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Which fuse # for Trac Control & Rear Sunshade & Seat Temp Dial BACKLIGHTING?
Hey guys......I just thought I fixed my issue from probably a couple YEARS ago.
Yea a couple years ago, I assumed a blown fuse took out my front/main cigarette lighter outlet (no 12v out of it) AND ALSO the backlighting for the rear sunshade button, the heated/cooled seat buttons, and the Traction Control switch. There is no backlight for those buttons. I never realized no backlight until last summer when I wanted to turn on the cooled seat, but didn't know which way to rotate the button, because there was no backlight! I lived with this annoyance until 30 minutes ago....
WHILE STANDING ON MY HEAD and thinking of Jimi, I pulled the 15A fuse at location #32 at the passenger kickpanel, and it was blown! I replaced it and now my cigarette lighter is working again, however, the problem of no backlighting for those above mentioned switches still exists. Everything else on the car is good to go..
Which fuse # is for the seat temp control, the rear sunshade button and the traction control button backlights?
I have a ML, so no headlamp washers and no door closers. I thought FOR SURE fuse #32 was going to fix the cigarette lighter AND the backlighting of those 3 switches, but fuse #32 only fixed my cigarette lighter (the one where people made the mod to the storage bin). There's NO way all the bulbs on those switches are burned out. Don't even say a wiring issue/wiring harness because I've never had the dash apart. Ever!
Somehow, I knew you'd be the 1st to post RKW! Thank you....for making my eyes bleed and having to see a chiropractor now! lol.
So, on page 2 of the attachment, the 15 splice point (green cable) hits 1 side of the height control sw, absorber control sw, front cig lighter, ECT pattern, transmission control, trac control, seat heater etc. and the white+green hits the other side of those switches!? I don't have height control nor absorber control, but the others are EXACTLY my issue. Is that how you read it too? And they are all at SPILCE POINT #15!? WTF?! Am I reading it correctly? Is it possible the excess current through the wires of the CIG LIGHTER circuit that blew the 15A fuse melted/caused damage to those other wires? It would make sense because all those devices are not lighting, and they're all electrically the same potential.
I DO REMEMBER A QUICK ELECTRICAL BURN/MELT SMELL for several seconds when this happened (years ago), believe it or not!!!!! The cause of all of this, I think, was a small battery the size of a hearing aid battery FELL INTO the cigarette lighter socket, when the lighter portion wasn't inserted!!!....so, the battery fell all the way down into the cig outlet and obviously made contact with the + and ground. For weeks I never knew why I smelled that burning smell, until I went to use my cellphone car charger and it wouldn't sit properly in the socket. I look down at the socket and BAM----battery down inside the socket! Then the lightbulb (above my head) came on, and I simply lived without the cigarette lighter working.
What was I doing with a tiny hearing aide type battery rolling on the center console which eventually fell into the cigarette lighter receptacle?....I was driving to the drug store to buy replacement batteries for the internal laser sight of my Glock!!!
Last edited by LS430inDE.; 04-15-17 at 07:37 PM.
Reason: changed 15A to 15 splice point green cable
Mostly, it's the 7.5A fuse in the driver-side fuse box called "PANEL".
Just checked with tester----the 7.5A fuse at driver's side box in location labeled PANEL is good. I tested ALL the fuses except the very physical top row of the box. They are all good. The very top row is IMPOSSIBLE to test in-place, because the bracket/housing for the fusebox blocks anyone/anything from a reaching it. #TERRIBLE DESIGN (not many bad designs, but the housing enclosure/perimeter on this fusebox is simply bad, bad, bad!) OF COURSE one of the 7.5A fuses on that top row says.....GAUGES!
Since the 7.5A PANEL fuse is good, the next thing to look at is the splice point "I5"
, which is located in the center console (see sketch below). We need to test for power at "ILL+" and "ILL-".
Since the 7.5A PANEL fuse is good, the next thing to look at is the splice point "I5"
, which is located in the center console (see sketch below). We need to test for power at "ILL+" and "ILL-".
Yup. That was my original suspicion!!! Now, I'm getting "ILL"!
I'll deal with this another weekend. I'm driving my parents to North Jersey tomorrow (in the LS), for Easter with the relatives.
Thanks for your help so far, RKW, and Happy Easter to you and the rest of forum members.
04-15-17, 06:10 PM
Which fuse # for Trac Control & Rear Sunshade & Seat Temp Dial BACKLIGHTING?
