jpv7774

Ok...another shot at a tutorial for me.....just trying to help the next guy because I couldnt find an accurate video to help. I think all of our cars have diff packages and are slightly different. Im not so good at this stuff but will try to get my points across to better arm you to get the job done. First note that i used United Radio out of New York to repair my amp.....They were first class USA....worked fast and got it back to me fast. They charged $475.00 to repair

The removal.....yikes!

Clue......its in the trunk ......on the right side of the trunk. Remove everything from trunk. I will leave it to you to know how to remove all the trunk fasteners to get to the amp.....there are three or four diff kinds of fasteners holding the felt in place. U will need to remove the entire corner of trunk lining. The amp is INSIDE the right inner fender well yes peek in there u will see it. Take pics before removing......note that the parking sensor computer is riding piggy back on the amp. U must remove this before removing the amp. First un plug all plugs to both pieces. Then look to the bottom right of the piggy back smaller computer....u will see a gold bolt.....remove that gold bolt.....now the top smaller computer will slide out like a quick release. Once that is out....use your common sense and my pics to remove the 2 nuts and the 2 plastic retainers to release the amp and bracket. Be careful to slide it out gently it is possible to dent the sheet metal and that could show through to the outside. Once the amp is out....teach yourself how the quick release works so u can re install in 2 weeks w no issues. Reinstall in the reverse......so much easier when u know what u are doing. I am hoping this ramble makes some sense....I will now load a bunch of pics to back up this ramble. Good luck......feel free to ask questions.

jpv7774

More pics for u.......showing how the quick release works.....

jpv7774

As it turned out my amp was blown due to the used car dealer putting an incorrect subwoofer in my car which did not match the impedance of the system ....this made my amp work too hard and over heat. I bought a used OEM sub for $125.00 off of this site and my amp was repaired for $475.00 .....this was a big hit...but save a bunch doing it myself.

tip. you can put your parking sensor back in and plug it in while u are waiting for your amp to be fixed...just make sure to not let it flop around back there.

good luck!!!!

whooodat

iTrader: (4)

Great write up JPV!!!

JffGRY706

loud music hurts my ears. Ted Nugent made my ears ring for days

jpv7774

I am out of town....away from computer. Will try to.respond via cell phone.
Thanks Whooodat
And JFRY....it sounds as good as it did before which in my opinion isnt that great. It is good enough for me though. To replace the entire system is far too expensive...so getting back on grid for 600 hurts....but hey, im back on grid!!!

Catalina45

I followed these instructions and have the computer parking assist computer out and the amplifier dismounted from the brackets. I can now ship the amplifier out to be rebuilt. One follow up question; I plan to drive the ‘04 while the amplifier is being rebuilt. Do I need to temporarily mount and plug in the parking assist module?

Here is a few pictures of the module.

jharris400

Sure why not? Just plug it in you're not going to hurt anything.

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

I was planning on pulling out my factory amp but never really looked into where it was located. This will be very helpful.

CA2WALS430

@jpv7774 , not sure if you are still floating around here or not, but a big thank YOU for your post. I just replaced my amp and only had the confidence to do it because of this thread and these 2 Youtube videos:

This guy is hilarious and I don't think he has the fix to the problem, but nevertheless he does show some amp removal and offer commentary:

These guys are way too quick, but still the more images you see, the more your confidence builds:

I will confirm the 'quick release' parking sensor mechanism was a little tricky, and when I put it back in I wasn't super convinced. I did it 100% right, but the top is not totally secure; the bolts just kind of sit there in plastic, but there is still a little play. Hmm, I guess if it hasn't had a problem for 20 years......

Beware those little 8mm hex bolts that hold the amp braces on are a little soft. I shredded one by hand, no power, and had to have someone drill it out. Then I couldn't find any Lexus or Toyota dealer that had the screw, 90153-50010, in stock, so I ended up at a nut and bolt company. He wasn't super thrilled about helping me for a $1.00 purchase, but nevertheless, he came through and all is well.

Anyway, good thread here and thank you again.