markwhit

My outside button has seemed to just stop working. Even if I have the smart key in my pocket or in the ignition when I hold it in it doesn't open the trunk anymore. I can open it while pushing the smart key button and the one under the dash. Is there a fuse or something for the button under the trunk lid to check?

Johnhav430

Seems like others have had the same issue, and here are instructions on testing....the person in the end had the switch replaced under warranty.

I will say that my BMW has "comfort access," and there has never been a time when using the fob failed. There have been times that the trunk did not work when pressing the switch--not because the switch was bad, but because of the approach to the vehicle, as if the fob has not been detected yet. My point is the fob always works when pressed, so it seems that detection, and pressing the buttons on the fob, are two different things.

Only because I have so many 2032 cells that I got from amazon when they were selling genuine ones for $2.xx per qty 4., I would change the battery even if it's known to be good (at 60 cents I won't even get the multimeter out, seriously)....good luck

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-button-2.html

NCUser

Since we are discussing trunk locking/unlocking, does LS430 trunk pop up or just unlock? when I use any of three trunk release buttons (dash, smart key or trunk), my car (trunk lock/unlock mechanism) makes two sounds. First sound to unlock and release, but after a second or two, there is another sound, which does nothing. Is this second sound supposed to push trunk up or something?

Edit: When I say two sounds, its not beeps. Its like gears running or cables releasing etc.

markwhit

Mine beeps, unlocks, and then pops up all within a few seconds.

Johnhav430

On all our cars, regardless of how the trunk is unlocked, it pops open, but NOT up. 2 of the cars have struts, one has arms and a torsion spring.

My wife's car, is a SUV, and when unlocked, the hatch opens all the way up unless it strikes an object. That not only has struts, but is motorized so an arm raises and lowers it. Based on the other thread, my gut feel is there is a good chance the switch is bad, because that was the Lexus' dealer's solution. Didn't really see any other conclusion from the thread. The possibilities are endless, and one can really spend time testing various scenarios. People here spend time testing and repairing tilt/telescope motors, mirror switches, door actuators, etc. It's great when you have the time to do so....likely even the dealer does not do that, they simply replace parts.

Bocatrip

Never touched that button since ownership over 7 years ago. It's very fragile and old. Only use the inside release. Not even sure if that button works on my 01.

NCUser

John, so the trunk does not completely open on its own. Like we walk up to the trunk, and just place our stuff inside and close trunk. It just pops up an inch or two after release? If the trunk does not completely open, I am wondering why the release mechanism makes a second noise after the initial release/pop-up.

jayclapp

My 04 UL only pops up about 1/8 inch after pushing the release button. When the trunk is then is lifted up after this, it makes a mechinical sound as the trunk catch is further disengaged.

Bocatrip

Just make sure you watch your fingers....especially when closing with the automatic actuator. It's easy to get your finger pinched under the lid when the actuator pulls the lid closed. Not a fun experience.

Johnhav430

True, the trunk just basically unlocks...if you think about it, would not seem the struts would be able to lift it open from being shut....although I thought growing up maybe my parents' Toyotas did that? Pretty sure they didn't have gas struts back then but some sort or spring....

I also notice that when I open the trunk with the switch on the trunk, my fob's red led blinks....the manual would likely reveal why...

Could the second noise be the trunk trying to close again?

Gronemus

Boca, how would you know if it's old and fragile if you haven't used it in over 7 years???

Bocatrip

There was a thread awhile ago on that very part which brought my attention to it. Mine looks weathered and dry. I would not be inclined to push on it.

MacroP

Hi,
Was just wondering if the OP found a solution to their issue as my recently aquired LS430 has the same problem. Both of my smart keys work fine when opening the doors. I have fired up Techstream and this tells me that my button is working. Inside button under dash works and so do both smart keys so it's not a big deal really. I found a cheap, near new, closer mechanism for cheap ($50 from a late model RX450 I think - same part number) and put that in but it has the same issue. The auto close-down function works fine too.

The only thing that I can think of now is that the RF module at the rear of the car is not functioning properly and detecting my key. Unforunately Techstream doesn't seem to have a utility to test each of the RF modules as to whether they detect the key in proximity. There seems to be 8 RF modules in total, 1 in eac door, 2 internal units and two inside the rear bumper/luggage area - one is used to stop you locking the key inside the trunk and the other, near the right rear tailight, is used to detect the key outside and to let you open with outside realease button.

MacroP

Update to my earlier post. Success. Got it all working now.

Edit: The previous owner had told me about this issue when I bought the car last month and that the local Lexus dealer had tried to fix it but could not find the issue. It had cost him a few hundred dollars for them to try too from the receipts I found in the glovebox.

An easy way to test if the rear external button is working with the lid down is to put your smart inside the trunk/boot area and close the lid - there's another receiver inside to detect the key is inside the the trunk/boot and assuming you have the spare handy just in case something goes wrong. If I manually closed the lid down then I could use the external button to open the lid verifying that was button was working fine. There was a constant buzzer going off from the car warning me something was wrong. I pushed the button and the lid rose. Handy feature to stop you locking the keys inside but I knew about this but never tried it until today. At this stage the external button wouldn't open the lid with the smart on the outside of the car (only when left on the inside of the truck/boot area) so I knew that there was something going on with the external receiver. The receiver is located near the rear tail light on the inside - it has a small antenna cable that pokes through to the rear bumper area.

I went ahead and looked at the rear RF module inside from the right rear tailight. There is actually two modules - a receiver and an oscillator. Was easy to find the issue in the end to be honest because I noticed a heap of corrosion on the module mounting brackets and some corrosion on a few connector pins. The repair was a bit harder though so I have pics below.

On closer inspection of some connectors 2 pins were completely missing/eroded from the corrosion. The PCB of the oscillator was also slightly corroded with a small circuit track completely gone. I cleaned it all up with alcohol and put in a small wire to replaced the missing PBC track. The same PCB had the corroded connector socket so I've have to run a new wire from the inside of the PCB to the external wiring to bypass the faulty pin. This was actually the +12v supply that powered the module - so this is why it wasn't working.

I'm letting the brackets soak overnight in some rust converter before giving them some cold galv spray before re-installing. Anyway the modules are all back inside (unmounted) and I've tidied up the wiring. Strange these modules had corrosion as the rest of the area and the car is rust free.

Hope that helps someone in the future. It was an intereting afternoon on my day off.

kos

iTrader: (1)

Nice fix mate, saved heaps of cash too I bet.