving it like this way for over a week, taken a few out-of-town trips on the highway, and have had not one instance of sulfur smell at all since! I tried Amsoil engine flush first, but the problem continued for months until I used the MMO.
For those of you at your wits-end, give this a try. I'm very happy with my results and wish to share my experience with all my fellow Lexus owners out there desperate to solve this highly annoying problem!
M. R.
I’ve had egg/sulfur smell under heavy throttle for over a year. Mechanic had no resolution and also showed me the Lexis bulletin about not replacing the cat. Just been living with it. Happened upon this post and also happened to have some MMO in the garage. Tossed about a half quart in and also about 8-10oz in my full tank of gas. After about three minutes of driving I gave it a good romp while in S-1/first gear….smell was greatly reduced. Found a stop sign and shifted back into first…pegged redline, shifted and pegged redline again…no a bit of sulfur to me smelled!!!!
THANK YOU for posting this.
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