Most efficient way to wax the LS?
#1
Most efficient way to wax the LS?
Sounds like a simple enough goal -- bring out the best shine on our Mercury Metallic 06 LS. However, I've never really felt comfortable with waxing my cars. What I mean is, I've never felt confident that I'm doing it correctly. Should I go side-to-side, in circles, use or not use an orbital buffer and which brand buffer is best with what type of wax, and is wax enough or do I need a polisher too? There are just too many options/variables and too much information to sort through. I have searched the forum, watched YouTube videos, and looked at Meguiar's product videos but all that does is make my head spin.
Can someone please suggest a simple plan of action to get that "wet" look and bring out the paint's shine? The rainy season is about to start and that is another reason I want to learn how to properly apply a good coat of wax. Attempts to wax previous cars always left streaky results, possibly because I wasn't applying the right amount of wax or maybe I didn't remove it correctly or maybe I left the wax on too long. Who knows? Waxing a car is just not my forte. I also don't want to spend hours cleaning/waxing the car. When I was a teen, and first got my license, I had the luxury to spend three hours every weekend to wash and clean my beloved '91 Honda Accord LX 4-door. Now, between a career, wife's dental practice, 5-year-old daughter, and Master's program, I don't want to spend more than an hour every other week (or every month) to maintain the car's exterior. What simple regimen has worked for others? Thank you for all advice and tried-and-true product recommendations.
Can someone please suggest a simple plan of action to get that "wet" look and bring out the paint's shine? The rainy season is about to start and that is another reason I want to learn how to properly apply a good coat of wax. Attempts to wax previous cars always left streaky results, possibly because I wasn't applying the right amount of wax or maybe I didn't remove it correctly or maybe I left the wax on too long. Who knows? Waxing a car is just not my forte. I also don't want to spend hours cleaning/waxing the car. When I was a teen, and first got my license, I had the luxury to spend three hours every weekend to wash and clean my beloved '91 Honda Accord LX 4-door. Now, between a career, wife's dental practice, 5-year-old daughter, and Master's program, I don't want to spend more than an hour every other week (or every month) to maintain the car's exterior. What simple regimen has worked for others? Thank you for all advice and tried-and-true product recommendations.
#2
There is no short cut to the process. Every year, prior to Fall - I give the car a good long soaking bath in water. Get those bugs, that spot of grime all wet and soaked. Then I clay bar the whole car. Next is a soaking bath in shampoo and then a complete air dry. Following this is a Wet Polish and a wipe down. After this is a Carnauba wax application in sections and a hand towel based rotational waxing. After all of this, I clean the inner wheel wells, vaccum the interior, juice the seats up a little with some leather cleaner and conditioner and then clean under engine bay just a little. All of the above takes about 6-7 hours for me and I spread this out between two days over a weekend. Or maybe two weekends, if family time calls.
I haven't cared about a product name as much as caring about the yearly ritual being completed because the LS is my winter car. And hence stays outside in the elements for the whole of winter. Therefore, needs taken care of. But if you insist, I like the Meguiar line of products since they are readily available off the shelf from a nearby auto store. Chemical Guys also make good products.
I haven't cared about a product name as much as caring about the yearly ritual being completed because the LS is my winter car. And hence stays outside in the elements for the whole of winter. Therefore, needs taken care of. But if you insist, I like the Meguiar line of products since they are readily available off the shelf from a nearby auto store. Chemical Guys also make good products.
#3
There is no short cut to the process. Every year, prior to Fall - I give the car a good long soaking bath in water. Get those bugs, that spot of grime all wet and soaked. Then I clay bar the whole car. Next is a soaking bath in shampoo and then a complete air dry. Following this is a Wet Polish and a wipe down. After this is a Carnauba wax application in sections and a hand towel based rotational waxing. After all of this, I clean the inner wheel wells, vaccum the interior, juice the seats up a little with some leather cleaner and conditioner and then clean under engine bay just a little. All of the above takes about 6-7 hours for me and I spread this out between two days over a weekend. Or maybe two weekends, if family time calls.
I haven't cared about a product name as much as caring about the yearly ritual being completed because the LS is my winter car. And hence stays outside in the elements for the whole of winter. Therefore, needs taken care of. But if you insist, I like the Meguiar line of products since they are readily available off the shelf from a nearby auto store. Chemical Guys also make good products.
I haven't cared about a product name as much as caring about the yearly ritual being completed because the LS is my winter car. And hence stays outside in the elements for the whole of winter. Therefore, needs taken care of. But if you insist, I like the Meguiar line of products since they are readily available off the shelf from a nearby auto store. Chemical Guys also make good products.
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ermat (01-22-20)
#4
What can help is to use a D/A Polisher. such as Porter Cable, Griot's Garage, Meguiars, Rupes are some names you can look up they range from 80-400 depending on the brands. The Rupes would be a bit of an overkill, so any of the other brands are good to run on your paint without worrying about burning through. Also add a backing plate and some pads and it would simplify your process and save you some time with the waxing part.
Last edited by legend921; 10-07-16 at 08:16 AM.
#5
Thank you for the suggestions, takimanpgt. I hear ya about no shortcuts, just like having to put in the work to lose weight. Not trying to make excuses but I don't know if I have 6-7 hours....well, I could make the time if I sacrificed sleep but I'm hoping to avoid that level of commitment. I don't want to just pay a detailer because this is something I'd like to learn to do, and do well on my own. I haven't used an orbital buffer before but have been curious about it so maybe I'll pick one up from Amazon, grab a bottle of Meguiar's wax and work on my technique over a few sessions and see if the car starts looking better. If it doesn't look better then at least the wax should help protect against water spots and bug splatter. I tried the Meguiar's clay bar kit 10 years ago on my brand new 06 Tundra Double Cab at the time. That took so much time and I think I did it wrong because I started noticing scratches and swirls even on white paint. That really didn't give me too much hope/confidence with waxing but I need to get over it. The only way I'll gain better experience is to stop over-thinking it and just practice the technique more and not expect perfection at the beginning. Thanks again.
Amazon has pretty much everything. I'd start with the Chemical Guys products and add the buckets, grit strainer, mitt and call it well-equipped!
#6
Thank you, legend/takiman. I have the buckets, grit guard, wash mitts, microfiber towels, and have been using Optimum no water wash and wax in drought stricken California. The Optimum product works pretty well but it doesn't seem to offer protection for very long from water, dust, tree sap, and bird droppings. I will try one of those DA buffers and a harder wax in hopes of more durable protection from the elements. Greatly appreciate the info you both have shared.
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#8
#10
You don't always have to go through the full detail to get your paint looking good. If your paint is full of swirls, then I would definitely try to polish first. If you're not too concerned about swirl marks (not as noticeable on a silver car), then just give it a good wash and clay. Then apply something like the CarPro Hydro2. I guarantee you'll love it. It's quicker to apply than wax, slicker and adds much needed gloss. It offers 3 month protection but it's so easy to apply that you won't dread doing it. CarPro Reload offers better paint protection and lasts up to 6 months, but the application is similar to liquid wax. I suggest trying Hydro2 for the ease of application. Plus you can spray it onto the wheels, grill, and other parts with nooks and crannies.
If you're going through the troubles of polishing the whole car, think about adding some sort of paint coating. Most are durable enough that they'll last a minimum of 1 year (some 5+ years).
If you're going through the troubles of polishing the whole car, think about adding some sort of paint coating. Most are durable enough that they'll last a minimum of 1 year (some 5+ years).
#11
Check out my detailing notes at https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...g-process.html
You don't always have to go through the full detail to get your paint looking good. If your paint is full of swirls, then I would definitely try to polish first. If you're not too concerned about swirl marks (not as noticeable on a silver car), then just give it a good wash and clay. Then apply something like the CarPro Hydro2. I guarantee you'll love it. It's quicker to apply than wax, slicker and adds much needed gloss. It offers 3 month protection but it's so easy to apply that you won't dread doing it. CarPro Reload offers better paint protection and lasts up to 6 months, but the application is similar to liquid wax. I suggest trying Hydro2 for the ease of application. Plus you can spray it onto the wheels, grill, and other parts with nooks and crannies.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8y9SpNQRGc
If you're going through the troubles of polishing the whole car, think about adding some sort of paint coating. Most are durable enough that they'll last a minimum of 1 year (some 5+ years).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8y9SpNQRGc
If you're going through the troubles of polishing the whole car, think about adding some sort of paint coating. Most are durable enough that they'll last a minimum of 1 year (some 5+ years).
Thank you for all the tips and suggestions, fellas. Stan, that's one detailed write-up and your car is lucky to have you. Your commitment to car care is inspiring.
GSteg, the Hydro2 product is very interesting. I may try that out, not just out of ease but also out of curiosity too. It does mention not to use a combo wash/wax shampoo before applying Hydro2 so I'll make sure to get the non-wax version of Optimum. If Hydro2 doesn't produce the results I'm after then I'll invest in a DA buffer and make more time for a proper cleaning and a thick coat of wax. Thanks, everyone!
#12
my suggestions: big car so maybe do a section or 2 at a time. I wax the hood roof and trunk a lot more often than I do the sides. wax is best on the metal so try to avoid other surfaces like plastics and glass. save time. It is hard to get the car clean enough for wax, here dust will be setting before the car is dry. Forum has section on car washing and they all use 3 buckets and grit guards like you.lol
#13
You don't always have to go through the full detail to get your paint looking good. If your paint is full of swirls, then I would definitely try to polish first. If you're not too concerned about swirl marks (not as noticeable on a silver car), then just give it a good wash and clay. Then apply something like the CarPro Hydro2. I guarantee you'll love it. It's quicker to apply than wax, slicker and adds much needed gloss. It offers 3 month protection but it's so easy to apply that you won't dread doing it. CarPro Reload offers better paint protection and lasts up to 6 months, but the application is similar to liquid wax. I suggest trying Hydro2 for the ease of application. Plus you can spray it onto the wheels, grill, and other parts with nooks and crannies.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8y9SpNQRGc
If you're going through the troubles of polishing the whole car, think about adding some sort of paint coating. Most are durable enough that they'll last a minimum of 1 year (some 5+ years).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8y9SpNQRGc
If you're going through the troubles of polishing the whole car, think about adding some sort of paint coating. Most are durable enough that they'll last a minimum of 1 year (some 5+ years).
#14
I'm too lazy to wax an entire car, so I like to use optimum opti seal sealant. its a no buff sealant that takes maybe five minutes to cover an entire car.
http://www.optimumcarcare.com/oseal.php?li=4
http://www.optimumcarcare.com/oseal.php?li=4
#15
Funny when I was a grad student still driving junk cars, I dreamed of the day that I would have a car worthy of polishing, thinking I would enjoy it. Ditto with the lawn and garden, when I didn't own a house. Somehow, I never got interested in these activities, yet refuse to pay anyone to do it for me. I keep it simple and use Meguiars (somewhere along the line their marketing got to me) regular wax, and do this once per year. I don't plan on doing the LS430, it clearly beads water very well. I think it was detailed prior to me buying it.
My BMW is garaged, and also beads water well. I really shouldn't bother as it's gone only 1,500 miles over the last year, but I'll do it anyway. My wife's SUV is really big, and I hate doing that, but will do it anyway....I just wax, then buff it off.....no 3 stages or anything....
For leather, I've always used Zaino....people say it makes the car smell new....
My BMW is garaged, and also beads water well. I really shouldn't bother as it's gone only 1,500 miles over the last year, but I'll do it anyway. My wife's SUV is really big, and I hate doing that, but will do it anyway....I just wax, then buff it off.....no 3 stages or anything....
For leather, I've always used Zaino....people say it makes the car smell new....