Originally Posted by rkw77080

As I said, increased resistance will not harm the amplifier. In fact, the ML door speakers should be rated at 8-ohms.

Power output varies proportionally with current flow, and inversely with resistance. A good analogy to this relationship would be something like using a garden hose to clean your driveway. At the start when the nozzle is closed, you have a very large resistance (high resistance) to water flow. Then you squeeze the trigger half way to reduce the resistance (medium resistance) to allow some water to flow, and when you encounter some stubborn debris that need extra blast of water to remove, you pull the trigger all the way in (least resistance) to allow the maximum amount of water to pass.

The only difference between water flow and electrical current flow is that the latter generates heat. This is the whole theory behind electrical fuses. Each fuse is designed to pass a certain amount of current, and should its maximum rated current is exceeded, the heat generated will melt the fuse element and the fuse is said to be “blown”.

Here's a sketch of how you can use the rear speaker channel to drive both front and rear in series. Wire colors shown are based on factory equipment since I have no way of knowing what modifications had been made. Also, please check to make sure that the front speakers wires are not grounded and are not shorted to each other (see previous post). As with any advice you obtained from the internet, please proceed with caution, and at your own risk. I cannot be responsible for any damage or injury this may cause.