Brake pads and rotors, compressing pistons?
#1
Brake pads and rotors, compressing pistons?
Hi there everyone on the forums,
Recently on a road trip from Seattle to San Francisco and then Las Vegas, I discovered some problems with the brakes in our 2002 LS430.
It made a really loud humming noise, and after we got back to Seattle, I diagnosed the car needed new rotors and pads.
I was wondering for these 4 piston and 2 piston brakes, when you put in new pads, how do you compress the pistons?
The ordinary brake compressor tool with the **** wouldn't work, because there is no hole for the screw to go through.
I've seen the brake pad jobs but it wasn't stated in the post.
Thanks everyone!
P.S. I am also looking to try out the EBC Stage 2 kits for pads and rotors, anyone have experience with them?
Here's the part #'s if it matters: S2KF1166 (Front), S2KR1366 (Rear)
Recently on a road trip from Seattle to San Francisco and then Las Vegas, I discovered some problems with the brakes in our 2002 LS430.
It made a really loud humming noise, and after we got back to Seattle, I diagnosed the car needed new rotors and pads.
I was wondering for these 4 piston and 2 piston brakes, when you put in new pads, how do you compress the pistons?
The ordinary brake compressor tool with the **** wouldn't work, because there is no hole for the screw to go through.
I've seen the brake pad jobs but it wasn't stated in the post.
Thanks everyone!
P.S. I am also looking to try out the EBC Stage 2 kits for pads and rotors, anyone have experience with them?
Here's the part #'s if it matters: S2KF1166 (Front), S2KR1366 (Rear)
#2
The "screw" doesn't go into a hole. We're assuming you're referring to this device:
http://www.greenhybrid.com/share/fil...5/DSCN3359.jpg
http://www.greenhybrid.com/share/fil...5/DSCN3359.jpg
#6
No particular order. But once you compress one piston, use a seat clamp to hold it down while you compress the other on the same caliper. Otherwise, you'll squeeze one and the other will open back up. (There are only 2 pistons on each front caliper.)
How large channel locks? Large enough to get around the caliber body.
Do not open bleeders for piston compressing. Open bleeders only for brake fluid bleeding, which you should do at the end after installing new pads.
How large channel locks? Large enough to get around the caliber body.
Do not open bleeders for piston compressing. Open bleeders only for brake fluid bleeding, which you should do at the end after installing new pads.
#7
What I did was compress one side, then the other and alternate until they are fully pushed in. You will see when you switch sides, the piston on the other side will pop out a little bit, but not fully. In other words, if you keep alternating eventually they will cease to pop out and you will be able to install your new pads.
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#8
Hi there everyone on the forums,
Recently on a road trip from Seattle to San Francisco and then Las Vegas, I discovered some problems with the brakes in our 2002 LS430.
It made a really loud humming noise, and after we got back to Seattle, I diagnosed the car needed new rotors and pads.
I was wondering for these 4 piston and 2 piston brakes, when you put in new pads, how do you compress the pistons?
The ordinary brake compressor tool with the **** wouldn't work, because there is no hole for the screw to go through.
I've seen the brake pad jobs but it wasn't stated in the post.
Thanks everyone!
P.S. I am also looking to try out the EBC Stage 2 kits for pads and rotors, anyone have experience with them?
Here's the part #'s if it matters: S2KF1166 (Front), S2KR1366 (Rear)
Recently on a road trip from Seattle to San Francisco and then Las Vegas, I discovered some problems with the brakes in our 2002 LS430.
It made a really loud humming noise, and after we got back to Seattle, I diagnosed the car needed new rotors and pads.
I was wondering for these 4 piston and 2 piston brakes, when you put in new pads, how do you compress the pistons?
The ordinary brake compressor tool with the **** wouldn't work, because there is no hole for the screw to go through.
I've seen the brake pad jobs but it wasn't stated in the post.
Thanks everyone!
P.S. I am also looking to try out the EBC Stage 2 kits for pads and rotors, anyone have experience with them?
Here's the part #'s if it matters: S2KF1166 (Front), S2KR1366 (Rear)
Very handy tool to have around the house and garage.
#9
Hi there everyone on the forums,
Recently on a road trip from Seattle to San Francisco and then Las Vegas, I discovered some problems with the brakes in our 2002 LS430.
It made a really loud humming noise, and after we got back to Seattle, I diagnosed the car needed new rotors and pads.
I was wondering for these 4 piston and 2 piston brakes, when you put in new pads, how do you compress the pistons?
The ordinary brake compressor tool with the **** wouldn't work, because there is no hole for the screw to go through.
I've seen the brake pad jobs but it wasn't stated in the post.
Thanks everyone!
P.S. I am also looking to try out the EBC Stage 2 kits for pads and rotors, anyone have experience with them?
Here's the part #'s if it matters: S2KF1166 (Front), S2KR1366 (Rear)
Recently on a road trip from Seattle to San Francisco and then Las Vegas, I discovered some problems with the brakes in our 2002 LS430.
It made a really loud humming noise, and after we got back to Seattle, I diagnosed the car needed new rotors and pads.
I was wondering for these 4 piston and 2 piston brakes, when you put in new pads, how do you compress the pistons?
The ordinary brake compressor tool with the **** wouldn't work, because there is no hole for the screw to go through.
I've seen the brake pad jobs but it wasn't stated in the post.
Thanks everyone!
P.S. I am also looking to try out the EBC Stage 2 kits for pads and rotors, anyone have experience with them?
Here's the part #'s if it matters: S2KF1166 (Front), S2KR1366 (Rear)
For the rears I went with Brembo rotors and Bendix pads. Was around $250 for everything. Make sure you release your parking brake before trying to remove the rear rotors otherwise you will rip-off and damage the parking brake retaining clips!
Discard the shims that come with the new pads and reuse the stock stainless shims.
If you have a dial indicator or can loan one from a buddy check that the lateral runout is 0.002" or less on each rotor. If it is high, you will get vibration through the steering wheel when you brake.
Also, don't buy cheapy rotors and pads. Most likely they will warp or have high lateral runout. I know with the rotors above I was able to get 0.0007-0.0008" per side. Expect to pay $80-$100 dollars per rotor for a good quality piece.
#10
Wow, thanks for all the help! I'll be probably starting this job soon!
As far as reusing factory shims, this car had its brakes serviced before and it looked to me like it was done by not a very well named shop. I think factory shims are very unlikely to still be in the car at this point.
Should I go OEM on the parts, or aftermarket?
And also, bit confused on what lateral runout is, can someone here please explain that?
Thanks for all the help guys!
As far as reusing factory shims, this car had its brakes serviced before and it looked to me like it was done by not a very well named shop. I think factory shims are very unlikely to still be in the car at this point.
Should I go OEM on the parts, or aftermarket?
And also, bit confused on what lateral runout is, can someone here please explain that?
Thanks for all the help guys!
#13
Note that the lug nuts are fastened to hold the rotor to the wheel bearing hub during runout check. Also, another way to try and minimize runout is to install the rotor onto a different wheel stud to see if runout is reduced. With 5 wheel studs, you have 5 options to install the rotor. If the wheel bearing is rusty, use a wire brush to clean it before installing the rotor.
#15