I agree, most of the bolts are shoulder bolts and would make sense that they are used for the tensioner rather than full threaded as the holes are pass throughs.

So I just got a few texts from my friend, but no real response yet from the tech. I asked him to clear up the tech part as to if it's an employee from the shop or when he had the Toyota/Lexus guy come in and redo all the work. He is telling me that the Toyota/Lexus person did all the final work and was the one who would have done this (I think he is passing the blame). I do not see a need to remove and reinstall the tensioner if it was already put on. I believe I mentioned this earlier, but when I went to the dealer the first time and they "diagnosed" the noise to being the fuel injector, I was standing right there watching when they removed the engine cover and pointed out missing bracket bolts and hose clamps not reinstalled properly and telling me I was low on coolant. I took off the intake plenum and noticed the overflow cap was not even on (hence why I was smelling coolant), but he just attributed it to changing the thermostat and flushing the system as residual fluid spilling.

To make this short, I just basically said that after his shop's work (either his guys or the Toyota tech) I now have a problem with my motor. He has not responded to the text of me saying he is at fault pretty much.

 

Yes...... BUT...... I just looked on E Bay and found 6 used engines with under 60K miles on them for $1,200 and free shipping and a 90 day warranty. The labor from an independent shop to install it would run under $1000 so with the $200 savings from the cost of replacing a belt that may NOT fail, the actual extra cost is $800. In other words I pay $800 to delay until the engine destroys itself and the stories of 200K miles without failure seem to make that a viable bet. I think I will stop worrying about it for the next 10 years. And my peace of mind has no cost but an hours time in research!

 

Are those motors JDM? I'm not so sure I trust them, especially since there is emissions testing where I live. Emissions is tough enough on older straightforward Calif. emissioned cars. But, I can see saying forget about the timing belt, if you're looking to just drive the car as far as it will go and be done with it. It could very well go 180k without being changed, although someone mentioned the water pump weeping I think at 130k. It's not usually the belt, it's a component or seepage onto it that could cause a failure.

I can't see having respect for a motor and simply driving it to the point of failure, but that's me....I totally get having a plan B if something were to happen, though.

Just thought of an analogy--back in 2011, we spent $4k because our Lab got pneumonia. Spent 3 days in the hospital. A puppy is likely $1,200 at a pet shop, maybe $1,500 at a breeder. So why pay a nut like that?

 

I think to save yourself aggravation, don't wait anymore for this guy to make things right. BBB, Yelp, DMV. Even a new car dealer like BMW suddenly makes things right when the big bad BBB comes knocking, truly bizarre why it needs to get to that point....seemingly lack of integrity is not too uncommon in this business [which is why we should stick with someone good if we find them]....(my wife was like you can't take your car there anymore? I said no, they want me to take it there, I don't want to go there and let them touch my car ever again)

 

I'd be leery about JDM motors/trannies for another reason - the shaken inspection in Japan. It's on a sliding scale for a car's age - or a car will fail it because it's in ratty shape. The "30K" JDM motor is a lie - some of them will be in bad shape needing at the very least a new head gasket and valve stem seals. Worst scenario, you need to overhaul the motor due to low compression or rod knock/spun bearings.

 

This is my first used car that is not junk, after 3 new cars (still have all 3, but one will be retiring soon, the 1998 Maxima). So there was a "demarcation" point and getting to know it.

Within an hour of driving off the lot, driver door actuator does not work, and high mount lamp (7440) doesn't work, front cigarette 12V doesn't work, rear sunshade no workey. Nice one. The next day, I see there is no coolant in the reservoir, and the radiator is not even full, and the brakes pulsate (I was too gentle on the test drive). Great. Imagine how I felt at this point, I just paid $14,700 cash for this car.

Flash forward.....over the last 8,000 miles, however, I see it's reliable, etc. The dealer fixed the door actuator and redid the front brakes OEM, gratis. I did the coolant and brake fluid, then the timing belt so new coolant again. It takes a lot to feel comfortable with a car that one didn't buy new, at least for me. So I couldn't trust putting another motor in--those warranties won't cover the labor, and it's not surprising if it has to come in and out a few times.

I once got a used motor/tranny for $900 in my Volvo, in 1990. As they say, drove that cah just as far as we could, abandoned it out west...in 1998. So imho that one I was lucky on, 8 years out of a used motor. But, the person who put it in redid the top end--the fact that I bought it from him incl. the install, meant he ate the labor, and rebuilt when it wasn't as good as first thought. Get a motor on eBay, I can only imagine....just the back and forth will eat most of the warranty and will likely be a headache...imho with such a replacement, you want one price, where you have the warranty from the installer, parts and labor...my .02

 

Hi All,

Thanks for all of the great info on this thread! I am about to get a timing belt replaced on my 2005 Lexus CS430 (107K miles). I bought the car with 106K miles on it and the belt wasn't replaced at 90K scheduled maintenance.
Quick question, what is a good price to get the timing belt replaced with an Asian kit? Is $750 a fair price or should I shop around?

Jane G.

 

Jim, If I were in your shoes I wouldn't bother changing the belt either. Sounds like you've got plenty of cars around if this one ever breaks. Typically when a timing belt breaks its because of an issue with one of the bearings in the components that its driving, water pump, tensioner, idler, etc. I wouldn't be surprised if the timing system is designed to last at least twice what they recommended change interval is anyway...

 

Hi Jane, imho that is a fair price. In my case the dealer wanted $1,400, the indie $850 with the tensioner. Pretty sure again it's one of those things, at 90k the tensioner is often reused, but heck, it comes in the Aisin TKT-021 kit. If not doing the tensioner, then the kit is TKT-001. They had gotten me the TKT-001 and then added the tensioner. I recommend having the serpentine belt done as well, there's no extra labor and I think they got me for $30 (Bando 6PK2240). They told me I didn't need the thermostat and hoses (hope they're right, if I insisted they would have been glad to change them--I am afraid to see my engine temp change after a thermostat, just me). I would just ask point blank, "Are you familiar with the LS430?" And see what they say. My indie (owner) said you bet, we have done many, and I personally did my Tundra twice.

If you have the luxury of shopping around, I'd go by price and experience. We just don't seem to have any legit Japanese indies out here, one claimed to be and even has Lexus on his website, and then goes, "Nah, I don't see too many cars like yours." good luck!

 

Hi John,

Yeah I did ask him already if he said he works on Lexuses all of the time, all kinds. He and his wife actually own 2, although different models. I will ask him if the kit we were discussing includes a tensioner (I assumed it did!) and also ask about the serpentine belt as well. I also think the price per parts/labor is a bit higher out here in CA. My dad is in PA and says it's possible to get it done out there for cheaper.

Btw, the kit I saw on Ebay for $250 does include a tensioner and a serpentine belt in it, so perhaps that is why the difference in price, as some ppl on here say that I can find one for $150.

So much to learn! I am so glad we have these forums :-)

Jane

 

I truly can't even remember when I got interested in the LS430....I know I was in the back of my mind trying to identify a car that potentially is as reliable as a 1998 Maxima, and I found this forum. I left thinking the #1 problem on 2001-2006 LS' was the mirror wouldn't return to where it should after backing up, and mirror switches. Of course there are many more issues, totally missed the LCA bushing one....

Anyway I believe that you have a SC, the belt kit is identical, because the motor should be the same (3UZ-FE). But if I'm not mistaken, your motor mounts are different. I thought that the Aisin kit generally runs 1/2 the price of genuine Lexus, and that much of it is made by the same mfg., but not necessarily all (at the beginning of the post I looked at who made what came out of the car). Personally I feel confident with Aisin. I've used Gates on my Maxima but would prefer not to on the LS430. But I would likely use Gates hoses (Toyota OEM seems really expensive).

Not sure if your lower control arm bushings are the same, I doubt it? I'm not positive if yours would need attention, the SC'ers would know for sure....your indie sounds good and I think the price is also good. Prolly you guys have healthy competition in CA.....good luck!

 

02legend,
The noise you are hearing is from bent valves. An adjustment will do nothing to fix it unless their plan is to replace the head. The belt being backwards was just a fabrication on the techs part and will not cause what you are experiencing. The pulleys are very clearly marked right and left.


See the "R" and "L" stamped on their faces?
I think they tried to start the engine without pulling the pin on the tensioner to release it. This is why only one head is effected. When they tried to reinstall the tensioner that's when the bolt got stripped. After having both heads off of my LS I would recommend that the shop buy you a good used engine with a warranty and have then pay someone else to install it.

 

Pretty good analysis of what might have happened.....in this scenario, everything is reinstalled, covers, radiator, thermostat, hoses, right? It would just seem that $$$$$ flying out the window has already entered the shop owner's mind, that the job is at minimum being done 2X, in addition to figuring out what is wrong with the timing.....if this happened then it wasn't that they forgot to rotate into the maintenance position when the belt was taken off, right?

 

The "maintenance position" shown in the above pics is the spot where the valve spring pressure on the cam is balanced so they won't rotate. If the belt is removed in the wrong position the cams can rotate until it is physically stopped by a valve touching a piston. This won't cause the op's issue as valve spring pressure alone is not enough to bend the valves. What bends valves is contact with a moving piston due to incorrect timing. Even the starter has enough torque to bend valves when combined with the leverage of the crank.

 

It's certainly a bit less than the dealer - the local one(Lexus of Concord) charges $900 just for the timing belt without water pump. The Aisin kit is probably the best you can get outside of sourcing all OEM parts, it is OEM - the water pump is slightly different than the one Toyota now suppliers from the parts counter. Mitsuboshi belt, Koyo/NTN/Nachi idlers and NTN tensioner. Just make sure the shop knows what they are doing - I was about to send my parents to a highly-respected Japanese indie, they said they don't like working on higher end Lexii.

Make sure they use the right coolant(Toyota pink SLLC, Zerex Asian Vehicle will also work) and replace the drive belt - Gates, Bando or OEM belt only.