Professional headlight restoration with imperfections
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Professional headlight restoration with imperfections
I just finished having my headlights restored by a professional headlight restoration company. I have used this company before. I inspected the headlights today in the direct sunlight. Yes, the clarity has improved 95% and from a distance or without direct sunlight they look great. However, in sunlight and very close inspection, I see what appears to be sporadic streak hazing in patches at different parts of the headlights. While most areas are absolutely perfect others has this hazing in what appears to be semi circle patches,( I don't have a better way to describe them) After doing some research on headlight forums, the info I'm getting is that this might be the hazing from the sanding marks left under the clear coat that was applied after sanding with what appeared to be 3 types of sandpaper. Anyone else experience this and am I being too particular? Should I have the job redone? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Bocatrip; 09-08-16 at 02:54 PM.
#2
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
If it was a professional who left evidence of their handiwork I would absolutely speak to them on correcting their mistake.
There is also a possibility however that the blemishes are on the inside of the lense. I did my own and spent a long long time on the final stages making sure I polished everything out of that sucker, and I did observe some "weirdness" on the inside of the lense that I only noticed when the lights are on. Conclusion? No way thats on the outside I polished it to no end! It must be on the inside (I hope).
There is also a possibility however that the blemishes are on the inside of the lense. I did my own and spent a long long time on the final stages making sure I polished everything out of that sucker, and I did observe some "weirdness" on the inside of the lense that I only noticed when the lights are on. Conclusion? No way thats on the outside I polished it to no end! It must be on the inside (I hope).
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
If it was a professional who left evidence of their handiwork I would absolutely speak to them on correcting their mistake.
There is also a possibility however that the blemishes are on the inside of the lense. I did my own and spent a long long time on the final stages making sure I polished everything out of that sucker, and I did observe some "weirdness" on the inside of the lense that I only noticed when the lights are on. Conclusion? No way thats on the outside I polished it to no end! It must be on the inside (I hope).
There is also a possibility however that the blemishes are on the inside of the lense. I did my own and spent a long long time on the final stages making sure I polished everything out of that sucker, and I did observe some "weirdness" on the inside of the lense that I only noticed when the lights are on. Conclusion? No way thats on the outside I polished it to no end! It must be on the inside (I hope).
#4
Wait until its fully cured, but it's not a good sign if you're seeing that already. Maybe post some pictures?
I would have him redo it without question if you're unhappy, especially since you really paid top dollar to have him do it.
FWIW, when I did mine it had DEEP scratches and potmarks and the clear coat sealer filled them in to where most casual observers would think it had new headlights.
I would have him redo it without question if you're unhappy, especially since you really paid top dollar to have him do it.
FWIW, when I did mine it had DEEP scratches and potmarks and the clear coat sealer filled them in to where most casual observers would think it had new headlights.
#5
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Wait until its fully cured, but it's not a good sign if you're seeing that already. Maybe post some pictures?
I would have him redo it without question if you're unhappy, especially since you really paid top dollar to have him do it.
FWIW, when I did mine it had DEEP scratches and potmarks and the clear coat sealer filled them in to where most casual observers would think it had new headlights.
I would have him redo it without question if you're unhappy, especially since you really paid top dollar to have him do it.
FWIW, when I did mine it had DEEP scratches and potmarks and the clear coat sealer filled them in to where most casual observers would think it had new headlights.
Last edited by Bocatrip; 09-09-16 at 12:39 PM.
#6
It's tough to know the line between being someone being realistic or a perfectionist, but you said you used him before and you were happy, so to me that says you're not setting the bar too high.
If you can see circular patterns, that seems to indicate he didn't properly finish it with the clear coat and that it came from his sanding on the outside of the lens. Not some sort of blemish on the inside. Could you see that pattern before he did the job?
I will say though, you can't expect an optically perfect lens when these are restored, but it usually makes enough of a dramatic improvement that it's worthwhile to do.
If you can see circular patterns, that seems to indicate he didn't properly finish it with the clear coat and that it came from his sanding on the outside of the lens. Not some sort of blemish on the inside. Could you see that pattern before he did the job?
I will say though, you can't expect an optically perfect lens when these are restored, but it usually makes enough of a dramatic improvement that it's worthwhile to do.
#7
If you are seeing circular patterns its possible he used a orbital buffer and left it on one spot to long and "burned" swirls into it as happens with paint, i would make him stand by his work if he keeps ducking you just put his business on blast online.
I am also a perfectionist but if you are paying someone to do something i expect it to be done correctly and flawlessly the first time or if they make a mistake offer to fix it free of charge, i know thats what i do with my detailing business, i **** up and miss something or brake something i fix it its just good business.
I am also a perfectionist but if you are paying someone to do something i expect it to be done correctly and flawlessly the first time or if they make a mistake offer to fix it free of charge, i know thats what i do with my detailing business, i **** up and miss something or brake something i fix it its just good business.
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#8
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
If you are seeing circular patterns its possible he used a orbital buffer and left it on one spot to long and "burned" swirls into it as happens with paint, i would make him stand by his work if he keeps ducking you just put his business on blast online.
I am also a perfectionist but if you are paying someone to do something i expect it to be done correctly and flawlessly the first time or if they make a mistake offer to fix it free of charge, i know thats what i do with my detailing business, i **** up and miss something or brake something i fix it its just good business.
I am also a perfectionist but if you are paying someone to do something i expect it to be done correctly and flawlessly the first time or if they make a mistake offer to fix it free of charge, i know thats what i do with my detailing business, i **** up and miss something or brake something i fix it its just good business.
Last edited by Bocatrip; 09-09-16 at 03:34 PM.
#9
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
It's tough to know the line between being someone being realistic or a perfectionist, but you said you used him before and you were happy, so to me that says you're not setting the bar too high.
If you can see circular patterns, that seems to indicate he didn't properly finish it with the clear coat and that it came from his sanding on the outside of the lens. Not some sort of blemish on the inside. Could you see that pattern before he did the job?
I will say though, you can't expect an optically perfect lens when these are restored, but it usually makes enough of a dramatic improvement that it's worthwhile to do.
If you can see circular patterns, that seems to indicate he didn't properly finish it with the clear coat and that it came from his sanding on the outside of the lens. Not some sort of blemish on the inside. Could you see that pattern before he did the job?
I will say though, you can't expect an optically perfect lens when these are restored, but it usually makes enough of a dramatic improvement that it's worthwhile to do.
#10
Pole Position
I just finished having my headlights restored by a professional headlight restoration company. I have used this company before. I inspected the headlights today in the direct sunlight. Yes, the clarity has improved 95% and from a distance or without direct sunlight they look great. However, in sunlight and very close inspection, I see what appears to be sporadic streak hazing in patches at different parts of the headlights. While most areas are absolutely perfect others has this hazing in what appears to be semi circle patches,( I don't have a better way to describe them) After doing some research on headlight forums, the info I'm getting is that this might be the hazing from the sanding marks left under the clear coat that was applied after sanding with what appeared to be 3 types of sandpaper. Anyone else experience this and am I being too particular? Should I have the job redone? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
From what you have described I would obtain an estimate for replacement headlamp assemblies and present to your restoration company with a demand letter.
For everyone else;
A link to my posting
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/828856-headlamp-restoration.html
Sylvania offers a high end do it yourself multi-step headlight restoration kit.
The kit offers a solution which first removes the oxidized UV coating WITHOUT applying a mechanical grinding wheel to the lens (!!)
Never use a mechanical device on plastic headlamps...it is not necessary.
The Sylvania kit provides several grades of wet-sanding paper and a final durable .UV coat.
A lot of crap restoration kits out there...and the auto parts store only wants to sell you what they have on the shelf.... DON'T listen to them...
Harder to find the Sylvania kit but well worth it
About $20 -25
#11
There are a lot of people who think they are headlight restoration experts.
From what you have described I would obtain an estimate for replacement headlamp assemblies and present to your restoration company with a demand letter.
For everyone else;
A link to my posting
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...storation.html
Sylvania offers a high end do it yourself multi-step headlight restoration kit.
The kit offers a solution which first removes the oxidized UV coating WITHOUT applying a mechanical grinding wheel to the lens (!!)
Never use a mechanical device on plastic headlamps...it is not necessary.
The Sylvania kit provides several grades of wet-sanding paper and a final durable .UV coat.
A lot of crap restoration kits out there...and the auto parts store only wants to sell you what they have on the shelf.... DON'T listen to them...
Harder to find the Sylvania kit but well worth it
About $20 -25
From what you have described I would obtain an estimate for replacement headlamp assemblies and present to your restoration company with a demand letter.
For everyone else;
A link to my posting
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...storation.html
Sylvania offers a high end do it yourself multi-step headlight restoration kit.
The kit offers a solution which first removes the oxidized UV coating WITHOUT applying a mechanical grinding wheel to the lens (!!)
Never use a mechanical device on plastic headlamps...it is not necessary.
The Sylvania kit provides several grades of wet-sanding paper and a final durable .UV coat.
A lot of crap restoration kits out there...and the auto parts store only wants to sell you what they have on the shelf.... DON'T listen to them...
Harder to find the Sylvania kit but well worth it
About $20 -25
Another big vote for the Sylvania kit, I've used on a few cars now. I've tried other plastic polishes and they just didn't do much.
I really think the key is the final clear coat sealer that comes with it. It fills in the imperfections. Might also be able to conceal some burned in swirl marks.
#12
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Another big vote for the Sylvania kit, I've used on a few cars now. I've tried other plastic polishes and they just didn't do much.
I really think the key is the final clear coat sealer that comes with it. It fills in the imperfections. Might also be able to conceal some burned in swirl marks.
I really think the key is the final clear coat sealer that comes with it. It fills in the imperfections. Might also be able to conceal some burned in swirl marks.
#13
Pole Position
If you let him, the headlight artist is probably going to attempt to remove the new UV clear coat with a mechanical device because they do not have the proper coating removal solution.....
If this had been done correctly in the first place, by hand, then no unnecessary moval of material....
If someone cannot get it right the first time, what assurances do you have they will care the second time...when they are not getting paid to redo substandard work??
Cut your losses and do it yourself with the Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit or have someone else help you using the Sylvania kit.
Post before and after images.
#14
Swirl marks suggest damaged lenses...beyond the ability of the new UV coating to compensate.
If you let him, the headlight artist is probably going to attempt to remove the new UV clear coat with a mechanical device because they do not have the proper coating removal solution.....
If this had been done correctly in the first place, by hand, then no unnecessary moval of material....
If someone cannot get it right the first time, what assurances do you have they will care the second time...when they are not getting paid to redo substandard work??
Cut your losses and do it yourself with the Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit or have someone else help you using the Sylvania kit.
Post before and after images.
If you let him, the headlight artist is probably going to attempt to remove the new UV clear coat with a mechanical device because they do not have the proper coating removal solution.....
If this had been done correctly in the first place, by hand, then no unnecessary moval of material....
If someone cannot get it right the first time, what assurances do you have they will care the second time...when they are not getting paid to redo substandard work??
Cut your losses and do it yourself with the Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit or have someone else help you using the Sylvania kit.
Post before and after images.
If you stand by your work admit your human and f-ed up and fix your mistake there shouldn't be a problem just dont bull**** and say you know how to do something them cause damage to someone else's property thats completely different then making a mistake. Just my opinion.
#15
Driver School Candidate
This is what I did on mine. Maybe you can just give it a try yourself. Its not hard at all and the outcome is worth it.
Headlights repair. You need wet/dry sand paper to start (800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit.), 2 spray bottles one with a little dish detergent and one with just plain water. Tape around the headlight (painters tape), and using the dish detergent spray bottle, spray the 800 grit sandpaper and headlight, begin sanding. Sand in a vertical motion and you will see this milky residue coming off the headlight. You want to sanding and spraying dish detergent water to keep the area wet. When you feel like all the yellowish residue is off, spray regular water on the headlight, and use a 100% terry cloth to wipe away the area. The headlight should look very dull and faded. If the headlight still needs work continue with 800. Next bring out the 1000 grit and do the same process but this time if you started horizontally then go vertically, each sand paper change switching to back and fourth. When sanding with 1000, 1500 and 2000 you will noticed the surface becomes really smooth. Ones that occurs you can move to the next sand paper size. When you are finished wipe the headlight dry and again the headlight will look super foggy. Take out the polish that you have ( I used Chemical Guys V36 cutting polish and V38 final polish, with a Porter Cable 7424 Orbital buffer using two different pads (Orange and Black). Use the V36 or whatever cutting polish you have (Meguairs and mothers will work fine), and start polishing (either hand or buffer. Once that is done you will notice the headlight will look brand new. Wipe away the rest when done with a 100% terry cloth. Next use your V38 or Final Polish, and do the same thing. (both of these do not need to be any particular direction on both these steps I use a circular motion on my orbital buffer. When complete wipe away the access once again an d get out your wax. I used Meguiars Gold Class Carnuba Plus Premium Wax Paste. Carnuba is the best for UV rays and the only kind I use. A really nice one to get by Chemical Guys is called Butter Wet Wax, but mine doesnt come in until Monday. Wipe off the headlight using a 100% terry cloth, and inspect your work. You should see a brand new headlight! Sorry I know this is long but that was the steps to take for this from start to completion. Took me roughly 1.5 hours for one headlight lol.
If you wanted to go one more step at the end off all of this dont use wax and you can either buy 2K Clear Coat in a Aerosol can or take them to a paint shop and have them clear coat the headlights. They will stay clear for as long as you have that vehicle.
Headlights repair. You need wet/dry sand paper to start (800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit.), 2 spray bottles one with a little dish detergent and one with just plain water. Tape around the headlight (painters tape), and using the dish detergent spray bottle, spray the 800 grit sandpaper and headlight, begin sanding. Sand in a vertical motion and you will see this milky residue coming off the headlight. You want to sanding and spraying dish detergent water to keep the area wet. When you feel like all the yellowish residue is off, spray regular water on the headlight, and use a 100% terry cloth to wipe away the area. The headlight should look very dull and faded. If the headlight still needs work continue with 800. Next bring out the 1000 grit and do the same process but this time if you started horizontally then go vertically, each sand paper change switching to back and fourth. When sanding with 1000, 1500 and 2000 you will noticed the surface becomes really smooth. Ones that occurs you can move to the next sand paper size. When you are finished wipe the headlight dry and again the headlight will look super foggy. Take out the polish that you have ( I used Chemical Guys V36 cutting polish and V38 final polish, with a Porter Cable 7424 Orbital buffer using two different pads (Orange and Black). Use the V36 or whatever cutting polish you have (Meguairs and mothers will work fine), and start polishing (either hand or buffer. Once that is done you will notice the headlight will look brand new. Wipe away the rest when done with a 100% terry cloth. Next use your V38 or Final Polish, and do the same thing. (both of these do not need to be any particular direction on both these steps I use a circular motion on my orbital buffer. When complete wipe away the access once again an d get out your wax. I used Meguiars Gold Class Carnuba Plus Premium Wax Paste. Carnuba is the best for UV rays and the only kind I use. A really nice one to get by Chemical Guys is called Butter Wet Wax, but mine doesnt come in until Monday. Wipe off the headlight using a 100% terry cloth, and inspect your work. You should see a brand new headlight! Sorry I know this is long but that was the steps to take for this from start to completion. Took me roughly 1.5 hours for one headlight lol.
If you wanted to go one more step at the end off all of this dont use wax and you can either buy 2K Clear Coat in a Aerosol can or take them to a paint shop and have them clear coat the headlights. They will stay clear for as long as you have that vehicle.