KawiLex

170k on 02.

I previously ordered a rear sport sway bar from the dealer and installed it(breaking a bolt on reinstallation, so use new bolts for the sway bar bushing install) 6 months ago or so. Bought the bolts at Napa.

I did not do the end links at that time and should have.

I did the end links this morning. Total time was about 1.5 hours due to learning curve on the first end link(the second took less than half the time of the first).

If you want to know how I did it... here you go..

I put the jack, with a piece of wood on top, under the rear diff and jacked the rear up about 6-8 inches.. with the wheels still touching the ground but giving enough room to work. I then removed the two nuts that hold that plastic under carraige piece in front of the rear end links. Not sure what that plastic does but you can move it a bit with the nuts off and crank on the end links with more room. I couldn't get the wrench where I wanted it without moving these plastic pieces.

I then removed the end links and that was some work. I had to use a pliers to hold the end link on the inside of the boot while I cranked on the outside nutz. The washer and male end would endlessly spin otherwise once broken free.

I then put the new end links on and hand tightened the nuts while the car was still on the jack. I then lowered the car and tightened everything up. This is the part that is important according to all of my reading. You must tighten the end links with a normal load on them and not while jacked up!

The rear end had been creaking right after I previously replaced the sway bar and that was sad for an LS owner! I previously tightened the end links while the car was jacked, so I know first hand not to do that now.

The car now corners noticeably better and is silent! What a great cheap upgrade that I'll now do in front. Next on the radar though is the main bushings up front.

toddmorr

interesting points, esp about tightening the links with normal load on the wheels. The repair manual doesn't mention this but i suppose it makes sense. The manual simply says to install the bar, torque it down, then install the end links, and torque them.
I've ordered links and bushings and will do this next weekend. Car has 77k miles but it made a noticeable improvement when I did the fronts a week ago, so why not give the rears a go.

KawiLex

Hey Todd,
Are there any special instructions or headsup you can give for when I do the front end links? I thought I'd jack up one side, remove a wheel, and unbolt one end link at a time. Is it this straight forward?

Thanks!
Tom

Tom57

Undercarriage plastic covers (front and rear) are for critical aerodynamics. The LS coefficient of drag ("CD") was actually rated better than a Corvette when they were manufactured.

toddmorr

hi...not really. It was straightforward....however, I'd suggest you get both wheels off the ground at the same time by jacking the front at the mid point, using that heavy duty underba as the pressure point, just behind the front plastic cover. I suggest both at the same time because you can then loosen both sides at the same time, without the risk of somehow bending something if one side has weight on it, and is tight, while you upweight the other side and loosen it. I could be just a worrywart on this point but I prefer to loosen things equally side to side with equal (minimal) weight stress on both sides.
you also don't need to remove the height sensor mechanism, just loosen it.
also, avoid tightening the bar bushing bolts too much,,,those can be stripped easily because its so easy to get good torque on them.
another point....you need to loosen the lower shock mounting bolt, which if I remember right is either a 17 or 19mm. It needs to be tightened to something like 100+ ft lbs. The thing is, I only have a 1/2 inch torque wrench, and no socket of that (relatively) small size for a 1/2 inch. So i had to guess and really wail on it with a 3/8 inch rachet. At some point soon, I'll get a 3/8 inch torque wrench and retorque it properly....think that bolt is important.

toddmorr

did my rear links and bushings the other day. Boy that is one wimpy sway bar, compared with anything I used to see on my old muscle cars. Anyway, simple job. I did NOT have to remove either rear wheel, just jacked it at the pumpkin up by only a couple inches, to get some tension off the bar.
Loosen both sides, loosen the links, reinstall, no issues. Easier than the front I'd say.
I used OEM bushings and Beck Arnley links from Rockauto....Beck's were like 20 bucks versus 80 for OEM. OEM didn't seem worth it to me. And for some reason, its a different part number right to left.
Car rides somewhat smoother and less roll....no doubt about it

KawiLex

Ya, the rear sway bar was weak sauce! Glad I got the sport bar!
I did the front end links today.

Jacking the car in the middle up front on the frame in order to be able to reinstall the new end link is important bc the sway bar needs to have tension off of it. If you only jack one side then good luck getting the sway bar low enough to get the bolt through. Thanks for the tips Todd!

Easy job with that in mind.

I truly feel a difference in the car and didn't think I really would.

Installed Moog end links up front and on rear.